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BTW, the mileage is 109k.

Thank you in advance for your assistance. There was no drama, noise, vibration, or smells when the engine stopped, and I was doing around 60mph. Keeps the temperature from rising too high. Everything is in order with the oil and water levels. Ten minutes prior to this, the battery had no problems starting up. When I tried to turn it back on, it made the same clicking sound as a dead battery. The AA arrived just as the machine was about to be jumped; it was turning extremely slowly and drawing a massive current.Before, there were no problems with the vehicle's operation. Whether starting from a cold start or any other time, the cam chain makes absolutely no noise. In order to prevent the alternator, air compressor, steering pump, pulleys, and compressor from seizing, I intend to remove the serpentine belt as suggested. I am not an expert on Mercedes vehicles, but I am a good mechanic. If this were the case, I would have detected burning or screeching sounds coming from the belt. Even though I don't know much about the stop-start system, my suspicion is that the starter is faulty; however, I fail to understand how a faulty starter could ever cause the engine to stop running. I haven't been too concerned that the car's stop-start system has never worked. I coasted a little after applying a lot of pressure, and the only time I realised the engine had stopped was when I pressed the accelerator and saw no revs; there was no power loss. There was absolutely no indication of anything, and I have experienced catastrophic engine failure on multiple occasions. It abruptly ceased. There were no applicable codes when I used my merc-specific code reader on it. a handful pertaining to the instrument cluster's communication, but I fail to perceive any connection between the two. Absolutely nothing to do with engine timing or camshafts I would greatly appreciate it if someone with more direct experience in this area could provide some feedback and suggestions for fixing the problem.Although I am familiar with cars in general, I don't know much about this particular model. I will try to remove the belt, but it seems like a pain, so I think other checks would be better to do first. It has seized, and that is my worst nightmare. I am grateful.

Even if I can accomplish that, the auto speed adjustment feature will only alter the speed if the current speed is greater than the current limit.

I was wondering if there was a way to calibrate the speedo on a 24 GT Line to make it work with SCC. There is currently a 7% overreading.

The rev counter is going to be muffled to compensate for some volatility in the revs, so you can't rely on it. Find out what the real revs are with the use of an on-board diagnostic information (OBDII) device. Incorporate the Forscan app or software into your purchase. Follow the on-board diagnostics, a meter connected to the battery, an on-board diagnostics and information system (OBDII) tool, or a meter located in the car's electrical outlets to complete the test. Take every test.

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Consider taking a look here as well.

https://partsouq.com/

How is it? alternatively look for a VIN-based diagram

A set of conventional mini and low profile fuses is available. Verify the fuse in the fusebox from which you plan to piggyback, and you will not encounter any issues. 😉 solely due to the C-HR employing several fuse types

We hope this information is beneficial; please respond to tell us, allowing others to gain from it as well.

In the near run you could just buy a phone cradle and one of those £10 bluetooth adapters which allows you play audio through the FM radio. I assume you have a smart phone of some description?

Exercise utmost caution; I have undergone the removal of both to accommodate LED lamps.

A plastic trim removal tool to delicately disengage the plastic spring clip securing the lamp assembly to the roof.

Yes, that is correct

Not compliant with road regulations; imminent backlash anticipated.

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Indeed, there are moments when one regrets initiating the endeavor. The condition of my swirl flaps, however. Relieved that it is finally completed.

Resolved! Thoroughly cleaned them to the furthest degree. Number 2 remained unsealed. The copper wash was somewhat crushed—more than I am used to. Restored and adjusted one of the antique items.I am aware that I ought not do, but they have not been in there for an extended period since I performed the chains. Hermetically sealed…not a hint of a breach… Thank you for your response on the bolts; otherwise, I would have remained uncertain about my first thoughts on them. France, I am in route.

I was beginning to feel concerned about the non-genuine rocker cover. My consideration was alignment, and the clamps are positioned off the rocker, securing the bolts; if there were a millimeter of discrepancy, something may not be properly seated. I discovered some copper washers that are 0.5mm thicker, but I have not attempted to use them.

I do not own an airline but used a battery-operated blower. I will attempt to remove them with a paper towel while the bungs remain in the base. I am inclined to go with a bash instead of awaiting the bolts, since I may have overlooked something—an easy oversight, I suppose, after a day contending with the intake manifold, among other tasks. Copper washers should be OK since they have not undergone a heat cycle. Thank you for your feedback; it is much appreciated.

Indeed, it is quite clean; I purchased a bore and seat type tool. Subsequently, they were extinguished using bungs inserted into the orifice in the skull. Admittedly, the first impact seemed to reveal an illusion. I did not believe they were stretched, but I read that someone else had a similar issue and was advised to replace the bolts. I applied a torque of around 26 Nm, since my Sykes wrench is calibrated in increments of 5, but it did not seem sufficiently tight based on my expertise. I am used to using injectors in large cast iron heads that are very tight, using a 12-inch spanner.

Assistance required, please. I replaced my rocker cover and gasket over the weekend; however, I was unable to get a real part in time, so I opted for a non-genuine alternative. The engine ran well; but, after about one minute, the second injector began to leak. Dismantled, cleaned, and reassembled; everything is satisfactory. Subsequently, NO3 began to emit gas. All four were equipped with new washers and were cleaned anyway. I have now bought authentic bolts and copper washers. I was unaware that the bolts required replacement. Will the old bolts likely be the source of this issue? I have seen a message in the E series section indicating that O-rings may contribute to this issue. No O-rings are shown on the official OEM website. Am I missing anything evident, or should I just hope for the best as I re-clean all four fittings, install a fresh set of washers, and torque them with new bolts?