Rashman4u

They are universally same regardless of location. Corrosion and expansion of the shaft often occur on the back, leading to rust and swelling of the ring. The front components may experience failure, but to a lesser extent, since the ring is integrated into the hub/bearing and is not exposed to the same level of moisture due to its internal positioning.

The sensor will remain functional even when placed under the washer. Will not modify anything else.

One of the ABS sensors is causing the issue. The driver side rear wheel is shown when the speedometer stops functioning. To troubleshoot and provide a temporary solution, remove the sensor and reattach it with a washer placed between the sensor and hub. This will create a little gap between the sensor and reluctor ring. The ring expands and captures the sensor. If the temporary solution is successful, a new sensor and reluctor ring will be required.

If something seems too favourable, it is likely to be deceptive or misleading. On one occasion, I informed a friend that I had come across a Ferrari that was within my financial means, maybe a 348 model. His advise was astute - if you lack the financial means to operate a new one, you certainly lack the financial means to operate a low-cost one! However, it is impossible to predict with certainty.

It is important to note that the E-class convertible, known as the Mercedes designation A207, was actually built on the C-class platform, rather than the real E-class W212.

As an update, I successfully replaced just the temperature sensor. In the original Mercedes model, I had difficulty in removing the sensor. However, I saw that the sensor in this Calorstat model had the ability to rotate. Therefore, I attempted to remove it and succeeded. Consequently, I proceeded to replace the sensor, resulting in a successful outcome. Subsequently, once this occurs, all aspects return to their proper state, with fans and temperature functioning optimally.

From whence did you get yours? The Euro currency does not display any specific information. The GSF simply indicates that the product is of premium quality. However, during my last purchase from GSF, I received a Calorstat, which is generally known for its reliability. Unfortunately, I was unaware of the exact product I was being supplied with until I received it.

There is an issue with the parts supplier, specifically with the brand called Topran. Although they claim to provide original equipment manufacturer (OEM) parts, I have personally experienced a scam from a supplier called Autodoc. They manipulated my order and substituted a part from a manufacturer called Stark, which is apparently a Chinese company owned by Autodoc. This deceptive practice has affected other customers as well, as indicated by online reports. Authorised retailers are now experiencing a total lack of inventory, with excessively extended waiting periods that are so uncertain that they cannot even provide an estimated restocking date.

I recently tested the alternate sensor by connecting it while leaving it suspended in the open air, without enclosing it in its protective shell. The temperature stayed stable and the fans did not activate, thereby confirming its functionality. I have attempted to detach the functional sensor from its previous housing, but it is firmly stuck and resistant to removal. Consequently, the sensor in the vehicle is likely to provide the same challenge. There is a possibility of damaging the sensor's socket if I persist in trying to remove it. Therefore, it seems that the most viable solution is to replace the whole housing unit with a new one.

This morning, I inserted the key into the ignition and turned it on without starting the engine. Immediately, the temperature readout rapidly increased to 90 degrees Celsius. The first phase was challenging, indicating a potential issue with the temperature sensor. This might result in incorrect fuel settings as the engine is really cold, while the computer incorrectly assumes it has reached operating temperature. I will attempt to use the other sensor on Sunday. I performed a scan of the air conditioning system pressure, as previously recommended, and the readout indicates a pressure of 3 bar.

However, it is important to note that the temperature sensor is not affected by any interference that might potentially distort the temperature readings.

Tell me about LIN.

The coolant temperature sensor is located inside the thermostat housing. I still possess the previous thermostat housing that I changed five years ago. I will attempt to transfer the sensor to the new housing when I get the opportunity.

Thank you for the advice so far. I do own the iCarsoft device. I will examine it. Meanwhile, I have once again entered the automobile, started its ignition, and a few seconds later, activated the fans. Subsequently, I saw that the temperature gauge rapidly rose to 90 degrees Celsius. then, it increased to a temperature of 120 degrees Celsius and then decreased to 90 degrees Celsius. Therefore, it is probable that the temperature sensor is the cause. What is your opinion, gentlemen?

Greetings, I have observed that the radiator fans on my E270 are operating continuously upon starting the vehicle. This occurs when the air conditioning and heating systems are both turned off. The engine temperature is within the typical range, and the coolant level is at an appropriate level. I have conducted a comprehensive check for fault codes and can confirm that everything is functioning properly. Do you have any recommendations? It is possible that the temperature transmitter for the fan is defective. Thank you.

When we installed the new discs and pads, it was a straightforward and standard procedure. The hubs exhibited no signs of rust, and all components disassembled and reassembled with great ease. The only components that are older in that area are the Idler arm bushing kit and the bearings. Inclined to substitute them.

I share the same sentiments. The old ones evoke a greater sense of unease, whereas the modern ones just elicit a little tremor. Do you have any suggestions for topics I should consider, you intelligent individuals? I now have available in my inventory replacement front bearings as well as the Idler arm bushing kit with the part number A1244600119. Additionally, a few steering damper is included. However, there are no apparent indications of any issues, and the whole lower part of the vehicle was replaced in 2017, which was 70,000 km ago.

Agreed with everything. What about my ATE discs? Are they made in China? I currently have the rear ones in my inventory.

They are rather recent. And I hope that the original MB is not included.

We just replaced the brake discs and brake pads on my 1991 300CE. I purchased ATE discs. We detected a shiver when braking, leading us to conclude that the discs were deformed. However, there is still a little tremor, but much diminished. Are the new discs defective? Feasible, I presume. The MB discs were twice as expensive, so I opted for a more affordable option. I am now experiencing feelings of remorse. I previously seen a video on the internet. I like Porsche over Mercedes-Benz. They conducted tests on three types of discs: Porsche, mid-range German (Brembo, Zimmermann?). I cannot recall the specific details of (Don't remember) and Monroe. Monroe's financial status was impoverished, while the mid-range option was satisfactory. However, only the Porsche was really devoid of any trembling or vibration.

Which fuel type should I choose: diesel or petrol? Is it possible that the turbocharger is not functioning optimally?

I opted for NGK spark plugs as replacements for all of my vehicles. I have never had any problems with NGK. I am unable to provide any input or opinion about the fuel sensor.

There is an issue with your car's online MOT results. The available records only date back to 2005, not 2015. Upon inspection, I have verified that my 1997 SL and many other automobiles I had in the past are included in the records starting from 2005 forward. As far as I know, the system also accommodates changes in the registration number when doing a search using the existing registration.

Instead of eBay, there is a well-maintained 560 SEC that will be featured at the next Mathewsons sale. The estimated amount is between £38,000 and £40,000. There is a 10-year period in the MOT history when no records are available, spanning from 2005 (with 44,000 miles) to 2015 (with 65,000 miles). However, the records become consistent from that point forward. Could it have been used internationally? https://www.mathewsons.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-577---1991-mercedes-560-sec-auto/?lot=26508&so=0&st=sec&sto=0&au=68&ef=&et=&ic=False&sd=0&pp=48&pn=1&g=1

Yes. Over the years, I have extensively performed this work on my l322. I paid far less than that. I want to own receipts. In simple terms, I would have given away the automobile only if its value exceeded 4-5k.