Alex1978

Attempting to circumvent the drilling of the subfloor in order to avert any rust problems in the future.

Indeed, the plastic nut has been removed, and I have also seen the detachment of the stud, which is the metal component that protrudes from the floor.

Greetings, everyone. I am experiencing a bothersome sound under my vehicle. Upon inspecting the area beneath, I first believed it was a loose heat shield. However, I have since determined that one of the plastic undertray studs has fractured. Can a replacement be obtained? If the repair has to be done, the optimal course of action is to grind or flap the disc flat, use JB weld to secure it, and then apply an undercoat to cover it. This process concludes the repair. Are there any individuals who own the component number for the stud and plastic nut? Researched extensively but was unable to locate it. Thank you very much

Excellent work accomplished.

Yes, I will immediately verify my finances.

Now available: tamper-proof jubilees.

Thank you very much! I will attempt this over the weekend 🙂

Is "rear left" referring to the driver's side? It is inconvenient to get it to the store since it is around 45 minutes distant. Can I do this without removing the tyre and just by removing the cover? Can I also reach this section via the engine cover? Thank you Screwdriver_1

Thank you for all the feedback, everyone. The installer examined the top middle panel, confirmed all connections, but the camera is still not functioning. The parking sensors are malfunctioning. I am perplexed. Do I need to bring this to Audi to connect it to a computer? Assistance needed.

Thank you for the valuable information! Must the bumper be removed once more? If the procedure is straightforward, I can handle it myself rather than returning it to the installer, which is more time-consuming.

Hello everyone, After installing a Kline SS Valvetronic on my vehicle, the reverse camera stopped functioning. Tomorrow, I will contact the installer to discuss potential difficulties. I suspect that the camera cable may not be properly attached or there might be a software problem with the head unit. The Inconel remote is malfunctioning, and I am unsure of the cause. I welcome any recommendations. The sound quality is amazing, and I see no need to ever shut the valve. Grateful to Michel at Red Mist Racing for delivering exceptional service, competence, and patience! I want to provide footage of the start-up soon.

Does your vehicle have an automatic gearbox? They seem to do this more prominently than manuals, and if you incorrectly time the pedal gear by a little amount, it prompts you to change to neutral and/or start manually. I often deactivate the start/stop function and lane aid, or leave the air conditioning system on.

May I inquire about the specific component number of the cluster you possess?

I am willing to spend a higher price for a vehicle with low miles and fewer previous owners, provided that it has been well-maintained. The majority of these automobiles are second or third vehicles that are only utilised during the summer, making it very easy to discover a much superior option.

If there is an issue with the battery, I would recommend having it inspected, particularly the connections. It is important to note that the engine in question is the N57, not the M57. Weak battery symptoms can manifest as many error codes, similar to what you are seeing.

Well done, I am pleased with your performance. I have tried to provide you with the most valuable counsel derived from my own expertise.

Once again, could you please clarify the meaning of that? When there is a fuel pressure of 2 bar, gasoline will leak out in various places, creating the illusion of sufficient fuel pressure. However, the current power level is insufficient to sufficiently activate the High-Pressure Pump (HPP) and provide optimal rail pressure. Therefore, it is necessary to quantify it. A delivery pump with low power may still provide enough pressure, but it may not reach the desired level of effectiveness. Have you ever depressurized a tyre by releasing a Schrader valve at around 30 psi? It forcefully pushes your hand away. Three times the pressure is required to initiate the HPP system, which is crucial for its operation.

I am unaware of any diagnostic equipment that can definitively determine the failure of a high-pressure pump (HPP). I recommend that you thoroughly retrace your steps and conduct a comprehensive diagnostic from the very beginning. Alternatively, the garage may also be responsible. Is there a pressure gradient present in the tank during delivery? If the answer is affirmative, proceed. If not, then you are experiencing a problem with the gasoline pumps located within the tank. If the answer is affirmative, what is the magnitude of the rail pressure? The pressure should exceed 280 bar. If the answer is true, proceed and examine the injector leak off. If not, it is necessary to determine the cause and examine the rail pressure monitoring system to verify the accuracy of the data it provides. There is an evident oversight there. Every reputable shop should have a fuel pressure tester.

Based on the information provided in his profile, it can be inferred that he has an ML320CDI, which is most likely a W164 model. The crank pressure is inconsequential as the High-Pressure Pump (HPP) has previously been changed and the engine is still not starting. It is essential to first examine the fuel delivery pressure originating from the tank. The required pressure is 3.8-4.2 bar. If you do not possess it, it will not start even after an extended period of time. In my experience, every 642 I've seen that didn't start had worn injectors. Typically, they have misfires and emit smoke, but they consistently initiate.

Do you have information on the fuel delivery pressure from the tank to the high-pressure pump (HPP)? There are two methods for verifying this: using a gasoline pressure tester or using a Xentry machine. It seems that you are randomly replacing components without doing a thorough examination. The costliest and exasperating method of repairing an automobile.

Indeed, the delay of 20 or 30 seconds before being able to engage with the UI is bothersome.

Upon starting the vehicle, I am consistently required to acknowledge the user and safety warnings for the XCeed MY23 model. Is there a method to circumvent this procedure? Thank you in advance

I had a 2013 model that underwent a cosmetic update and a 2016 edition E220d, both equipped with a panoramic roof. I opted for the "C" class due to the need of having four doors. I have a strong nostalgia for the 207 mostly due to its aesthetic appeal. Both vehicles were equipped with 19" AMG alloys. Although I have considered returning to a coupe, the C238 model does not fully captivate my interest. I believe that the reduced panoramic roof detracts from the overall appearance, particularly in regards to the rear profile.

Here is a video showing the removal of the whole blower housing from an F07/F10. I am pleased that I saw this particular video, since it clearly demonstrates the precise placement of the blower resistor, which is located at the bottom of the fan housing. I was informed that it was located under the dashboard and would have required disassembling the lower section of the dashboard to access it. I regret not being aware of this information prior to my recent engagement in the task of replacing the fan over the weekend. Consolidating the task and completing it in its entirety with the arrival of the resistor next week would have been a time-saving measure for me. However, I am now capable of completing the task within a time frame of 30 to 40 minutes. This clearly demonstrates the significant profits that the thieves get from repairs.