SkippyTom

RSPA stands for Remote Smart Parking Assist. In alternative variants, such as the EV6, the vehicle is capable of autonomous parking. Regrettably, the EV3 only moves forward and backward. Extremely convenient for manoeuvring in and out of confined parking spaces. This may be accomplished with the key fob while positioned next to the vehicle.

ccNc denotes a connected automobile navigation system. The infotainment system, which includes the map and interface. The large display in the centre. Indeed, your vehicle has one. LFA = Lane Follow Assist (the vehicle autonomously navigates the roadway, executing turns around curves, typically applicable on highways) LKA is for Lane Keep Assist, a feature that tries to maintain the vehicle's position inside the lane by exerting physical nudges on the steering wheel. HDA = Highway Driving Assist (the vehicle autonomously operates on the freeway, maintaining distance from the preceding vehicle, steering, and centring inside the lane). All the aforementioned items ACC stands for Adaptive Cruise Control. The vehicle will maintain the predetermined pace, decelerating when a car is ahead and accelerating when the path is unobstructed. Excellent for traffic. Regen, iPedal, Auto = terms you may encounter. Regen refers to regenerative braking. The vehicle will regenerate energy when braking. Replenishing a minimal charge in the battery. Three levels may be established, with 1 representing the least severe and 3 denoting the most severe. iPedal functions identically to the aforementioned regenerative braking, with the added capability of bringing the vehicle to a complete stop, so facilitating one-pedal driving. The vehicle will autonomously determine the amount of regenerative braking based on navigation data and the presence of a preceding vehicle. The effectiveness is undetermined. The vehicle will use regenerative braking when you approach a roundabout. That is all I can contemplate at 11 PM. Simply request those you are unfamiliar with. The majority are amicable in this vicinity.

My subframe was replaced free of charge in November 2023. I spoke with the service technician about other changes, and he said, "Approximately £200 worth of bushes and bolts will also be replaced," leading me to conclude that all of them were changed. The vehicle had its MOT in December 2023, and the assessment indicated that all components seemed pristine and in excellent condition underneath. The rear brake lines were replaced in 2022, thus they did not need servicing. A four-wheel alignment was performed on the day I retrieved the vehicle. No documentation available for the handover. quietly discreet

When trading a Kia, ensure that you erase your profile from the previous vehicle prior to transfer. If you encounter difficulties, request the dealer to assist you before leaving; I assure you, it caused me complications attempting to disconnect my Sportage without access to the car.

I recall that this is a prevalent issue; the gasoline filler pipe need adjustment under warranty. Conducting a search on the forum will provide further information.

Google vehicle mats; enter your registration, and custom-made mats are promptly available at reasonable prices. Kia mats are of decent quality, although they do not justify the premium price. You must purchase a whole set. £20 to £70, based upon quality and source. I typically spend around £35 for quality patterned mats.

It prompts me to question why you are using them at all when. An appropriate Lexia clone is ideal for Peugeot, since it replicates the system used by PSA.

A brief history of the ELM327 and its Chinese replicas follows. I have used a generic Bluetooth ELM327 device with Dash. I like the idea of Dash; but, its execution is subpar. The narrative behind ELM327 is quite disappointing. None of the ELM327 devices available on Amazon or eBay are authentic. Elm Electronics created the ELM327 firmware with a standard Microchip PIC18 microcontroller; however, when commencing sales of the first ELM327 chips, they neglected to include firmware copy protection. Individuals successfully extracted the firmware, programmed it into their own unprogrammed PIC18 microcontrollers, and produced counterfeit devices at a low cost. This is detrimental for Elm because to the significant income loss, and it is equally disadvantageous for us since all the counterfeit devices utilise an outdated and flawed firmware version 1.0. The authentic ELM327 has reached version 2.1, representing a significant improvement over version 1.0, with several bug fixes, more commands, improved protocol support, and larger buffers. Counterfeit devices sometimes indicate firmware versions beyond 1.0; however, this is deceptive—the 1.0 software has been minimally altered to display a higher version upon inquiry. Locating Bluetooth devices equipped with authentic, current ELM327 chips is unfeasible. At my previous employment, I used a genuine ELM327 chip on a circuit board within a product, employing the chip consistently. However, at times when I intended to access my vehicle and experiment with the ELM327, using a Bluetooth ELM327 device with my laptop was much more convenient than employing the real product I was constructing. Regrettably, after much searching, I was unable to locate any Bluetooth devices with authentic ELM327s. I sought a counterfeit device that used the same microcontroller footprint as the authentic chips, removed the fraudulent chip, and installed a genuine ELM327 v2.1 obtained straight from Elm. I purchased many gadgets that assured the usage of authentic ELM327 chips, although none included them. I observed the existence of two categories of forgeries. The respectable devices that use the pilfered firmware on generic PIC18s and the inferior ones that employ an entirely distinct architecture while attempting to replicate the ELM327's functionality (with some ineptitude). Regrettably, it is impossible to ascertain without acquiring the device and executing certain instructions at a terminal. You may examine the inside electronics by opening it.

Acquire an ELM327 Bluetooth reader, using discernment in selection, then couple it with your phone or tablet and use an application such as Torque to gain a clearer understanding of the situation. From where area of Kent are you, Ryu?

I had the same problem, although not with my Hyundai. It occurred with one of my new Ford work vehicles. They also presented me with the narrative on soy-based insulation. It seems that Hyundai is not the alone entity engaging in this practice.

I just replaced my rear main seal and piston rings, and also installed an oil catch container for reassurance. The oil catch can has proven effective, and transitioning to 5W40 is advisable.

I much appreciate your assistance. I followed your instructions precisely and used the circlip I purchased to install it (uncertain of the whereabouts of the previous one), and now everything functions properly once again! Thank you!

Thank you! I procured this item from Amazon since they can supply it by tomorrow before 1 PM. I believe I will need a size 7. I will provide an update on my progress. Thank you once again!

Thank you for the valuable information! It seems that I must purchase a circlip, since BMW no longer sells them, and I cannot locate the old one in the trunk. Do you have any suggestions on where to get this? Thank you!

Greetings everyone, Requesting assistance, please. The strut on the electronic closing boot of my E38 seems to have detached from the primary hinge. The boot does not open effectively and shuts rapidly, hence it is advisable to close it manually. When closed, a panel gap is present. Do you have any suggestions for re-establishing the connection? Or is a replacement component necessary? I attempted to ascertain if the strut would reinsert into the bolt mechanism (both are vividly orange), but I am unable to do this. Thank you!

A concise update: I undertook a quick drive of roughly 7-8 miles today. Upon returning, I examined the vehicle and saw a noticeable leak, which seems to originate from the upper section of the valve cover rather than the gasket at its junction with the cylinder head. The area around the oil filler neck has a slightly elevated part that seems to connect to the main valve cover. This gap was moist, as was the rear upper driver's side (UK) of the valve cover, indicating a significant leak. Inspected the oil level, which was below the midpoint on the dipstick, and subsequently purchased one liter to elevate it to a level between halfway and full. I am now ambivalent about whether to use the automobile for a 100-mile business journey tomorrow. I like the leak to be as transparent as possible; but, this may jeopardize the vehicle. My friend has volunteered to drive, so I will see him in the morning to examine the car and proceed accordingly. The current assessment indicates that a full replacement of the valve cover is necessary, which is not ideal; nonetheless, if this is the situation, it must be accepted. Is it advisable to purchase the original BMW part for £400, despite my financial constraints, or should I consider more cheaper alternatives, such as Febi, which are priced between £100 and £200? I assume the least expensive choices are not authentic. Any advise and recommendations would be appreciated. I generally prefer authentic BMW parts; however, the cost of £400 is currently prohibitive for me. Additionally, I must consider the expense of genuine BMW valve cover gaskets and copper washers for the injectors. Would a used valve cover from an identical specification and model year engine be compatible? Is there any potential source for the leak above the valve cover? A prevalent vulnerability that I need to examine? I will examine the automobile again tomorrow after work to thoroughly assess the leak and anticipate obtaining my answers. I have included an image indicating a green arrow directed toward the seam exhibiting a little oil presence, and a red circle highlighting the location of the main leak. I will attempt to send images showing the precise leak so far.

Indeed, I will also replace the injector gaskets and tighten them to 10 Nm in a spiral pattern without using sealant. I had been seeking a lower setting torque wrench for some time, making this an opportune moment to get one. I will first report my findings to ensure I am proceeding correctly and then inquire with the seller about the usage of an old gasket. He is a reasonable person, and I am certain he will provide an honest response. As I said, it seems like gasket sealant has been applied, so I am hopeful that the issue is limited to that and not anything more severe. I believe I can handle it independently and will verify if I require additional components, such as new copper washers for the injectors or possibly stretch bolts for the injector hold-downs. With all due respect to the seller, he provided the vehicle at a very reasonable price, considering the work he performed; however, he may have taken a few shortcuts where he genuinely believed he could. Nonetheless, this situation is advantageous, as I can communicate with him regarding other items he should consider replacing when addressing vehicles with chain issues, as he engages in this work on the side. Thank you once again, my buddy I need guidance on a new shock configuration and a DDE ECU software upgrade; I will initiate separate discussions for these topics as necessary.

Greetings to everybody. My 2012 E91 318D, with 157,000 miles and an N47-D20C engine, has developed an oil leak. I discovered it a few days ago while conducting tests with ISTA+ on the exhaust sensors. Upon placing my hand at the rear of the engine, I detected oil. I recorded a video to inspect the area, as access was restricted, and observed the oil leak. However, I could not ascertain the precise source; the oil was located at the rear, on the driver's side, and slightly at the top of the rocker cover on the driver's side. Thoroughly cleaned the region, finding no oil around the injectors. There is no noticeable leakage around the rocker cover gasket, however there seems to be sealant that is shimmering and somewhat moist. After running the engine, I inspected the rocker gasket area for oil seepage, but saw no obvious signs. The rocker cover does not seem to be fractured or cracked; nevertheless, I will examine it and the gasket region more thoroughly when I drive the vehicle to work on Wednesday, since I need to get a liter of oil just in case. I purchased the automobile in February 2024, and the seller just replaced the chain and installed a new clutch due to the prior chain's loudness. It seems he may have used the previous rocker gasket or even changed it; nevertheless, it seems gasket sealant has also been applied, resulting in the visible rubbery material between the head and rocker cover. I will ascertain information from the vendor, since I remain in contact with him. I suspect the rocker cover is the issue, since it seems to be a prevalent problem with the N47; I will post my results in a few days. The oil level was somewhat low when I first identified the problem, prompting me to add a quarter of a liter that I had remaining. Upon checking it today, two days later, it seems low once again. I assessed the level while cold, hot, and after a three-minute cooldown, and it looks to be barely over the minimal threshold. I will assess the situation in a few days when I use the automobile for a 100-mile round trip to work and will report my observations. The only additional point I should note is that the engine was very hot on the day I identified the leak, which may be attributable to low oil levels, although I am certain I replenished it three weeks before. It is conceivable that it may also be... The valve cover may be damaged due to heat and may be deformed. Fracture located in the valve cover. The previous gasket may have been reused following the timing chain replacement, and gasket sealant was subsequently applied. I am currently optimistic that it only requires a new gasket; if that is the case, would it be prudent to additionally apply a gasket sealant? Any other recommendations on leak detection and guidance on gasket replacement procedures? I anticipate that the injectors will not be very difficult to extract, given they were presumably installed in January of this year when the chain was rebuilt. Are there any further factors to explore about the source of the leak, and any advice would be highly appreciated? I will provide an update after I identify the source of the leak, and because the vehicle has completed 8,000 miles, I will do an oil change immediately after rectifying the issue. Finally, I will detach the turbo pipe to inspect for oil leaks and assess the impeller for any play. Once again, any assistance would be much appreciated.

Navigate to the 'Vehicle' option located on the front screen's left side. Scroll to the left and choose 'Convenience'. Next, locate the 'Advance Anti Theft' option and uncheck the box. The Gen 4 Sportage has a physical on/off button located in the overhead console, making it more convenient.

The most probable cause is a malfunctioning or jammed hydraulic tappet, which is then likely to be accompanied by camshaft attrition. The valve train noise occurs while the engine is running at half its speed, whereas the noise from the bottom end (piston/rod/crank) occurs when the engine is running at its maximum speed.

Retain it. I have seen automobiles being sold on platforms such as BaT that are equipped with modified exhaust systems. A common inquiry that arises is if the original exhaust system is still available. Although the customer may not intend to wear it, the availability of the choice is appealing. Furthermore, losing a sale due to it would be really undesirable, but it is rather simple to retain it and prevent such a situation.

Can you confirm that the rear brakes were not experiencing higher temperatures than the front brakes prior to the completion of the task?

Best of luck, slim. The total cost for my two-year insurance on the c180 with confused was around £1456. Attempt to include them into an existing policy, since this often results in a more advantageous cost-effectiveness.

I had a similar problem with a non-Mercedes-Benz vehicle, specifically related to difficulties starting the engine in cold conditions. A leaking injector would release gasoline into the engine overnight, causing the fuel rail to become empty and enabling air to enter the system. The first effort was unsuccessful, but subsequent attempts, maybe the second or third, would prove successful since the air had been completely removed.