TechWhiz

One side of the oil filter should connect to the main vacuum pipe nipple. Proceed to the pressure converter, located at the position indicated by the red circle in the image. The single turbo side operates at the same pressure as the converter.

This connector is intended for engines equipped with a DPF temperature sensor; however, some engines, like yours, do not possess this feature. Typically, 316 and 318d lack them. It will be equipped with an O2 sensor; I have yet to encounter an N47D20C without one. Positioned atop the vehicle's DPF unit, it connects via the auxiliary connector. Which hoover hoses? That age should possess only two vacuum pipes: one connecting the main vacuum pipe to the EGR cooler bypass pressure converter, and the other linking the converter to the bypass. Which EGR code has been generated?

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Regrettably, despite numerous additional efforts, I have made no progress. I reached the point when the ZLink app requested my phone's password, which I entered, but it failed to verify owing to a connection issue. Extremely exasperating. I am starting to suspect that the application is the issue.

By the way, how can I verify or modify the state of the 'Client' mode?

Thank you both; I will attempt it once more and see the outcome.

Greetings and thank you for your reply. Regrettably, I have undergone that surgery numerous times without success. My phone is erroneously identifying both the new screen and 'Range Rover Evoque' as linked devices, leaving me uncertain on which to utilise; furthermore, WiFi connectivity is not established on either device. Furthermore, the new screen is equipped with two USB cables that are now stored in the glove compartment, leaving me uncertain whether to utilise one of these or the vehicle's USB for a wired connection; nonetheless, they remain unresponsive. I have purchased a WiFi dongle that likewise fails to connect to the head unit. Frustration!

I have recently fitted a Chinese aftermarket infotainment screen in my 2018 SE Tech to enable Android Auto access and successfully paired my mobile phone over Bluetooth, providing audio services to my phone. Nevertheless, I am unable to establish a WiFi connection. I have attempted to adhere to the Android Auto connection guidelines within the application, consulted Google Gemini, and reviewed YouTube tutorials for assistance, yet none have advanced my progress. I can access the AA screen and several application logos, but upon selection, they attempt to open and then abruptly cease functioning due to a lack of connection. Does anyone else experience such issues or, preferably, a potential solution? Thank you

It may be one of those elements "if installed."

You have the option of a six-cylinder petrol engine or a V8 petrol engine.

Have you performed a VIN decode on a website such as Last VIN? This may provide the original specifications of the wheels.

Thank you; I will reach out to them. Initially, I presumed the starter motor was the issue.

I have a quick rattling or significant clicking noise upon starting the vehicle. Depress the clutch and activate the start button, then release. It occurs 7 out of 10 times. The car consistently starts. I am uncertain if there is a certain time sequence for starting, since I have never utilised a push-button start previously; I simply press the button and release it upon hearing the engine start, then release the clutch shortly thereafter. Current odometer reading: 58,000 miles I have a few months remaining on the warranty and will likely extend it once I ascertain the cost. My local BMW dealer has been quite helpful when I encountered an issue; a representative walked outside to inspect a part to verify its correctness. I do not anticipate complimentary troubleshooting, but they might be willing to lend an ear. Alternatively, one may choose to leave it operational for the time being. Thank you

I have just seen your article, and it seems to be straightforward. Uncertain as to why they would become unsynchronized—presumably due to cheap batteries?

Based on my recollection, it is: Sender Initialisation Mandatory, for instance, subsequent to the recent acquisition. of a crucial element. The new channel must be initialised prior to commissioning. One vehicle must have been activated via remote control. 1b If the car is not accessed via the remote control, a lock mechanism is activated, which resets after 15 minutes of the ignition being engaged. 2 Enter the vehicle and shut the driver's door. Activate the ignition keys in the steering wheel lock by briefly turning to position 1 and returning to position 0 three times (maximum duration of 5 seconds). Four Depress and maintain pressure on button 1 (refer to the image) on the transmitter. Press button 2 three times consecutively within 10 seconds, while maintaining pressure on button 1 during this duration. Release button 1 five times. The LED emits a gradual flash for a maximum duration of 10 seconds. The line that is absent is as follows: The central locking activates just when pressing one of the two buttons again. - 6 The central locking mechanism indicates the successful initialisation of the transmitter by locking and then promptly unlocking.

Both keys function well, unlocking the doors and boot via the remote. However, neither mechanism opens all windows and doors when activated for a few seconds using the remote. Inserting both keys into the driver's door and maintaining them in the open position will simultaneously open all windows and the sunroof. Inserting both keys into the driver's door and maintaining them in the lock position will shut all windows and the sunroof. They seem to be ineffective when pressing the Open button on the remote key fob. Both keys exhibit the same issue, leading me to speculate if it is a reprogramming problem. The alarm is functioning properly and as intended.

The sun had out, and as I approached the vehicle, I decided to use the old remote to lower all the windows and open the sunroof. I appreciate this function on our vintage vehicle. As is customary with the E31, there is nothing to report. Arrived at the vehicle, inserted the items, and everything is functioning, although it is not identical. Both keys were attempted, but neither functioned. Do you have any suggestions?

Traders factor in profit and preparation costs, so you won't get forecourt prices from them. Similarly, when selling privately, there's no warranty or comeback, so you won't get forecourt prices either. Based on what you're seeing advertised, I think the trade price you've been offered is about right.

From whence have the 24k offers originated, from traders/WBAC, or from private offers? Are the ones you have seen private sales or transactions conducted by traders?

I apologise, but I lack any history of corrosion checks. Regrettably, you have been deceived. One need to have considered an other dealership. I had just a partial service history, although the dealership failed to verify it.

Thank you for your enlightening comment. I recommend that you take your vehicle to the dealership, since I had a subframe problem that was resolved at no cost due to it being a manufacture flaw.

Thank you; please inform me.

Indeed, I have my foot firmly positioned on the brake pedal. I have not verified the ATF level, nor do I possess any documentation of prior servicing.

Greetings to everybody; I hope everyone is in good health. I get a pronounced clunking sound while transitioning from park to reverse. This issue occurs just while transitioning from park to reverse and exclusively when the vehicle is positioned on an incline. Is there a solution? 2011 Mercedes C-Class SE CDI BlueEfficiency Facelift with 7G-Tronic Plus transmission Thank you.

Was the rail changed subsequent to the pump failure or before to it?