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Subsequent communication from an automotive electrician: According to his statement, the malfunctioning of the motor position sensors necessitated the installation of a new column. Nevertheless, his manipulation of the device has inadvertently activated one of the motors, namely the telescopic motor responsible for inward and outward movement, resulting in partial restoration of functionality. Based on my observation, it seems that the motors have been inactive for an extended period, necessitating a little movement to reach a pristine area on the commutator. This proposition may be regarded as a hypothesis. My subsequent objective will include attempting to access the up/down tilt motor and adjusting its rotation slightly in order to realign it with a suitable portion of the commutator. Would anybody happen to possess knowledge of a reliable instructional resource for this task, or have personal experience in its execution? I trust that this information will be beneficial to others. Thank you for your response.

It is informative to be aware of this. I want to see an auto electrician first to ensure the absence of any potential wiring, relay, or other related concerns. Subsequently, I will provide an update to potentially help others.

I have received an estimated cost of around £500 from a renowned Mercedes expert for the installation of a functional, pre-owned steering column. Does it seem acceptable or too high?

All directions exhibit an auditory click, but there is no corresponding physical displacement. I have attempted to use the steering wheel whacking method. However, the efforts were unsuccessful. I have scheduled an appointment for a Star scan in the near future, during which I shall ascertain if any pertinent findings are discovered. One potential positive aspect is that the absence of audible motor sounds suggests that there may not be any malfunction in the drive (presumedly). It is frustrating because I am unable to get the optimal position. It seems that the mechanism may be obstructed by the wheel when it reaches its highest point of movement. I appreciate the guidance provided.

Greetings, I appreciate the provided information. The lack of movement in both the tilt and reach mechanisms raises suspicions that the issue may not be solely due to being stuck. However, the presence of a clicking relay indicates the presence of power and maybe shows that the mechanism is really stuck. The absence of a motor spinning sound is indicative of the drive's functionality, suggesting that it is not damaged. I have attempted to use physical force and mass as potential solutions, although so far, my efforts have been unsuccessful. Perhaps the application of a spray lubricant to the gears might perhaps provide assistance in resolving the issue at hand. This aspect of the product proved to be somewhat bothersome, since it was the one feature that I neglected to evaluate before to making the purchase. The convenience mode has been disabled. Furthermore, it has been observed that the chairs in question had the ability to move, however they do not seem to possess the memory function. It remains uncertain if these two issues are interconnected.

Greetings, esteemed individuals. I kindly request your assistance. The electrically controlled tilt and reach adjustable steering wheel of my just acquired CLK500 is now non-functional. Upon using the buttons responsible for steering movement, I perceive an audible clicking sound, although I do not detect any accompanying motor noises or observable motion. According to available literature, it has been suggested that applying force to the steering wheel while simultaneously activating the corresponding directional button may potentially alleviate any motor-related issues. I am inquiring as to if there exists an independent fuse for this particular component. However, it does not seem to be included on the fuse list. Additional suggestions would be much welcomed. Thank you.

Our organization operates a diesel CLC200 CDi vehicle with an 08 model year, which has accumulated a mileage of 180,000 miles without encountering any problems. Both the engine and transmission have shown exceptional reliability, since no faults have been reported so far. It is advisable to attend many viewings, since the condition of the item is of utmost importance at its given age and price. The chassis code indicated for the vehicle in question is W209. Conducting a search on the video-sharing platform YouTube is likely to provide a selection of informative films pertaining to the purchase of automobiles, specifically addressing prevalent issues associated with this particular model.

If the offer still valid. I have made modifications to my US Audi A3 by installing 2009 facelift S3 bumpers and sideskirts. I am seeking a perspective of the posterior wheel enclosure. The objective of my inquiry is to get the S3 wheel well cloth insert in order to ensure a perfect fitment with my rear bumper. I kindly request your assistance.

A pleasant ride may be had with 18-inch tyres and a three-bar setup at all four corners.

Yes, it's distracting...Not very helpful - Definitely; what you and I would consider to be tailgating, JoeIf the typical driver sees the sign and examines what constitutes a safe following distance, they will likely conclude that the message does not apply to them. On the M6/M42, there are already information signs showing "Congestion" instead of "Keep left" on controlled portions. Use Hard Shoulder" although many motorists are hesitant or even refuse to use it. The great majority of motorists either don't see the signs or, if they do, choose to disregard them. Too much roadside signs and information may be to blame.

When we originally got ours, she was just as clingy, always complaining that the doors or windows were unlocked or open. Interestingly, the outcomes varied between the online app and the iPhone app. After a week, all of the 'assist' systems failed, and the automobile had to be sent to the shop. Everything was OK following a controller swap, but I still had to submit the faulty Mercedes Me reports and request a firmware upgrade. I have no clue whether anything was done, but since then, the news has been accurate. It could be more than a coincidence.

I anticipate that it will soon be feasible to determine whether the DPF has been removed by monitoring the black and smokey garbage that comes out of the exhaust! That is not the case when the DPF is installed. The MOT testing authorities are fully aware that individuals are attempting to magically remove their DPFs, and I believe they will discover a means to formally check soon long. In any case, best wishes.

If you are referring to the adapter, then the answer is affirmative; nevertheless, the adaptor services will be terminated within the next two months.

The first advertisement mentions 50,000 kilometers, whereas the second mentions 30,000 miles. However, the history of the MoT indicates that it had been driven for 40,000 miles when it was tested in January of 2023. Both advertisements have a smell of the cloven hoof about them.

As a helpful hint, I recommend keeping a pair of (very) short USB extension cables on hand to prevent having to stretch too far when plugging in your phone, flash drive, or other device. This also reduces the amount of stress placed on the socket.

This may be a £1,000 job, depending on the engine. At that age and miles, I'd just let it be. There is a 10-year/100,000-mile limit on most Fords. Why Vag should be any different is beyond me.

So, to summarise: These are metalastic shrubs, which consist of an interior tube with a rubber bush bonded to it and a metal case bonded to the outer surface of that. * The nut secures the tube to the'shackle' on the rear subframe. Consequently, the tube does not move relative to the subframe. * The casing is pressed into the rear arm. * The suspension movement is only possible due to the flexing of the elastomer. All metal components are rigid. Two images: There are two'shims' installed here, which makes me question whether the fastener is the correct measurement. The head of the bolt has begun to move relative to the metal it passes through (which I'll dub a shackle for now). This image displays the rubber on either side of the swing arm when viewed from the front. Is this how you would envision a metalastic shrub to appear?

This is distinct from the conventional 11 or 12mm fasteners. Yes, after I get home Sunday evening I can get some photos. So perhaps Monday evening following work. Thanks again.

Thank you very much. So the diameter of the bolt should be the same as the diameter of the hole (mine are around 2mm wider than the bolts). And if the holes are too large, do I need to weld washers on from the outside or from the inside? Another question to ask to ascertain if the bolts were proper in the first place: what should the bolt diameter be?

Yes, the bolt heads do move when accelerated. According to what you say, the bolts are intended to help you find the bushes, not to keep things tight. So there's supposed to be some movement between the bolt and the hole when the bush flexes? Do I have the proper idea?

Hi, My Ford Sierra's rear suspension's outer pivots seem to have a lot of flex in them. (on a monocoque chassis, where it is the part that is visible from the side). Could someone kindly provide the bolts and holes' measurements and other information? Cheers

If it wasn't doing it prior to the map but is now, then it must be the map! Was it an instant or a dyno?

I believe the horsepower for the year 2000 CLK 55 was about 350.

I had no idea! Thank you very much.

I didn't aware the r129 had a 5.0L m113 engine; I assumed it had a 5.0L m119.