Rashman4u

Firstly, I would like to express my immense gratitude. The seat adjustments (up, down, fore, aft, tilt) produce an audible click when attempting to operate the switches, indicating the presence of power to the seat, as you mentioned. What is the current course of action? Once again, I apologise for the many inquiries. The automobile belongs to my wife.

After I test the adjustments…then what? Thanks, for your help.

However, how can I access it? After removing the front seat cover, what specific component should I be searching for and what actions should I take? As a relatively inexperienced Land Rover owner, I would really appreciate any and all information that can be provided.

Where is the location of the seat fuse?

When the memory seating button is pressed, the mirrors, lumbar support, and steering wheel adjust to their designated positions. However, the seat does not move and instead produces a clicking sound. The only seat that is not functioning is the driver's seat. How can I locate and access the seat fuse, and what methods can I use to identify it? Assistance is requested.

I have affixed an iPhone SIM eject "tool" to the bottom of the centre storage lid using blue tack, specifically for situations where it is needed.

I thought they would just switch off after twenty or thirty seconds. Is this anything you've attempted to test? While the vehicle's lights are set to automatic, my Ford Transit van does this.

It is possible that he had seen your work and found it to be far better than his own, leading him to believe that you were being sarcastic. Alternatively, he may have a strong dislike for the item and had a genuine desire to get an Audi, although his spouse compelled him to make the purchase. What was the approximate age of this individual who was in a bad mood? Perhaps he was a Sassenach and just couldn't comprehend you...

I am not a lawyer. However, I believe it would be challenging for you to override the Kia Connect data in order to replace a camera picture from a properly functioning and calibrated speed camera. Attempting to do so would require forfeiting the Speed Awareness option, which would not be available to you in the future if you were unsuccessful in your attempt. You may also be required to bear the cost of hiring expert witnesses to substantiate your claim. However, if you decide to do it, I wish you the best of luck!

The cost for the EGR pieces is £900, while the cost for the intake manifold is £1100.

Today, I had a conversation with the garage and they informed me that the egr (exhaust gas recirculation) system is malfunctioning. Additionally, they discovered that a component in the intake manifold responsible for opening and closing the flaps has broken, resulting in the flaps being stuck in the open position. This has caused continuous damage to the inlet manifold. The whole expense for replacing all goods amounts to £2900.

The precise location is Newark, Nottinghamshire.

Greetings, everyone. Recently, I had a problem where my 2012 F07 with 85,000 km on it failed to start one morning. I summoned the AA and applied a little amount of easy start to the location of the air filter, resulting in the engine starting, but with irregular running and emitting some smoke from the exhaust. He recommended it as a malfunctioning injector and accompanied me to a nearby automotive repair shop. They reached a consensus that there was a high likelihood of a defective injector, so they proceeded to uninstall all of them and sent them for testing. Today, I called to inquire about the progress, and I was informed that the injectors were not defective. However, they performed some reprogramming on them. Upon their return, the vehicle continued to operate in the same manner. The individual now speculates that the problem may be attributed to the EGR cooler. I have attempted to investigate the symptoms of a malfunctioning exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) cooler, but none of the identified symptoms align with the current performance of my vehicle. There are no issues with overheating, coolant loss, or the presence of white smoke. Has anybody experienced anything similar or can provide any advice? I instructed them to proceed with examining the EGR cooler, since I lacked knowledge of other courses of action. He referenced a compression test but said that the light plugs were immobile.

They are universally same regardless of location. Corrosion and expansion of the shaft often occur on the back, leading to rust and swelling of the ring. The front components may experience failure, but to a lesser extent, since the ring is integrated into the hub/bearing and is not exposed to the same level of moisture due to its internal positioning.

The sensor will remain functional even when placed under the washer. Will not modify anything else.

One of the ABS sensors is causing the issue. The driver side rear wheel is shown when the speedometer stops functioning. To troubleshoot and provide a temporary solution, remove the sensor and reattach it with a washer placed between the sensor and hub. This will create a little gap between the sensor and reluctor ring. The ring expands and captures the sensor. If the temporary solution is successful, a new sensor and reluctor ring will be required.

If something seems too favourable, it is likely to be deceptive or misleading. On one occasion, I informed a friend that I had come across a Ferrari that was within my financial means, maybe a 348 model. His advise was astute - if you lack the financial means to operate a new one, you certainly lack the financial means to operate a low-cost one! However, it is impossible to predict with certainty.

It is important to note that the E-class convertible, known as the Mercedes designation A207, was actually built on the C-class platform, rather than the real E-class W212.

As an update, I successfully replaced just the temperature sensor. In the original Mercedes model, I had difficulty in removing the sensor. However, I saw that the sensor in this Calorstat model had the ability to rotate. Therefore, I attempted to remove it and succeeded. Consequently, I proceeded to replace the sensor, resulting in a successful outcome. Subsequently, once this occurs, all aspects return to their proper state, with fans and temperature functioning optimally.

From whence did you get yours? The Euro currency does not display any specific information. The GSF simply indicates that the product is of premium quality. However, during my last purchase from GSF, I received a Calorstat, which is generally known for its reliability. Unfortunately, I was unaware of the exact product I was being supplied with until I received it.

There is an issue with the parts supplier, specifically with the brand called Topran. Although they claim to provide original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts, I have personally experienced a scam from a supplier called Autodoc. They manipulated my order and substituted a part from a manufacturer called Stark, which is apparently a Chinese company owned by Autodoc. This deceptive practice has affected other customers as well, as indicated by online reports. Authorised retailers are now experiencing a total lack of inventory, with excessively extended waiting periods that are so uncertain that they cannot even provide an estimated restocking date.

I recently tested the alternate sensor by connecting it while leaving it suspended in the open air, without enclosing it in its protective shell. The temperature stayed stable and the fans did not activate, thereby confirming its functionality. I have attempted to detach the functional sensor from its previous housing, but it is firmly stuck and resistant to removal. Consequently, the sensor in the vehicle is likely to provide the same challenge. There is a possibility of damaging the sensor's socket if I persist in trying to remove it. Therefore, it seems that the most viable solution is to replace the whole housing unit with a new one.

This morning, I inserted the key into the ignition and turned it on without starting the engine. Immediately, the temperature readout rapidly increased to 90 degrees Celsius. The first phase was challenging, indicating a potential issue with the temperature sensor. This might result in incorrect fuel settings as the engine is really cold, while the computer incorrectly assumes it has reached operating temperature. I will attempt to use the other sensor on Sunday. I performed a scan of the air conditioning system pressure, as previously recommended, and the readout indicates a pressure of 3 bar.

However, it is important to note that the temperature sensor is not affected by any interference that might potentially distort the temperature readings.

Tell me about LIN.