Chrishazle

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I am now present at my workplace, where I serve as a coach driver. If I find the inclination tomorrow morning, I may capture a few photographs.

I would abstain from doing so. The central console may be disassembled into two sections: the cup holder portion and the heater section. My box is located underneath this assembly. Adjacent to the heating unit, there exists a pleasant square configuration of modest dimensions, adequately allowing the insertion of a loom. I had similar challenges and found it necessary to take a temporary break in order to prevent a potential loss of coherence or understanding.

The method used was the utilization of a metallic coat hanger, with the approach being executed from the rear of the heating controls.

solved, thanks a bunch

My 2014 cla has an ntg 4.5 headunit that I've been trying to figure out how to get behind. It's very hard to find a comfortable working position, and I'm wondering whether removing the glovebox would give me access to the area behind the radio. Everything else about the unit and the screen is stock, and I'm ready to install an apple carplay box, but I need to get behind to shift the loom around so that the radio fits back in its ultimate location. cheers

It is recommended that you see his Craigslist photographs, my friend.

Appearing aesthetically pleasing

In reference to the aforementioned stock item pertaining to the rear anti-lock braking system (ABS) pulse speed sensors. I have ceased my pursuit of an alternate option as I have successfully located a limited quantity of the desired item in inventory. I approached an astute individual at the BMW dealership in my vicinity, requesting their assistance in compiling a comprehensive list of part numbers associated with all e31 models. Subsequently, I proposed the notion of cross-referencing these part numbers, and to our mutual astonishment, it was revealed that they all corresponded to the Bosch part numbers, which incidentally align with the components suitable for my 840Ci M60. Curiously, these same components are denoted as being compatible with the 840i model. I have just acquired two components from Germany intended for the front, and have subsequently placed an order for the left and right counterparts to be used for the rear. If there is any individual who has an interest, I possess the corresponding Bosch component numbers that may be used for the purpose of placing an order. In Germany, BMW has a total of 10 positions available for those aligned with right-wing ideologies and 25 positions available for individuals aligned with left-wing ideologies. Electronic sensors were installed on the 850CSi, however they are functionally identical to those found on earlier models, although sourced from a different supplier.

Do you continue to have difficulties in locating the rear anti-lock braking system (ABS) pulse speed sensors? I am now encountering a similar issue, but with some progress made towards identifying a resolution. As an engineer, I am collaborating with a colleague who manages two automotive repair facilities, both of whom are equally committed to assisting me in identifying an alternate solution. Our plan entails removing the existing sensor from the axle and examining it firsthand, with the intention of finding a suitable replacement. The findings will be posted after the solution has been identified. I have been in possession of my 1994 M60 840Ci for a period of 21 years, and I now have no plans to engage in the act of selling it.

Are you referring to the reconstruction of the clutch or the whole reconstruction of the transmission?

The decision was made to retain the old starting relay/solenoid during the installation of the high torque starter. A readily producible "10G" jumper wire was necessary for the installation of the new starter. I wish you success in your endeavor with the WASP starter. I appreciate the recent advancements in starting technology, particularly the development of smaller and lighter variants that exhibit enhanced torque output.

It is my belief that the inclusion of the navigation system in cars manufactured after 2017 is contingent upon activation, unless it was acquired at the time of purchase. BMW transitioned from an initial activation charge to a monthly subscription model and now claims to provide its services at no cost. Is Apple CarPlay available in BMW vehicles? Can it be added? The Car Investor is a platform that focuses on providing academic insights and analysis related to the automotive industry. If the USB port has a charging capacity of 2 Amps or more, it may be used for plug-and-play functionality.

I am now addressing a similar problem with the Rover SD1 Vitesse engine in my TVR 350i. I thought you would find this PistonHeads site useful. Wedges - PistonHeads UK - Page 1 - Possible Head Gasket Failure If you have basic technical skills, removing the heads from a P6V8 engine is not a tough process.

Noted. I was hoping to keep from repeating myself too often.

Is it possible for an administrator to relocate this thread to the A6 C7 section?

What's up, My Audi A6 allroad from 2015 has a 3.0 tdi 218 horsepower engine, and it's giving me some strange trouble. I purchased this vehicle in November of 2018, and throughout that time I had zero problems. The top oil cooler gasket began leaking initially, signaling the beginning of the engine's problems. It was suspected that coolant was low, so we added water until we could have a new oil cooler and gasket installed in service. Error codes were shown on the dashboard at the time, and when the oil cooler was changed, the problem went away. The oil was also completely replaced as part of the servicing. I finally reached the city after 40 kilometers, but while waiting at a red light, the engine died. I was in Sport Mode when this occurred, and as I accelerated to start the car, the engine revved quite high, even though I did not floor the foot. From that point on, I was unable to turn the vehicle back on. I contacted a towing service and had it delivered to the garage. The Denso starting was the first thing they noticed was broken; the motor had apparently stopped and the starter was unable to get it going. The destruction is visible down here. We swapped in a new component and had the men try to physically move the motor to rule out a problem with the motor itself. They decided to open the motor to check for internal damage since the motion was off. When they performed this, as you can see down below, they discovered metal fragments in the motor's oil pan. These metal pieces had originally been part of the crankshaft's bearings (if that's the right name for the pieces that look like a circle cut in half), but they became affixed to the shaft, swapped positions, and began rotating in unison with the crankshaft. You can see the removed pieces here. The following steps were made at this time: 1. The bearing surface was corrected and new bearings were fitted on the crankshaft after it was measured to ensure it is straight. Second, the whole oil system was overhauled, including the oil cooler, oil pump, gaskets, and oil. Since the front section of the car was taken apart, the tempomat had to be recalibrated once the engine was put back together. Since this is something that can only be done by an Audi repair center, they drove my vehicle there to be recalibrated. I requested a motor diagnostic to check for any error codes or other issues that their computer system would detect but my service would not. The results of the diagnosis turned up absolutely nothing. After finishing up, I took the vehicle out for a spin and put in around 300 kilometers of driving over city, highway, and "sport" modes. It sounded like the engine was running smoothly and efficiently, and it performed well. Since the winter season arrived and temperatures dropped below zero, the engine developed a little lateral shaking when started from cold. After two to three minutes, this would go away and wouldn't come back until the computer was restarted from cold. The same thing occurred with my old 2.0 TFSI A3 for the whole 11 years I had it. My vehicle began shaking more intensely, to the point where I could feel it, after just 30 kilometers of a lengthier journey I took yesterday. I pulled over to the shoulder and put the vehicle in N. The shaking persisted, and there was also a strange knocking sound, as if someone were knocking on a piece of plastic with his finger. After discussing the aforementioned difficulties with the repair department, I towed the vehicle back there on a trailer. There was no error code in the computer, and the oil filter, which had previously included tiny bits of metal, had such particles once again, leading me to believe that the same issue had occurred. When it originally occurred, they didn't pinpoint the root reason, but they did speculate that a problem existed with the oil pressure sensor or the oil pump. I would expect a system fault to have occurred if one of these failed. When this happened the first time, they replaced the pump and the pressure sensor, but the issue persisted. My automobile has gone from 150,000 miles when I got it in Germany to 170,000 miles now that I've owned it for a little over two years. Since it has only had one previous owner and has been well maintained by an Audi service center in Hamburg, I have no reason to worry about the mileage. In addition, over these two years, the automobile was serviced every 15,000 kilometers as recommended by the owner's handbook. I looked for other people who had experienced the same situation on the boards but came up empty. I'm hoping someone can either direct us or offer us a suggestion as to what we should look for. Since I have access to and am familiar with the service, I can provide just about any data or other information that could be requested by the tester.

Maybe not the heels, but I saw what looked like marks on the carpet from them.

Sending my S63 in for maintenance at the factory today. Checked up on Mercedes-me to check whether the job was done. They were definitely working on it since the doors and windows were unlocked and open. Please educate me as to the rationale for the open windows. This is something I observed last year, so it must have some significance. Any thoughts, fellas??????? Loaner vehicle was a brand-new CLA 200, which is zippy but too sporty for me. It features a "gauge" in the middle of the cluster that displays mpg and a charging area, however the latter only activates when the driver is coasting downhill with their foot off the accelerator. I have no idea what role it plays. I was afraid they could have handed me a battery-operated gadget. I wish I could have at least tried one out for a day, but I have no desire to acquire one. Gasoline is the fuel of the future.

Here we are again asking the same thing. Do you know for sure that the Nox sensors in this gasoline m276 engine do not need a SCN recode or ECU update? Changing the sponsors and erasing the error messages should get me back on track, right? I'm asking again since I just replaced two Nox sensors (both used from eBay) and I'm still experiencing issues. Mercedes informed me they need to be coded, but after driving about for a while I was able to get the error messages back up. I was wondering whether it was the Nox sensor or something else in bank 2 that was causing the issue, as I know the one in bank 1 works.

I appreciate the detailed response, but I have a feeling that some of it was intended for diesel engines. My vehicle is powered by a 3.5-liter V6 gasoline engine. Does it also need SCN encoding?

Also, how big of a torque difference would there be if I used this offset socket? Because of the misalignment, it may be able to provide somewhat greater torque than the torque wrench.

I appreciate your reply. I was not aware of the significance of the SCN code. Let me ask you a few questions then. Some time ago, the NOx sensor on bank 1 failed. A local repair shop had it almost brand new when I discovered it. He probably just fixed the mistakes. The bank 2 NOx sensor was defective again after 500 miles, according to the error message. Using the same independent garage, I purchased a secondhand NOx sensor on eBay (it's possible the mechanic doesn't have star or didn't disclose it), and I had it replaced. At the 500-mile mark, I was met with the identical issue at bank 2. Today, a buddy and I planned to swap out our NOx sensors, but we discovered that the torque wrench wouldn't fit, necessitating the use of an offset lamda socket. But if it requires programming, then I could make the same mistake again if I switch out the sensor. Do you know how much a dealer would charge to put the software in for you?