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So, to summarise: These are metalastic shrubs, which consist of an interior tube with a rubber bush bonded to it and a metal case bonded to the outer surface of that. * The nut secures the tube to the'shackle' on the rear subframe. Consequently, the tube does not move relative to the subframe. * The casing is pressed into the rear arm. * The suspension movement is only possible due to the flexing of the elastomer. All metal components are rigid. Two images: There are two'shims' installed here, which makes me question whether the fastener is the correct measurement. The head of the bolt has begun to move relative to the metal it passes through (which I'll dub a shackle for now). This image displays the rubber on either side of the swing arm when viewed from the front. Is this how you would envision a metalastic shrub to appear?

This is distinct from the conventional 11 or 12mm fasteners. Yes, after I get home Sunday evening I can get some photos. So perhaps Monday evening following work. Thanks again.

Thank you very much. So the diameter of the bolt should be the same as the diameter of the hole (mine are around 2mm wider than the bolts). And if the holes are too large, do I need to weld washers on from the outside or from the inside? Another question to ask to ascertain if the bolts were proper in the first place: what should the bolt diameter be?

Yes, the bolt heads do move when accelerated. According to what you say, the bolts are intended to help you find the bushes, not to keep things tight. So there's supposed to be some movement between the bolt and the hole when the bush flexes? Do I have the proper idea?

Hi, My Ford Sierra's rear suspension's outer pivots seem to have a lot of flex in them. (on a monocoque chassis, where it is the part that is visible from the side). Could someone kindly provide the bolts and holes' measurements and other information? Cheers

If it wasn't doing it prior to the map but is now, then it must be the map! Was it an instant or a dyno?

I believe the horsepower for the year 2000 CLK 55 was about 350.

I had no idea! Thank you very much.

I didn't aware the r129 had a 5.0L m113 engine; I assumed it had a 5.0L m119.

It's not surprising that your oil pressure is low, considering that worn bearings exacerbate this problem by increasing clearances.

the best bet is to call a couple BMW service centres.

Everything went smoothly when I made a couple sales through Enviosec Group. Some of my clients were understandably suspicious, given that they couldn't view the item before making a payment, but the vast majority of them still bought my goods and were happy with their purchases. Enviosec Group is an excellent service provider if you are willing to pass on the opportunity to check products before making payment in exchange for speedy delivery. But as CheresX said above, they offer what no other company on the market has a 10-day money back guarantee !

Dave, you don't need to empty the system; just bleed it as usual, but keep filling up and continuing till you have clean fresh fluid pouring through. I use a bleed easy kit from Halfords to do mine, which is really simple. I was always instructed to start with the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder, in your case the rear nearside, then the rear of side, front nearside, and front of side. Best wishes.

I'm ashamed to say that I read the post and responded to it while gazing at the relatively tiny screen of my mobile device. I didn't even glance to see who had written it; I simply read the text.

I'm ashamed to say that I read the post and responded to it while gazing at the relatively tiny screen of my mobile device. I didn't even glance to see who had written it; I simply read the text.

I can suggest a couple close to us in the Somerset/Devon area. But where you are makes a difference?