WiseSage

Regrettably, some essential components are progressively no longer available from Mercedes Benz. I intended to provide the part numbers along with their possibilities for anyone who, like me, are enquiring about the optimal available choices. My vehicle is a 1976 240D. Thoughts on improved OEM alternatives Welcome. If you want to assist other owners, please provide any more NLA components I may have overlooked in the following format: Description -> Part # -> Alternative Part with buy link. Radiator A1145011101 Special Order from Mercedes-Benz Oil Cooler A1081800265 Special Order from Mercedes-Benz Heater Blower A1158350207 Special Order from MB Centre Exhaust A1154900115 Special Order from MB Front Subframe Mount Kit 1153301875 Meyle Aftermarket Alternative (Presumably superior than Febi?)

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Keep in mind that if you have experienced a loss of fluid, it indicates the presence of a leak that will need repair.

In order to resolve the issue of the lost key, it is necessary to contact BMW and have them delete the key from the car's system. Similarly, BMW will need to be contacted to add a new key to the system.

The automobile will continue to operate until it is manually turned off after being started with a key in the ignition. It should begin alerting you about the absence of the key, in my opinion.

Thank you in advance for any assistance.

Greetings, everybody. I am contemplating purchasing used tires for my vehicle in order to save expenses, but, I have reservations about their safety and dependability. Has anybody in this group have firsthand experience with used tires? Are there any particular factors I should be cautious about while purchasing them? I have seen divergent viewpoints - some assert that they are an excellent means of economising, whilst others caution about possibly concealed impairments and reduced longevity. I would highly appreciate any guidance on trustworthy dealers or suggestions for doing thorough inspections of tires. I really forward receiving your insights and personal experiences.

Many individuals are unaware of the significant distinctions shown by the CX-90. The powertrain incorporates a combustion engine fueled by petrol, although all variants are also equipped with an electric motor and battery. Regarding the basic 6 cylinder and Turbo S models, they both consist of an electric motor and a tiny battery known as a mild hybrid electric vehicle (MHEV). On the other hand, the plug-in hybrid variant is equipped with a 4 cylinder engine, a larger electric motor, and a bigger battery, referred to as a plug-in hybrid electric vehicle (PHEV). Indeed, all CX-90 models are equipped with hybrid technology. I don't get why there is an additional cost for owning a hybrid vehicle. It seems logical that the price should be lower instead. 😢 Premium, in this context, refers to a certain trim level of a vehicle and does not have any impact on the available powertrain options.

Are you referring to the distributor cap and rotor arm? What is the age of the HT leads?

Enjoyable journey!

If you own a 3.5 mm jack connector, you may use it to enable Bluetooth connectivity for both music playback and phone calls. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09Y8CZ48V?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_P9Y0R6FARCK6HVMGZ6VH&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_P9Y0R6FARCK6HVMGZ6VH&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apin_dp_P9Y0R6FARCK6HVMGZ6VH&starsLeft=1&skipTwisterOG=1

However, you previously informed us that you were just going out briefly to get milk...

Greetings upon your return! It has been a considerable amount of time.

I will apply penetrating fluid and let it sit till the weekend. If it is not possible, would you suggest removing the upper arm to improve access, grip, leverage, or hammering capability? Last month, the subframe was changed, which is indicated by the new black paint finish on the subframe. As a result, one end of the arm has just fallen off. I anticipate that it should not be very challenging to remove and work on it on the bench.

The product is an LEMFÖRDER Rod / Strut with the part number 36250 01, specifically designed for the rear left upper position. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/lemforder/7020956?tduid=9bfc80bc028c57ec75fec94c02ef9c9b The presence of two holes in the arm indicates the intended location for the ball joint plate. The Right hand comparable arm (36251 01) likewise has the two pictured holes, however their presence may be attributed to manufacturing convenience rather than serving as confirmation of the presence of a level sensor on the rear driver's side.

I apologise for directly mentioning you; you possess a wealth of valuable knowledge and advice. I would want to express my gratitude in advance for any recommendations you may have. One possible solution is to remove the upper suspension arm and use aggressive methods such as heating, drilling, and using a 5lb lump hammer to detach the old ball joint plate. Alternatively, you may replace the upper arm entirely and install a new ball joint plate that includes a new sensor.

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/metzger/15819207?tduid=9bfc80bc028c57ec75fec94c02ef9c9b

Regrettably, I failed to verify the component number of the rear sensor when it was taken out of the vehicle due to time constraints and my concern about being unable to remove the plate. What are your thoughts about this Metzger item?

Greetings Mercedes-Benz enthusiasts, There is a fracture on the ball joint linkage arm of the rear level sensor responsible for adjusting the height of the xenon headlights. I purchased new links, but when removing the links/sensor on the rear passenger side (located above the drive shaft), I saw a break in the sensor housing where it holds the fastening bolts. Additionally, the balls of the ball joints are heavily rusted and rough. Despite extensive efforts to repair and improve them, there is too much corrosion present to provide a smooth surface for the replacement arms. Considering the malfunctioning sensor housing, I am contemplating replacing the level sensors. However, I need assistance, please. 1. Are there sensors on both sides of the back, or is there just one on the rear passenger side wheel suspension linkage and one on the front driver's wheel suspension linkage? Does the system just need knowledge of the chassis pitch in order to automatically modify the dipping beam? Can somebody provide the component numbers for all the level sensors for my 2011 w212 E350? Alternatively, I would appreciate recommendations for other units that are not as expensive as the £400 ones offered by Mercedes. 2. After reassembling everything today, I noticed that my headlights are positioned too high this evening, indicating that I had inadvertently disrupted something. I completely detached the level sensor and unplugged it. I presume that whatever this pertains to, it would present the same problem if I were to install a new level sensor. How do I recalibrate the xenon headlights to the proper alignment? Is it possible to do this task with iCarsoft? 3. All components, with the exception of the plate (with the corresponding ball joint) that links to the upper rear suspension arm, may be removed quite easily. I attempted to detach the apparent sole fastening nut for the plate (as seen in the pictures), but the plate seemed to be firmly affixed to the upper suspension arm, as it showed no signs of movement. Considering that this plate and its corresponding ball joint are equipped with a new level sensor, is there any aspect that I should be aware of before removing it? The securing nut has been detached from the rear of the plate that is connected to the ball joint.

Modern keys hold personalised configuration data, such as radio, display, and seat settings (depending on the model). I believe it does not save any further information. Some models have the option to designate a key as a 'valet' key, which restricts the speed and radio level when it is used.

Typically, I only utilise a single key.

I would inspect the intake and remove any accumulated soot and oil residue.

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