TechWhiz

It is illogical. Everything was flawless, except for a malfunctioning pump. Currently, we have acquired new pumps and all the related equipment. However, it is necessary to attempt the cold start twice in order to successfully initiate the system. Recalling that we installed a new cold start injector a few months back just because we had one available in our inventory. Everything was functioning well prior to the replacement of the fuel pump patch. Thank you for your response.

This is for the M104.980 engine. The presence of a whining fuel pump and intermittent cut-outs, with the exception of one instance of stalling, led me to think that the fuel pump is deteriorating. However, the automobile was starting and operating flawlessly. Indeed, several individuals made remarks on the recently acquired vehicle with a mileage of almost half a million km. Therefore, we made the decision to completely replace all components, ranging from the tank strainer to the fuel conduit leading to the front. The equipment used includes Pierburg pumps, Bosch accumulator, MB filter, and all new hoses from MB. Following the visual inspection, we correctly positioned all the hoses, activated the ignition, and conducted a leak detection. There is no information available. Next, the engine is turned on, followed by a few efforts to start it, and eventually it runs smoothly. There are no leaks. Task completed. However.... The automobile requires two efforts to start when it is chilly. On the second try, it is precisely the same as before, happening instantly. Subsequently, the performance is as good as new. If anything, the acceleration is somewhat faster with the new pumps compared to the previous ones. What may be occurring in this situation? Furthermore, in the previous year, I successfully implemented a new fuel pressure regulator, which effectively resolved the issue of delayed ignition. Therefore, every component, ranging from the tank to the fuel distributor, has been replaced with new ones. The metering head/fuel distributor and injectors were replaced in 2017, and have only been used for 80,000 km since then. Perplexed! Are there any intelligent males with ideas? Additionally, we replaced the tank strainer with one from our inventory. However, this is the previous version, which is 33 years old, prior to my efforts to improve it:

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A quick Google search yielded this information....

Apologies, but my car's mileage now stands at 130,000 kilometres. The garage informed me that it may not be necessary to replace the Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF).

I attended a session where they informed me that I need a replacement clutch, but they neglected to mention anything about the dual mass flywheel (DMF). When I inquired, they surmised that I may just need a clutch. May I inquire if it is necessary to repair both components simultaneously or whether it suffices to only replace the faulty clutch?

It seems that you need a substitution for your clutch and dual mass flywheel (DMF). What is the current odometer reading of the car and has the clutch been replaced before? Where exactly is the vibration taking place?

My BMW 120d N47 with a manual gearbox is experiencing a lack of satisfaction when driving. The troubles I am now experiencing are as follows: excessive vibration, challenging or significant resistance while changing gears at high revolutions per minute, juddering when reversing, and high levels of vibration when the engine is idling. Can someone provide some illumination?

Unusual individuals. I always appreciate receiving comments on my vehicle or motorcycle, regardless of whether they are good or negative. Typically, this indicates that they have a similar nature and have a fascination with mechanical matters.

Purchasing a vehicle priced at £1500 is inherently risky. My vehicle, which cost £1700, has been excellent. However, I have had to replace the radiator, brake calliper, front discs, and a few bushes since I purchased it in March 2020. Despite these repairs, I now consider it a long-term possession. Despite my initial low expectations, I am really amazed by the exceptional condition of the steering, suspension, and overall performance, even after covering a distance of 130,000 kilometres. Acquire a high-quality item that brings you joy, obtain a substandard item and you haven't suffered a significant financial loss. This implies that the crucial factor to consider is the current level of quality. Does it provide a satisfactory sensation? Is there any urgent action required to address its condition? Which consumables seem to need imminent replacement, such as tyres, brake pads, oil, brake/clutch fluid, and so on.

It is remarkable how they function exactly as you describe - they should now operate much more smoothly.

There is a limited amount of oil available. The potential causes might be either faulty valve stem seals or worn piston rings. If the vehicle emits smoke after being idle at the lights or after a cold start, the likely cause would be faulty valve seals.

Those plugs are malfunctioning - drive a truck into the holes. Substitute with authentic plants. The engine is using a certain amount of oil - what is the rate of consumption?

Occasionally, the o ring gasket may get dislodged - attempt to repeat the process to see whether it resolves the issue.

Begin with playing swapnostics, since either the coil or plug may be the source of the problem. Attempt to transfer the ignition coil from cylinder 1 to cylinder 2 - does the misfire relocate? Attempt to switch the coil from cylinder 4 to cylinder 3 - does the misfire transfer to the new location? Attempt to manipulate each plug individually - if it exhibits movement, it indicates a faulty component. If no movement occurs, then the issue lies elsewhere, such as with the injector or DME.

Thank you for your recommendations. May I deplete my supply of KY jelly as I have never discovered a practical application for it?

The rubber seals around the windscreen, against which the top and door of my E350 convertible seal, are experiencing dryness and reduced flexibility. What are the opinions on the most effective lubricant and rubber restorative currently available? Thank you

Please contact me at [email protected].

As I plan an early Summer road vacation, I see that I have excess time to allocate in this particular section of the route. Apart from Pau and Lourdes, I am unfamiliar with any other town names. Does anybody know if there are any noteworthy places to make a stop? I had already contemplated the possibility of visiting Andorra, but after reading evaluations, it seems that the prospects are not favourable. We will be travelling from Carcassone to Costa Brava and then returning via La Rioja. However, it is important to note that there may be delays at the border between France and Spain along the shore.

I have successfully used a trickle charger on both batteries without encountering any problems.

Thank you. What is the suitable cost for bringing the strut to the garage for spring replacement?

The make and model of my automobile is a 2010 Mercedes E class 350 with a 3.0 V6 engine. The vehicle's MOT test resulted in a failure, mostly due to a fractured front coil spring. I purchased a new strut for £31.50, anticipating that it would be more cost-effective than hiring a garage to repair the spring. However, I discovered that the replacement strut is somewhat larger than the one that was originally installed in my vehicle. Consequently, I am now searching online once again, and it seems that I have located a similar replacement for about £70. I am currently contemplating hiring a garage to install a spring onto the existing strut. I do not need them to remove it from the car, as I have already done so myself and will be reattaching it. Could you please provide an estimate of how much it would cost for them to solely install the spring onto the strut? Alternatively, would it be more advisable for me to purchase a used replacement strut? Thank you.

Certain versions, like as my 2016 model, are equipped with a start/stop module in place of a traditional battery. I lack knowledge about which models possess certain features and the reasons behind them.

Interestingly, when I reset the codes on my vehicle, I was advised that if the issue reoccurs, I should switch off the ignition, wait for about a minute, and then start the vehicle again. Therefore, I am having the speed detectors replaced. My gearbox has been functioning perfectly once all the errors were cleared. Before that, it was experiencing the identical troubles as the initial poster. It seemed like the vehicle was stuck in 3rd gear and reverse was not engaging, along with other related problems. Consider exploring the codes and doing a reset to see if there is an other issue at play.

Were any unusual warning lights such as ABS or ESP shown on the dashboard? Occasionally, the speed detectors may need replacement and might result in the symptoms seen in the gear box. Quality service is always valuable. My vehicle is scheduled for a MOT and gearbox repair on Monday, along with the replacement of speed detection devices, which is how I became aware of the gearbox issue.