ByteStorm

I am uncertain about the appropriate listing price.

The vehicle in question is a 2017 BMW 330d F31 with a mileage of 149,000 kilometres. M sport 20-inch 405 rep alloy wheels (just 6 months old) Complete leather garments The body work is in pristine condition, with no dents and just a few minor chips. The vehicle is equipped with a M sport front splitter, side skirts, and spoiler. The car is experiencing engine knock and is not operational. We are willing to purchase any automobile for the price of £3500. If I were to offer an item on eBay, what price range might I anticipate? Contemplating commencing the bidding process at a minimum of £3000, or alternatively, considering the option of listing the item as a classified advertisement with a fixed price? Additionally, are there any other platforms where I may advertise the automobile, other from "We Buy Any Car"?

I am certain that there is a member of the site from Jackson, TN who can direct you to a trustworthy and skilled independent professional. Absolutely avoid going to a dealer for any servicing work under any circumstances. Referring to them as thieves would be an affront to all criminals who possess a sense of self-respect. Remain hopeful. You have been well deceived and your budget should provide a substantial portion of the funds to solve the challenges they assert need attention.

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There was no ticking sound, which is often associated with a CV joint. However, the noise I heard, a grinding sound, did like that of a worn wheel bearing. I would remove one of the front wheels and inspect the brake callipers and pads to ensure they move smoothly and are not unduly worn, only for the sake of examination.

Disconnect the Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) from your automobile and let it run for a few minutes without causing any damage. Afterward, proceed to check the error codes. Check whether the same code appears.

Thank you for your assistance, Mistral. There seemed to be a sense of terminality after today's journey. The car is now emitting oil from its exhaust system. We have made the decision to cease further expenditure on it and will shortly list it on eBay as a non-runner.

We will examine it. Conducted a smoke test today and saw significant leakage from the cam cover, with no indications of any other issues. Upon removal, the gaskets exhibited severe damage, displaying brittleness and a tendency to shatter upon removal. It seems that the inside components have been heated. After replacing all the gaskets and doing a brief test drive, the vehicle originally seemed satisfactory. However, as it reaches high temperatures, the issue of rough idle and stalling resurfaces. (PS - The chain guide was visually OK when we removed the lid today). However, I also encountered some new problems today. During a somewhat extended test drive, I had a misfire characterised by a substantial emission of white exhaust smoke. Additionally, the vehicle exhibited a decrease in power upon being pulled away after a prolonged period of driving. Tomorrow, I will re-examine the vehicle using a fault reader to see if any other issues have arisen. However, I have not observed any indications of engine warning lights.

It is quite likely that he uses an Autel MaxiSys device. I engaged in conversation with him earlier today, and we want to do a smoke test either tomorrow or Thursday in order to observe the results.

Although rather verbose, my daughter has a 2008 Mini One Auto equipped with a 1.4 (N12) engine. Everything was functioning well until last week when she arrived at a roundabout and the vehicle abruptly stopped moving (no problems or difficulties had occurred before this). In summary, I started the process by increasing the engine's speed at the beginning and successfully operated it to its destination (since she is a novice driver). While operating the vehicle, the power delivery seems to be within the expected range, devoid of any unpleasant sounds or excessive rev surges. However, upon halting the vehicle, the idle revs exhibit a lack of smoothness and appear to decrease slightly below the desired level. Consequently, the engine may attempt to abruptly cease its operation. The start-up process is as described before. Once the engine is heated, it requires a few revs to elevate the idle speed beyond its stuttering. After this, the engine will continue to operate smoothly until you cease. It consistently starts up on the first attempt, regardless of whether the engine's speed decreases and it stalls. Fortunately, I have a buddy who is skilled in mechanics, and we have made several attempts to address this issue, but have not achieved any success so far. Initially, it is seen that the engine management light remains inactive throughout the duration of the problem. Initially, there were two failure codes identified: one for the downstream oxygen sensor and another for mass air flow, which is a conceivable possibility. We initiated the resolution of several prevalent problems. We replaced the four coil packs, as they had not been replaced in the service history. We also examined the camshaft sensors and replaced the o2 sensor, which resolved the fault code. Additionally, we conducted a thorough search for vacuum leaks. Despite visual inspection, no damage was found. Furthermore, we applied a generous amount of brake cleaner and observed no change in the engine's rotational speed. Subsequently, we examined the throttle body. We believed we had identified the problem in this case, since the gasket had a little crimp. We successfully obtained a second-hand body and replaced both the body and gasket. The service history indicated that the body had been cleaned in 2019, suggesting that it may not have been properly reinstalled at that time. Upon replacing the aforementioned component, the Mass air flow error warning was thereafter eliminated. thereafter, we have operated the vehicle several times without any recurrence of the aforementioned message. We used the Service menu to reacquaint ourselves with the idle state after the replacement of items. Nevertheless, the engine continues to experience rough idle and stalling, despite the absence of any problem codes to investigate. I am inquiring if anybody has had a similar issue with a N12 engine and has any recommendations for other sources to explore. He has indicated that we should examine for any potential chain stretch, but we have not yet explored that possibility. I am interested in identifying any further common faults that may be contributing to the situation at hand.

No, the GT does not operate one. Perhaps not insignificant... I have not really researched the concept of a bung or return line. However, individuals have done this on many occasions on this platform.

Additional justification for doing the gearbox oil cooler removal when the appropriate moment arrives.

I believe that your alternator is approaching the end of its functional lifespan. When the engine is operating, the voltage should be about 14V.

Based on the mileage, totally synthetic oil will be effective for a period of 2 years.

Great!

The inside seems to be well-maintained, as seen above. Regarding the leak, it is advisable to inspect the windscreen seal and side window rubbers.

Bwchiptune, a sponsor of the website, will be able to assist you.

A decrease in cylinder compression may be attributed to either valve seat wear or valve gear failure, such as a broken valve spring. [The issue can be fixed, but it will likely require elevating the head.] If the engine has bore wear, piston ring fracture, or severe wear, repairing it would be uneconomical. Confirming this can be done using a Borescope, as previously indicated.

The instructions should specify the appropriate kind of oil to be used. Although my vehicle is not a BMW, I would suggest using Petronas Syntium or Petronas Selena 10W 60 as recommended. However, I have been using 10W 40 without experiencing any mechanical problems.

Overall, gasoline prices in most European nations are higher than in the UK. However, of the countries mentioned, Luxembourg stands out as the least costly by a significant margin. In June of this year, the price of Aral 102 in Germany reached as high as €2.20 a litre, whilst Shell V-Power 98 in Luxembourg was priced at €1.79 per litre.

Although I agree that the French autoroute road surfaces are among the most superior in Europe, it is regrettable that three decades ago, Belgian road surfaces were considered to be of low quality compared to UK standards. However, the situation has now reversed.

In my opinion, I would recommend travelling to Belgium and Luxembourg, with an overnight stay in either Clervaux or Vianden. From there, you can cross the border into Germany at Bitburg. I suggest refuelling your vehicle right before crossing the border to take advantage of the lower gasoline prices. The road network in Luxembourg is well-maintained and offers stunning views. Contact me via private message if you are interested in obtaining suggestions for reputable hotels that provide parking facilities.

Swillington

Engage in colloquial conversation with individuals in Mississippi and Massachusetts, I assure you. Favourites are not one of the peculiarities in our common language, OH - Favourites - you see 🙂 Spellcheckers may be frustrating. Sitha (located in close proximity to Leeds!)