Motoman

If it is a CLC, it will be classified as a CL203. Observe this https://www.carnoisseur.com/blog/mercedes-model-numbers However, I plan to address my own task in the next month.

There is no guarantee provided for an automobile that is 14 years old.

The battery is in good condition. I am uncertain about the connection between the boot struts and the battery, given the former are purely mechanical components. I own a Topdon Artilink 500B device that I want to establish a connection with in order to identify any recorded faults. If any mistakes are found, I will proceed to eliminate them. Subsequently, I will assess the remaining issues. The next two tasks on my agenda are fixing the lights and addressing a little abrasion on the side wall of the front tyre.

Thank you. Thank you for providing the update on the W number. It is challenging to conduct searches when one lacks knowledge about the specific item they are seeking. After doing thorough research on W numbers and your information on it being a C203, I discovered the following: https://www.carnoisseur.com/blog/mercedes-model-numbers It seems that Mercedes did not adhere to their sequential numbering system for its W models. It might be perplexing when you are attempting to locate compatible components and are unable to choose them based on the registration number.

1. I conducted more research on this topic. The mechanic has encountered this occurrence once. During its 10-year stay in its former location, the automobile was situated in a remote and rural area. At some time, it had a problem with rodents, resulting in the chewing of certain wires. The car's engine compartment and wiring have been treated with an antivermin spray, thereby preventing further occurrences. Additionally, the damaged wires have been replaced. However, it is quite probable that there is an exposed wire that is making contact with the ground and causing a momentary electrical malfunction. Therefore, I need to open the hood and carefully follow the path of the wires to identify the issue. It is possible that a wire that was partly chewed was overlooked, or that a wire has been damaged by rubbing against something and requires a protective covering. When I spoke to an auto electrical shop, they said that without doing a comprehensive examination, they couldn't provide a definitive answer. However, based on the description of the issue, it seems to be indicative of a short circuit. It has not occurred in the last 6 weeks, which is a positive sign. Perhaps the wire that was causing the problem was inadvertently repositioned during the servicing, resulting in the elimination of the short circuit. Without a comprehensive examination, it is impossible to make a definitive statement, but it is feasible. 2. Regarding the glow plugs. I will defer the task to the mechanic. A collection of electrical plugs is not costly. 3. The struts are in satisfactory condition. 4. Please refer to the picture provided. There are three holes positioned along the bottom border of the boot lid and three holes on the inside edge. When I raise the boot after it has rained, water seems to fall inside the boot. Do these openings serve as drainage holes? Are grommet plugs intended to be included in them? Is it necessary for the boot to have a rubber gasket running down its edge? All the images I come across of a boot lid just depict its outside. The remaining substance is soil, not corrosion.

The automobile was somewhat covered with soot. Installed several technical upgrades and performed a regeneration on the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF). It seems much improved at now. He said that the plugs are in satisfactory condition and advised against replacing them until it becomes necessary. He will inspect the upcoming maintenance. I neglected to attend to the boot struts. I applied a thorough cleaning and a coat of lithium spray, which has shown to be beneficial. Presumably, they only need a thorough cleaning. I am uncertain if there are any gaskets or grommets missing along the edge of the boot. The power steering system was inspected at the previous month's service and is in good condition. They are just weighty. My headlights are still inadequate and need replacement.

Had a conversation with an automotive technician. 1. Evidently, this is mostly caused by the automobile often making short trips and accumulating some soot. He will introduce a quantity of tec 4 cleaner into the car's system and initiate a DPF regeneration process to see the subsequent outcome. 2. He expressed doubt on the need of replacing the plugs on a vehicle with 70k miles, but he agreed to inspect them. 3. Purchasing a quantity and substituting them. Accomplished the task in different vehicles. Thank you for the advice on the plastic components. I shall exhibit a considerate and delicate approach. 4. I will be vigilant for another CLC 220 and attempt to inspect it. I am considering visiting the scrapyard to inquire about the availability of the desired item. 5. It is evident that Mercedes cars are much heavier when it comes to their steering. He reassured that there is no need for concern. However, he is still investigating the replacement of the light.

Greetings, everybody. I have acquired possession of a 2010 CLC 220 CDi. The odometer shows a mileage of 70,000. The car was previously owned by my mother-in-law, who has had it since 2013. She has consistently taken it to Mercedes for annual servicing. Now that we have addressed that, I have a few first inquiries. It is important mentioning that there are no engine lights or problems being shown. I have not yet linked it to get any potential error codes that may not be currently shown. 1. One issue is that sometimes when driving, the power might abruptly go off and the engine stops running. The duration may be sufficiently brief to prevent the engine from stalling, allowing the automobile to resume acceleration smoothly. On one occasion, the vehicle had a sudden loss of power, requiring me to quickly shift to park, switch off the engine, and then restart it. This was particularly challenging as I was waiting at a traffic signal, with only approximately 5 seconds before the light turned green. Do you have any opinions or ideas? 2. It is possible that there is a connection, however when you activate the ignition shortly before starting the engine, the glowplug indicator illuminates and then turns off after a few seconds, allowing you to start the engine as usual. Occasionally, the glowplug lights reappear, but then extinguish after around 30 seconds. Do you have any opinions or ideas? 3. The rear trunk door I believe that the vehicle need replacement boot struts, since they are unable to raise the rear lid alone. Is that correct? I am fully capable of doing the task without difficulty. 4. After rainfall, when you raise the boot, water trickles down from the edge into the boot region, causing it to get moist. It seems like there is a rubber gasket and several rubber grommets missing from the inside boot lid. However, without a reference vehicle, I cannot confirm this. If I capture an image of the inside of the boot lid, would it be possible for someone to do a comparison with their own and provide me with feedback? 5. This last observation might be attributed to my lack of familiarity with Mercedes vehicles, but I find the power steering to be rather burdensome. Reminiscent of the weightiness of my last PT Cruiser from a few years back. It is much more weighty compared to both my VW T-Roc and my previous KIA Niro. Does the steering seem burdensome on these vehicles? 6. Lastly, the headlights. The stock ones are of poor quality. The colour of the automobile is lacklustre and has a yellowish hue, which is in stark contrast to the vibrant colours of contemporary vehicles. Do you have any recommendations for alternative options that may be used to replace certain components of the headlight assembly without having to replace the complete unit? Thank you very much

I fail to comprehend the justification for granting you a refund. Despite their first mistake, they rectified it without any further cost, as they should have. Furthermore, they waived the MOT price, ensuring that you were not put at a disadvantage, and provided compensation for the inconvenience.

Are you a fan of Blue Peter?

It is recommended to use puraflex 40, available at Toolstation, on the metalwork. Then, proceed to place the seal in position.

On my vehicle, there was a leakage originating from the area behind the number plate holder. There were perhaps 16 or more potential places of leakage located behind it. Perhaps the third brake light as well. 👍

The gearbox model is 722.9, which does not have a dipstick.

The wheels possess a visually appealing appearance, characterised by their colour and design.

That seems to be flawless.

Several years ago, this was my personal experience or story.

Wishing you the best of luck, DreamWeaver. Leicester is not an enjoyable destination to visit. A few years back, we attended an airshow nearby and unfortunately had the experience of travelling into Leicester to purchase foldable chairs. It is the place when I effectively joined the RAF 🙂

Personally, I would not have any involvement with a black automobile under any circumstances. The colour of my first vehicle, which was manufactured in 1971, was black. Since then, I have not had any more automobiles of the same colour. In my opinion, a silvery grey hue is the optimal colour choice for minimising the visibility of dirt. Currently, we own two automobiles that are of a medium shade of blue. These cars are not in excellent condition, however one of them has a two-tone design with a silver bottom half that is somewhat better.

Indeed, it is another potential location where rust may be present - the back screen is exhibiting fogging and delamination around its borders, which is cause for concern. I am considering the financial implications of resolving all the issues vs tolerating the unpleasant aspects.

Oh, I find it intriguing that I was not previously aware of the usual difficulty in matching silver. It is beneficial to have this information, thank you!

Greetings, everyone. The colour of my SEC is Smoke Silver, with a paint code of 702. Since I have had it, the vehicle has obtained a few insignificant little dings and there is some corrosion forming around the wheel arches. I would want to know whether the hue Smoke Silver would be difficult to match if I were to bring it to a body shop. Considering the age of the current paint, will it be challenging to achieve a colour match during a partial respray? Frankly, I am uncertain of the typical procedure for repairing these specific areas of the vehicle's exterior. I would very appreciate any guidance or suggestions you may provide. If anybody could suggest a reputable establishment in the London/Kent region, it would be much appreciated. Thank you very much!

The automobile is equipped with buttons, but none of them are specifically for the alarm. Instead, the buttons are intended for controlling the inside lighting, as well as for activating the SOS and Mercedes Me features. The video in the introductory message cannot be accessed, but, the interior and motion sensors remain active at all times until manually deactivated immediately before to securing the vehicle. Reactivated upon subsequent entry into the automobile.

An excellent but costly choice is Krytox, the seal restorer highly suggested by BMW for the Eos (notorious for seal issues!). A more cost-effective option is GummiPflege, and the most affordable source is often Micks Garage on Ebay when purchasing two items instead of one. I have been use that product on both of my vehicles for a considerable number of years, including my previous 968 cabriolet before acquiring the SLK.

However, other videos and internet sources indicate that the left-hand pane should show the current fuel reserve in real-time. Consequently, I remain uninformed and uncertain about this matter.

I conducted the Instrument test and had the following result.