ByteStorm

Several springs in the CLK car had a sudden failure. Installed Billy shocks and Eibach springs on both front and back of the vehicle, and have seen positive performance since then.

https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/bosch/s5015/

I recently replaced mine with this particular one, which was an ideal match. It is rather simple to do on your own with a few fundamental tools, resulting in a significant improvement in the car's cranking performance. It is important to mention After driving 100 metres, the suspension and DSC warning lights that appeared earlier turned off. These vehicles exhibit peculiar behaviour when they detect low or no battery voltage.

The price was given in the low tens. The disparity between 10.999 and the low 10s is substantial. It involves more than just removing the spare wheel and interior. First, one reaches the 10s, and then proceeds to improve by half a second.

High single digits, rather optimistic.

Thank you for the guidance, I really value it. Fortunately, I will inspect it tomorrow. Fortunately, I am already proficient with a set of tools and I have a knack for quickly acquiring new skills. I will provide an update on the progress.

The vehicle in question is a 3-door manual hatchback with a petrol engine. It has a Euro 4 emission standard and a power output of 122 brake horsepower.

The car in question is a 116i model with a previous owner and partial service history. It is a 2008 model and has recently had maintenance, including an oil change, replacement of spark plugs, and a new rocker cover gasket. The seller is asking for a price of 1500. Given the little information available, purchasing this car may involve a significant risk. Additionally, I examined its MOT history and these are the cautions recorded at its last MOT. The rear sub-frame has experienced corrosion, but its structural integrity has not been significantly compromised (5.3.3 (b) (i)). The nearside rear tyre is significantly worn, close to the legal limit and worn on the edge, which exceeds the allowed limits. The text "(5.2.3 (e))" remains unchanged. The front suspension arm pin or bush on both the near side (n/s) and off side (o/s) is worn, but the wear does not cause excessive movement in the forward direction. 5.3.4 (a) (i)

Hello everyone, I am a 19-year-old individual interested in purchasing a BMW 1 Series. I have come across a 2008 model with a mileage of 150,000 km. Is it a worthwhile purchase?

Travelling 40,000 miles in heavy traffic is likely more unfavourable than doing 140,000 kilometres on major roads and highways.

The majority of the force required for the return action will come from the clutch mechanism rather than a spring specifically designed for returning. When a seal on a piston in one of the cylinders is damaged, fluid is able to circumvent it, resulting in an inconsistent return of the clutch pedal. The slave cylinder is located within the bell housing. Considering the workload and the car's age, it might be advisable to replace the clutch while the bell housing is removed.

From where did you make the purchase? If there is a defect, it should have been disclosed, and if the seller was aware of it but did not rectify it, they own the duty (in my opinion). Certainly, if it was obtained from authorised dealers or a reputable auto warehouse. It is essential for you to familiarise yourself with buyers' rights.

Mercedes-Benz no longer provides paper service history. Instead, they have been using digital service records for some years. If you trade in your automobile, all the receipts will be discarded. I agree that retaining paper documents might be appealing for sentimental reasons. Additionally, when selling an older vehicle, it is probable that the potential buyer will be of an older demographic, and hence more inclined to spend considerable time examining the comprehensive documentation, rather than scrutinising any underlying corrosion, oil leaks, or other potential issues. It is only adapting to current trends, similar to the shift away from paper bank statements or checks.

It is indeed a literal squandering of paper - I question the need of their existence altogether. Retaining them is only a customary practice, I suppose, albeit it is now devoid of purpose in contemporary times 🙂

Upon closer inspection, I have seen the presence of oil on the undertray. Initially, I mistakenly saw it as a gap in the moulding. I apologise for the confusion.

The first photo depicts a sensor that may be experiencing a little leakage. Not a significant task. I am uncertain about the objects I am seeing, save for the undertray seen in the second photo.

There are three comparable operating models available on auto trader priced between 12,000 and 13,000 dollars.

I am uncertain about the appropriate listing price.

The vehicle in question is a 2017 BMW 330d F31 with a mileage of 149,000 kilometres. M sport 20-inch 405 rep alloy wheels (just 6 months old) Complete leather garments The body work is in pristine condition, with no dents and just a few minor chips. The vehicle is equipped with a M sport front splitter, side skirts, and spoiler. The car is experiencing engine knock and is not operational. We are willing to purchase any automobile for the price of £3500. If I were to offer an item on eBay, what price range might I anticipate? Contemplating commencing the bidding process at a minimum of £3000, or alternatively, considering the option of listing the item as a classified advertisement with a fixed price? Additionally, are there any other platforms where I may advertise the automobile, other from "We Buy Any Car"?

I am certain that there is a member of the site from Jackson, TN who can direct you to a trustworthy and skilled independent professional. Absolutely avoid going to a dealer for any servicing work under any circumstances. Referring to them as thieves would be an affront to all criminals who possess a sense of self-respect. Remain hopeful. You have been well deceived and your budget should provide a substantial portion of the funds to solve the challenges they assert need attention.

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There was no ticking sound, which is often associated with a CV joint. However, the noise I heard, a grinding sound, did like that of a worn wheel bearing. I would remove one of the front wheels and inspect the brake callipers and pads to ensure they move smoothly and are not unduly worn, only for the sake of examination.

Disconnect the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) from your automobile and let it run for a few minutes without causing any damage. Afterward, proceed to check the error codes. Check whether the same code appears.

Thank you for your assistance, Mistral. There seemed to be a sense of terminality after today's journey. The car is now emitting oil from its exhaust system. We have made the decision to cease further expenditure on it and will shortly list it on eBay as a non-runner.