Motoman

I had just returned from the mechanic and received some extremely unfavourable news. They attempted to physically spin the engineer by hand, but were unsuccessful. Engine breakdown is suspected. Uncertain about the course of action I should take.

Hello everyone Yesterday, my Range Rover Sport's engine stalled when I was on the motorway. Fortunately, I was able to pull over to the side of the road. The engine is currently not starting. Indicator lights illuminate on the dashboard and a clicking noise is heard, but no further action occurs. Today, I had it hauled to a nearby mechanic for inspection. Has anybody else had this issue? I am puzzled as to why it suddenly stopped when I was driving. No caution indicators illuminated. Thank you in advance

I plan to capture photographs upon doing a thorough examination of the matter, with the intention of visually depicting the problem. Additionally, if feasible, I will include photographs showcasing the remedy that has been implemented. However, I anticipate that after the liners are taken out, the whole arches of the 4 wheel cavities will need to be subjected to: Perform a thorough cleaning with a powerful and effective degreaser, such as Bilt Hamber - Surfex HD;After applying the degreaser, the surface was thoroughly cleaned using a steamer.If there is any free rust, it must be removed by brushing it off with a firm brass brush, followed by steam-rinsing and allowing it to dry. Apply rust converter and wait till it is fully cured and completely dry...Apply a rush inhibiting primer and paint, preferably a 2-in-1 product, to the surface. Finally, use DINITROL to thoroughly coat the inner arch lip fold, ensuring that it remains in its original configuration as provided by Mercedes. The wheel arch liners: Thoroughly clean both sides of each liner using the same degreaser, namely Bilt Hamber - Surfex HD, as I am familiar with it. I use it for pre-cleaning the engine bay before doing a detailed cleaning.Rinse the liners using a steamer on both sides of each liner and allow them to dry.Apply an appropriate substance, such as ACF50, to the exterior surface of the liners, namely the side that faces the wheel arch cavity.Reinstall the liners.The user did not provide any text. The technique should enable me to measure the extent of the space between the liner and the exposed wheel arch, as well as determine if there are any delicate components affixed to the exposed wheel arch or whether it is only composed of metal. Another inquiry pertains to the presence of a drainage aperture located at the rear end, on both sides of the suspension sub-assemblies, which allows for the passage of liquid between the liner and the wheel arch. If present, it could be feasible to use a conventional hose pressure sprayer to expel any foreign particles that enter the crevice, since they would hypothetically pass through to the rear. Undoubtedly, it will be disorderly.

Having considered it, I agree with your viewpoint. Therefore, it is necessary to examine the configuration of the wheel arch. I haven't really examined the matter, hence I lack knowledge on the subject. What I am aware of is that the liner is distinct from the coachwork wheel arch panel, which has an upward-folded inner lip on the arch. The crevice allows for the accumulation of mud, which remains moist.

There must be a method to prevent moist mud, salt, and road debris from being trapped between the liner and the wheel arch. In my honest view, the design is problematic due to the presence of a gap that is sufficiently wide to allow wet material to enter, but too small for the debris to fall down and for air circulation to effectively dry the area between the liner and the wheel arch. This results in a consistently moist mass in direct contact with the metal arch above the liner, which poses a significant risk as it will certainly expedite the process of rust formation on the wheel arch, especially in the folded lip area. A resolution must be sought to address this issue. From a manufacturer's technical perspective, Mercedes and other companies employ a sufficient number of engineers with AutoCAD expertise who are capable of designing a wheel arch liner that effectively addresses this issue. Additionally, they possess the necessary materials to seal the gap and remove any space between the liner and the wheel arch. As someone with expertise in Oil/Gas & Petrochemicals Industrial IT Engineering, I can suggest two or three compressible and hydrophobic insulating materials that can be used to fill the gap between the liner and wheel arch. Additionally, there are a few acrylic 'permanent-tack' pastes that can be used to create a seal between the wheel arch lip fold and the edge of the liner. Meanwhile, I will examine this matter in my vehicle to see if any improvements can be made.

I would want to express my sincere gratitude to each and every one of you for the valuable insights and perspectives that you have generously offered. It is highly valued. Overall, I believe that completing a whole treatment cycle is unlikely. However, I am considering proactively treating the wheel arches as a preventive measure, in order to address the issue before it worsens and causes the paintwork to bubble. Currently, there are almost no visible indications of rust whatsoever. Everything is seamless and delightful. Upon seeing the mud trapped, I pondered if these plastic wheel arch linings are really more detrimental than having the arch exposed, therefore facilitating the removal of road debris by washing. Indeed, if the lining fails to establish an impermeable barrier with the folded lip of the arch, the purpose of having a protective lining becomes questionable.

Characteristic conduct shown by manufacturers and key dealers. I believe it is not only limited to Mercedes. They all do identical actions.

There exists an EU Directive that prohibits automobile manufacturers from invalidating warranties if a car is fixed at a different location. I am uncertain about the revocation of the Directive after Brexit, given I lack comprehensive knowledge of its specific provisions. The age of my automobile is 10 years, with a mileage of around 36,000 kilometres. Thus far, there is no evidence of rust. However, I am expecting the typical progression of events with the wheel arches. The mileage will have no significance whatsoever.

I am unfamiliar with ACF50. Is it safe to heat the cans by immersing them in hot water? What is the specific method you use to go forward? What is the optimal temperature for the water? I am contemplating the possibility that the contents of the can expand as the temperature rises, perhaps leading to the chance of the can bursting or experiencing a similarly unpleasant outcome.

Precisely aligned with my thoughts.

Indeed, the vehicle has a comprehensive MB Service History, covering the majority of its lifespan from its first registration in December 2013. Additionally, it has been serviced by a specialised garage specifically for Mercedes-Benz vehicles. Therefore, considering the age of 10, I would not rely on the trustworthiness of MB benevolence.

If the paintwork develops bubbles, it will eventually puncture. In my opinion, Mercedes seems to have a limited perspective on this matter. Currently, my automobile exhibits no indications of rust whatsoever, in any location. I am sceptical after extensively removing damp muck from the crease of the wheel arch lip.

Typically, I maintain ownership of an automobile for a duration of 3 to 5 years. I would recommend considering a DINITROL treatment specifically targeting the wheel arches, since corrosion tends to manifest in this area first in a significant proportion of instances, based on visual observations.

The MB E250 CDi in my possession is a 63-Reg model from 2013, making it a decade old. I am completely free of rust and Mercedes-Benz has a corrosion guarantee of 30 years. Therefore, in principle, there are still 20 years remaining on the corrosion warranty. It is evident that I have long been aware of the tendency for MB automobiles to acquire corrosion in the wheel arches, particularly around the curved lip. Therefore, I am vigilant in monitoring this issue. Last week, when washing the automobile, I directed the high-pressure stream beneath the curved edges of the car's body, causing a significant amount of wet dirt to fall from the folded area. I was taken aback since I believed that the plastic wheel arch protectors formed a snug seal with the arch lip fold. Furthermore, what is the purpose of plastic wheel arch protectors if they fail to prevent water and road salt from reaching the metal?The user's text is enclosed in tags. I am unable to comprehend it. I had been contemplating enrolling in a DINITROL corrosion-proofing course. The nearest Service Centre to my location is in Scotland. They provided a quotation of £700+VAT for a comprehensive service, including the wheel arches, boot well, under-chassis, and door insides. The automobile will be out of service for a whole duration of 5 days, necessitating the need for me to schedule a vacation in order to accommodate this. I am neither enthusiastic about the price, nor the extended duration (5 days) required for completion. Thus I also contemplated doing the wheel arches myself using the DINITROL DIY KITS and have the Service Centre to handle the rest. However, there are certain inquiries that need to be raised, for which I lack the knowledge to provide a response: I am uncertain if doing this action will void the Mercedes Corrosion Warranty.If I choose not to take action and instead depend on Mercedes to fulfil their responsibility in the event of corrosion occurring during the remaining 20-year corrosion guarantee, can I trust that Mercedes-Benz will really fulfil their obligation?If I have the DINITROL treatment, despite it voiding the MB Warranty, would it be a more advantageous investment to prevent a much larger repair cost in case Mercedes refuses to honour the Warranty? I am aware that DINITROL is of high quality. The recommended treatment for all military vehicles in the UK MOD as well as NATO is universally applied. May I inquire about your opinion on this matter?

Thank you for the response and explanation on the choice of dynamic suspension.

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Thank you for your response, I will definitely investigate it.

Thank you for your response and feedback about the tyre size, tread pattern, and sidewalls. Although I first overlooked it during the test drive, all other aspects of the vehicle met my expectations, leading me to make an emotional decision rather than a rational one. Thank you once again

Thank you for your feedback. I will definitely examine the present tyre manufacturer on the rims and consult with the tyre fitters for their opinion.

First and foremost, I would want to express my sincere gratitude for your prompt response. Regarding the ride quality, it seems that we perceive every irregularity on the road, regardless of its magnitude. I would want to verify if my Evoque is equipped with the dynamic option. However, I am unable to locate a corresponding button on the console. Thank you for providing this information. I presume that is related to the 20-inch rims. I would want to make a modification to the suspension.

ha ha ha !!!😁

The vehicle in question is a 2016 Evoque dynamic model equipped with 20-inch rims. Although I have a strong affinity for the automobile, having had it for two months, I am very dissatisfied with the ride quality. I acknowledge and value the fact that the use of 20-inch rims will inevitably impact the ride's quality, and I have no intention of diminishing their dimensions. Are there any suggestions for suspension improvements that might enhance the ride quality? I would want to express my gratitude in advance for any advice or suggestions that you may provide.

If the need for all-wheel drive is not a factor, I would readily choose the M6 without any hesitation. I own a 650 Gran Coupe vehicle that has undergone many modifications, with other enhancements planned for the future. However, it is important to note that my vehicle is not an M6 model and will not be converted into one. It is anticipated that one may experience regret upon making the decision to acquire the 6, since it is not a vehicle often seen in circulation. Moreover, the M6 variant is deemed to possess an even higher level of exclusivity, in my humble opinion.

In the case of an AMG line, it is possible to install a suspension configuration derived from a SE or a comparable non-sport suspension model.

It is recommended to divide or separate the speed bumps. The presence of my sump/undertrays may potentially cause annoyance to the cars behind me, nevertheless, I place significant importance on their worth.