dave783

I just updated my battery after almost a decade of use. Although it was still functioning well, it seemed precarious to rely on it given its advanced age. After carefully considering the options of OEM and Antigravity (lithium), I ultimately chose to remain with OEM. The Antigravity battery incurred a much higher cost, mostly due to its ability to provide weight reduction. I concluded that it lacked sufficient significance to warrant my attention. Furthermore, it would need replacing my CTEK charger with one that is compatible with lithium batteries. Considering the impressive lifespan of the previous OEM battery and the uncertainty surrounding the performance of lithium batteries, I made the decision to remain loyal to the OEM option. I had Audi do the task - the whole front trunk has to be disassembled, so while it is possible to do it yourself, it involves more inconvenience than I want. In addition, several individuals have had problems with electronic devices after the replacement of their batteries, such as malfunctions in windows, radios, and other components. Consequently, I surmised that it would be more convenient to have the dealer do the battery replacement. However, the cost was not low. The labour alone amounted to more than $600, while the battery itself cost $300.

Thank you, Mistral .

Thank you. I am currently located in West Yorkshire.

Greetings. I anticipate that I will correctly do the task. In 2022, I purchased a 318i Sport. The vehicle had a mileage of 67,000 miles. Over the last 2 years, I have only travelled a little distance owing to working remotely from home. I received no service when I was depending for CBS communications to appear. Received a drivetrain malfunction notification on the dashboard last week. Brought it to a nearby independent dealer. According to the diagnostic machine, they have determined that the turbo is malfunctioning. According to them, the vehicle is still operable. If possible, I will continue driving at a leisurely speed similar to that of Driving Miss Daisy, and I seldom go on motorways. I speculate that the reduced use of the automobile during the lockdown period has had a negative effect on its condition. However, I am now in the present situation and endeavouring not to criticise myself for any potential mistakes I may have made. The cost of replacing the turbo, including work, would amount to £2800. Currently, I need some comments about the viability of replacing the turbocharger. I am contemplating whether it would be more prudent to seek a second opinion or to dispose of the vehicle altogether.

Thank you. I have several photographs showcasing the bodywork, which is free from any corrosion. It is an exceptionally clean and well-maintained specimen.

Thank you for the responses. Just to clarify, I do not currently own the automobile, thus I am unable to do any inquiry at the moment. I was seeking reassurance that it did not seem unattractive. Clearly, I will never have a definitive understanding unless I am able to thoroughly examine the situation.

Thank you for responding. Hopefully, the issue will be resolved easily.

Thank you, ByteStorm. Hopefully, it is a straightforward task.

Greetings, gentlemen. Based only on these pictures, I would appreciate it if someone could provide a diagnosis or provide insight into the reason of this little leak, as well as the likelihood of it being a cost-effective and straightforward repair. Just to provide some background, this is in reference to a BMW E90 330i. Thank you!

Does the issue reoccur if you clear it?v

oh dear how sad never mind - Google Search

Update - the P0174 error code persists even after driving with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor disconnected. Does anybody have any insight on what will happen next? Is the issue caused by a defective injector or a clogged fuel filter? Can checking gasoline pressure determine if the fuel filter is obstructed or not?

Thank you for your response. Will disconnecting the MAF sensor result in the generation of further error codes, since the vehicle will be unable to measure the air intake? If the code does not display, it might be inferred that the sensor is defective. Is it advisable to reset the error codes before driving or should I retain the data and just let the vehicle idle?

Greetings, members of the forum, I have lately obtained a 2007 325i e92. The check engine light illuminated with the diagnostic trouble code P0174, then faded and reappeared, consistently indicating the same code. I brought it to a BMW expert who used an Autologic reader to get the codes. The diagnostic scan revealed two codes: 29E0 for mixture control and 29E1 for mixture control 2. I requested him to do a smoke test, which he successfully carried out, revealing the absence of any hoover leaks. I requested him to inspect the MAF, and he informed me that it seemed to have been recently changed. However, he expressed concern that it may be a low-quality replacement purchased from Ebay. He is now uncertain about the nature of the problem. The questions I have are as follows: What are the recommended subsequent actions for replacing the 02 sensor? Could the inexpensive MAF replacement performed by the prior owner be a potential cause of the problem? Have you examined the gasoline filter, pump, and injectors? (There was a substantial amount of dirt present around the fuel cap) I am wondering why I am receiving just one lean bank code when my technician is detecting both of them? Thank you for your time and guidance. 🙂

I acquired Dunlop bags at a favourable cost. It has been observed that Arnott bags are often endorsed by individuals. However, while initiating contact with the company, I saw a receptionist who displayed a high degree of rudeness. Given this behaviour, it is reasonable to question the quality of service that may be provided subsequent to a purchase. In my opinion, the inclusion of Dunlop bags as standard equipment in Range Rovers is satisfactory to me.

I am now located in North London. I would much welcome assistance from someone.

Regrettably, I am unable to use Ista, since it seems to be only compatible with personal computers, but I exclusively utilise Mac machines. Are there any diagnostic tools that are compatible with Mac computers? Thank you.

It is evident that there are two sensors. The rear is descending on both sides. I did not anticipate the simultaneous failure of both, or am I missing something? May I request a recommendation for a workshop handbook that is compatible with Mac operating systems?

Thank you for your reply. However, upon closer examination of my first post, you will see that I have previously replaced the solenoid valve, which seems to be a prevalent issue.

Greetings, everybody. I own a 2016 BMW 520D F11 with a mileage of 47,000 kilometres. Thus far, it has been almost devoid of any notable occurrences. Several weeks ago, the back of the vehicle began to slant downwards on both sides. Upon removing the compressor, it was seen that the inside was damp. I tidied it and returned it, but it had no impact. Subsequently, the solenoid valve and valve block were replaced, with no significant variation.I have conducted an examination of the relay, which seems to be functioning OK. The air bags were sprayed with soapy water, and a thorough inspection of all lines and connections revealed the absence of any leaks. The occurrence of the fault is sporadic. Occasionally, the automobile operates well for a few days, but on other instances, it begins to stoop when left alone for a few hours. Upon entering and starting the vehicle, one may perceive the operation of the compressor, which continues until the suspension has been fully elevated and the driving experience is deemed satisfactory. There is an absence of warning messages. Only the ECU remains to be examined. I am considering inspecting the connector, but I would want to clarify whether if I remove it for cleaning purposes and then rejoin it, I would need to reestablish its connection with the automobile. Are there any other suggestions on the cause of the fault? I have seen that several individuals on the site are expressing dissatisfaction over the air suspension system on the 5 series BMW, which seems to be the model's weakest point. We would much appreciate any assistance.

Every March, I make a trip to Illinois to maintain my cars and ensure they are prepared for the next year. I engage in this activity irrespective of the distance covered.

Really? $67?! Could you kindly provide me with the link?

Upon visiting the ECS website, I discovered an alternative collection of sensors that are purportedly suitable for an E72. I have sent an email to them in order to confirm compatibility.

Thank you for the information. I had doubts regarding the programming aspect of the sensor since the description said that it is compatible with several devices and would need programming. I will simply request the tyre shop to mount the tyres onto the wheels during the process of switching to winter tyres, and thereafter go on an extensive journey. If the devices continue to fail to register, then I would have to resort to seeking assistance from a professional shop to programme them, I presume.

I own a 2010 X6 activehybrid that is specifically designed for the US market. The original 19-inch wheels were equipped with sensors, however after replacing them with aftermarket wheels, a yellow warning light appeared on the dashboard. The wheels I now own are imitations. Is there a method to ascertain if these wheels are capable of accommodating sensors?