Mistral

Thank you both. I am uncertain whether any drain was pursued or really identified. I cannot visit Mercedes-Benz dealers as they are untrustworthy individuals whom I cannot believe under any circumstances; they may convey anything to me, and fact have done so previously. Is there a second battery available?

S320, 2018, 32,000 kilometres I would greatly appreciate any assistance or advice, as I am at my wit's end. In recent months, I have encountered recurrent battery depletion when the automobile is not operated for a few days. Completely unresponsive, and on one occasion, it entirely reset the SRS system, resulting in a persistent error message necessitating a reset. I am driving significantly less than I previously did for different reasons; at times, I may not drive for several days and then only for approximately 30 minutes. During the last servicing three months ago, I had the battery replaced, since the technician indicated it was the 'large battery' and the cost was £250, which I accepted. Within a week, the issue reemerged, with the vehicle struggling to start—repeatedly cranking, electrical systems malfunctioning, and ultimately 'catching' at the last moment. It operates adequately until the subsequent occasion. Consulted a reputable auto electrician regarding the vehicle; his recommendation was to 'increase its usage.' I left the car unused for seven days lately; it started successfully the first time but failed to start the following morning. I have acquired a Ring Ultraboost 1500 Jump Starter, which functions exceptionally well and has successfully started the car four times when required. The battery was depleted after being left for 24 hours with a Mercedes-Benz dealer for air conditioning maintenance. I remained in the vehicle for 50 minutes utilising the Comand system with the engine off, received a warning to activate the engine, and, naturally, it failed to start. I receive notifications from the Mercedes Me app indicating that "the charge level of your vehicle's starter battery is critical" and "12V battery is very low." Therefore... 1. Is there an additional battery that requires replacement? My internet enquiries have yielded inconclusive results. 2. Can anyone provide any insights? I am quite exasperated; I cherish my automobile yet am losing confidence in it, which is somewhat frustrating. Any ideas or suggestions would be much appreciated.

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They appear satisfactory, my friend. BMW has issued a preventative solution for mushrooming. If you are maintaining the E46 aesthetic, consider that they are inexpensive and consist of a pair of plates positioned between the turret tips and the bolts (similar to a strut brace, but lacking the central brace that connects the two).

Once all components have been replaced, including bushings and strut top mounts, my subsequent recommendation for an E46 would be to verify the absence of mushrooming on either strut tower, as this could elucidate the pronounced knocking on one side.

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The warning is currently absent.

Will it continue to operate effectively despite the spun bearings? Do you not believe that the servicing on Friday will be beneficial?

The oil level is adequate; nevertheless, the oil appears excessively dark and thin, suggesting it has not been changed for an extended period. A service appointment is scheduled for Friday.

I seek advice regarding a recent experience. I undertook a 240-mile journey, and five miles from home, the low oil pressure warning illuminated on the dashboard for ten seconds before extinguishing. The vehicle continued to operate normally without any unusual noises. This morning, it is functioning without any warning lights. I lack service history for the car, so I am unaware of the last service date. I plan to change the oil and filter today.

Are you referring to the wastegate actuators? Indeed, both are calibrated within a tolerance of +/-0.5mm when the service function is executed, and both exhibit visible movement when actuated through Ista. They appear to be fluid rather than abrupt. This is also evident when the ignition is activated, as they cycle, correct?

Are you referring to the wastegate actuators? Indeed, both are calibrated within a tolerance of +/-0.5mm when the service function is executed, and both exhibit visible movement when actuated through Ista. They appear to be fluid rather than abrupt. This is also evident when the ignition is activated, as they undergo a cycling process, correct?

Boost is regulated using electronic wastegate actuators controlled by the DME, without the use of external diverter valves or boost control solenoids, unlike previous engines, to my knowledge.

Hello everyone, I am seeking assistance as I am perplexed and uncertain about the next steps with my vehicle. Replaced turbos, charge cooler with new OEM components, charge pipes and J-pipe; the issue was equally evident with the previous hardware. The vehicle is experiencing underboost in the low RPM range, and smoke tests have revealed no leaks. The vehicle exhibits no fault codes, which exacerbates the frustration. Any alternative perspectives or suggestions would be appreciated. The attached log is a WOT pull in third gear in sport+ mode, with traction control disabled. The vehicle has a 50,000-mile competition history, has never been mapped, and has only had a software upgrade in 2019. The oil pressure is satisfactory; nevertheless, it was not documented in this log.

Upon removal, it had the orange seals, which have subsequently been replaced with the purple ones. The most intriguing discovery was that the EGR flap, which links to the throttle body, was completely obstructed. The aperture intended to measure around 2 inches by 1 inch was entirely obscured by a 10mm thick layer of carbon accumulation. I was astonished that an EGR problem flag did not appear. Everything has been meticulously cleaned, and all seals have been replaced.

Thank you, the vehicle was inexpensive to acquire at the time due to its Euro 5 engine. I have spent more on achieving accuracy than the cost of the car. The oil cooler seals were deteriorated, resulting in significant leakage.

And that is without effort, since I completed all the job!

The genuine expense of owning a Mercedes is substantial, although it is well justified.

All components, including the intake manifolds, throttle body, EGR flap, and EGR valve, were thoroughly cleaned, with all seals changed and a comprehensive service conducted simultaneously. I replaced all front-end suspension arms, shocks, and springs, both front and rear. I am meticulous about the performance of my Mercedes. Although it operates flawlessly, I have yet to repair the rear subframe bushes and arms, indicating more maintenance is required. I am now relishing the ability to operate the automobile proficiently, and it is an incredible powerhouse! I intended to do a gearbox service as well; but, after receiving an estimate from PCS, it is not justifiable due to their very reasonable pricing. Therefore, I will be scheduling an appointment soon. I developed a spreadsheet to monitor my expenses and completed tasks, as well as those remaining; all indicators are green, indicating satisfactory progress.

Greetings, I acquired a 2011 E350 CDI coupe in February of this year. It is equipped with the 265bhp OM642 engine. The vehicle had defects at the time of purchase, which I shall detail. Since I do my own work, this was not a concern, since I intended to perform a comprehensive suspension overhaul and undertake any necessary preemptive maintenance and repairs, consistent with my approach to previous Mercedes vehicles I have had. The EML light illuminated, and the vehicle entered limp mode after five minutes of operation. The engine temperature gauge was not reaching the appropriate temperature. Audible knocking sound emanating from the front end Vibration in the vehicle while navigating gentle curves at highway speed Vibration when braking Ambiguous, imprecise, and unstable sensation while navigating gentle curves at highway velocity. General unease when operating a vehicle Petroleum discharge Substantial oil usage Upon bringing it home and connecting it, the DPF seemed to be the source of the problem, namely, it was obstructed. I changed the thermostat, believing it would be inhibiting the car's regeneration process due to inadequate temperature; however, this did not cure the DPF problem, although the temperature gauge now functions properly. I then examined the DPF sensor data, which seemed to be functioning properly. I replaced the sensor with an authentic one, since the previous component was aftermarket; however, this was not the issue, as the pressure and soot levels remained elevated, preventing regeneration. During the sensor replacement, I applied a cleaner to the DPF and idled the engine for 15 minutes. A subsequent inspection revealed a significant reduction in pressure. However, two minutes into a test drive, I observed an increase in RPM at idle, accompanied by substantial smoke and the odour of burning rubber. Result! The automobile was autonomously regenerating, and concurrently, the engine management light extinguished. The automobile now operated efficiently in terms of the engine, so I began gathering all the components for the further work I had planned. Upon commencing the oil cooler seal repair, it became evident that the turbocharger was compromised upon removal, which, if overlooked, could have resulted in catastrophic engine failure. The vehicle operated normally without discernible smoke; however, it did emit smoke during regeneration intermittently, which I attributed to oil leaking from the oil cooler. In reality, the smoke originated from oil leaking from the rear of the turbocharger onto the diesel particulate filter, and the intake wa I have had many OM642 vehicles, and my current one, with 230,000 miles, continues to perform reliably at 800 miles per week, which has left me perplexed by the reports of frequent failures in the later model engines. Could the DPF be responsible for their demise, given what occurred with mine? The failure of my turbo was attributable to a clogged DPF, which permitted an accumulation of excessive heat and pressure at the rear of the turbo, resulting in seal rupture. All pipes connected to the rear of the turbo exhibited indications of elevated heat via discolouration. All tasks have been completed, and the vehicle operates well; all intakes have been cleaned.

https://www.omnicalculator.com/everyday-life/rpm

Edit: This may be useful, RPM Calculator - RPM to MPH

https://astradecarsales.co.uk/kia_picanto_1.0_2_-id8627-.htm