br1anuk

Inexpensive, as described by a client... The ACS package effectively provides a comprehensive suspension solution for everyday use, eliminating the need to choose between comfort and sport options, which are seen as subpar alternatives. The evaluation is characterized by its strictness, although it adheres to principles of fairness.

The F36 exhibits underdamping characteristics initially as a result of the tailgate's weight. The installation of shorter and stiffer springs, including our own, has the effect of reducing body roll and other related issues. However, it is important to note that this modification might potentially worsen the bounciness of the original, weak dampers. When financial resources permit, it is advisable to install matching sports dampers or B8 Bilstein dampers as an alternative, if the ACS versions are not within budgetary constraints. Additionally, it is recommended to disable the adaptive damping system via coding.

The updated rear air spring assembly incorporates a Goodyear bladder, which is accompanied by meticulously crafted components made from CNC-machined aircraft-grade aluminum. The air springs in question are supported by a warranty that extends for the duration of the product's lifetime. The assembly is supplied with brand new seals. It is now possible to replace air springs at a cost below $600.00 per unit, hence avoiding the need to rely only on local dealerships for this service. This component may be installed in either the left or right rear position. Characteristics: • Goodyear Air Spring Bladder • CNC Machined Cap & Piston • Inclusion of New O-rings • Engineering and Manufacturing in the United States of America

It seems that the reverse clutch mechanism has become inoperative. I had a same occurrence. To minimize potential challenges, it is advisable to choose for a dyno tested rebuilt unit as a replacement.

Could you please provide the model number for the gear motor starter with more torque in comparison to the other type? By whom is it carried?

Regarding the lighted door sills, it is my understanding that this feature was included as part of one of the available option packs. To ascertain if the vehicle in question is intended to possess this feature, I recommend consulting the Datacard. If the Datacard indicates that the automobile should include a certain feature, but it has been subsequently deleted, it will be flagged as a problem in the STAR system.

I have just created an account on this platform in order to inquire about the progress made in resolving a current problem that I am facing. During my return journey from a distance of 200 miles, when I was just 1 mile away from my destination, I experienced a decrease in speed, resulting in a loss of power and activation of the vehicle's limp mode. Upon arriving home, I proceeded to switch off my vehicle and restarted it, only to see a flashing EML light and a lack of power. The fault codes retrieved from my scanner were P0101 and P1955. I attempted the recommended solution of disconnecting the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, but unfortunately, it did not provide any noticeable changes. I am unable to successfully remove the codes. Upon inspection, I discovered that the pip connecting the turbo to the air box was not securely fastened. It is plausible to assume that this loose connection was the root cause of the issue. Consequently, I have rectified the situation by tightening the pip to ensure a proper and secure fit. Upon first connecting my scanner upon arrival at my residence, I saw the error code "2623 charge air system offset drift at idle." However, this issue has not recurred. Additionally, the glow plug for cylinder 1 was also illuminated, but it has not reappeared since then. I also experience a more resonant auditory output, according to the description you provided, emanating from the vehicle's exhaust system. Have you reached a resolution or understanding of the matter? I like to avoid engaging in a trial-and-error approach by attempting several methods until the underlying cause is identified.

It remains uncertain if any repositioning of components has occurred in the context of right-hand drive (RHD) vehicles. However, in the case of left-hand drive (LHD) vehicles, convention dictates that those components are often situated inside the footwell of the passenger side. Issues may arise when leaves obstruct the drain plugs located in the cowl, potentially leading to moisture exposure of the cowl and its associated components.

I kindly want assistance in identifying a local independent expert. @MikeInWimbledon, are you acquainted with anyone?

It would be beneficial for you to have a specialized companion in the field of MB. Could you please clarify the intended meaning of "near" London and provide information about your location?

Even in the case of a private seller, it is impermissible to sell an automobile that had preexisting problems without disclosing this information to the buyer. Perhaps it would be beneficial to engage in a discussion on the possibility of his rectifying the situation.

Regardless of the tool or method used, there is little scope for further enhancement since the current state is already remarkable.

The speed at which something was accomplished is impressive. Indeed, the process of polishing may be physically demanding. Congratulations to you for demonstrating dedication and perseverance. In recollection of a bygone era characterized by a surplus of leisure, I would devote an entire Saturday to the meticulous cleansing and burnishing of my automobile, even resorting to reclining upon the driveway surface to ensure the comprehensive purification and lustration of the chrome exhaust tips. Regrettably, my neighbors, lacking comprehension of our shared automotive ardor, regarded this behavior as eccentric, much like our own inability to fathom their fervor for philatelism.

Appreciated! What is the estimated duration for completing stages 1-10?

So, you believe that's a poor idea...The inside plastics of my work vehicle are bright colors, therefore yesterday I steam cleaned them. Keeping your automobile clean is a great way to feel good about yourself. In a sense, I feel like it's helping me heal.

Probably not the ECU or the MAF, but the exhaust back pressure sensor. The exhaust back pressure sensor will fool many technicians into believing the turbo actuator is at fault, when in fact it isn't, and this is just one example of how code readers may lead to more complications in the car's operation. Instead of throwing away cash on a whim, you could invest in a Mercedes Star session. A faulty ECU or maf is conceivable but unlikely to be the cause.

Should be simple enough from above; simply check for leaks in the hoses with a hand probe.

Do you have any error messages? In addition, a quick check for leaks would be the boost hoses leading to the intercooler.

I plan to return often......my 3500S was wonderful.

Last week, I discussed the automobile with my next-door neighbor. What he will do with the automobile is still up in the air. Since 1988, it has been languishing in his garage since he apparently cannot decide what to do with it. It's too fine of a vehicle to sit around waiting for him to decide whether to repair it or sell it, so I hope he makes a decision soon.

Today, a neighbor and I will have a meal together. I'll pass along your and others' interest to him. Now that he's more invested in it than ever before, he needs to decide whether or not to sell. To follow up, I will.

Model year 1965 Jaguar XKE Roadster. Didn't imply the year 1954

My name's Healey, and I'm a newcomer to the Jaguar forum. My wife and I attended a neighborhood dinner party two weeks ago. One of my neighbors was ready to leave when he said he had some questions regarding sports vehicles. Sure, I said, "What do you want to know?" He moved in around four doors down from me a little over two years ago. I had no idea he had a 1954 XKE, which he has owned since 1984, in the garage. He kept driving it up till he moved to North Carolina in 1988 from Houston. He is just like all those people who start restoring a vehicle but never get around to completing it. The automobile is mostly intact, and he has brand-new, 30-year-old interior and roof components. He is really contemplating selling it but has no idea what price to set it at. I told him I would ask around on the board to see what I could learn. I've never been able to upload photos to the BCF, but if you'd like to do it for me, just send me an email and I'll gladly forward them on. [email protected] is where you can find me online. This automobile seems to be in good shape and would make a fine candidate for restoration.

Not yet on the worn bands, but I've seen worse. It's hard to tell, but it appears like they'd pass a MOT.

BMW's sensors are a two-stage circuit; the first step only wears the nipple down and provides a signal to DSC; however, this may only be for modifying mileage for CBS and not for affecting braking. In the second phase, the circuit is broken entirely, and the pad wear indicator lights up. So, OP, you said you replaced the ABS sensors but the problem still persists? It might be a wiring problem or the result of installing a low-quality sensor. Is real-time data available from diagnostics in order to verify wheel speeds?