Chrishazle

It is advisable to enquire with BMW, however I would not anticipate a favourable outcome. Please inform us of their response.

Have the valve stem seals been replaced yet? At this age or mileage, the replacement of the valve stem seals will be necessary. They solidify and begin to leak from all the vehicles. Substantial white smoke will be seen at idle after the engine and exhaust have reached operating temperature. Numerous videos demonstrate how to do it. You must remove the cameras. The majority of individuals substitute the timing chain and the plastic timing chain guide concurrently. A prevalent source of burning oil and/or smoke at idle is a torn PCV valve diaphragm. When the engine is idling, removing the oil fill cap should create a little suction that may be felt if you cover the opening with your palm. If the cap is firmly secured or there is significant suction, it is likely a defective PCV. The valve cover has channels and valves that segregate oil from vapour, necessitating the replacement of the complete valve cover to remove the PCV diaphragm. A new orange rubber diaphragm is available as a Chinese aftermarket component to substitute just that portion of the PCV if it is cracked or perforated.

I have own my E200 for 27 years, and throughout my investigation on YouTube, I saw remarks about the smaller nearside wing mirror. I then recognised that I use the nearside wing mirror as a parking help while manoeuvring it into my garage. If the wing mirror clears the garage door post when seen from the back, I will avoid damaging the bodywork. Furthermore, since the wing mirror is positioned on the nearside, it is less likely to collide with other wing mirrors in congested traffic scenarios or be struck by people when parked next to the pavement. I see that several automakers have now included folding wing mirrors; maybe Mercedes-Benz was more progressive than previously assumed.

The garage has identified the fundamental problem as the oil cooler. Upon removal, all the piping connected to it and the hollow inside the water jacket were filled with granular sand. Not a little amount - a significant quantity. This has resulted in increased pressure, leading to the rupture of the cooler. Upon inspection, it is neither magnetic nor metallic and resembles no component of the engine. I have driven 30,000 miles in the automobile over the last year, therefore I am familiar with its history for that duration. During this period, it has had an oil change and had the serpentine belt changed; no other maintenance has been performed. There is no functionality in the cooling system whatsoever. Do you have any recommendations on its potential nature? It is suggested that a radweld product, such as Bars Leak, may have been excessively applied prior to my ownership, which is a plausible theory; nevertheless, it is peculiar that it functioned well for 30,000 miles before the issues arose. The one option I can conceive is that something was intentionally inserted into the coolant system; however, no one has approached the vehicle except for those I trust. Does anybody have more insights on its potential nature? Thank you.

That is rather ominous. I am unfamiliar with the concept, yet I can see its potential efficacy. Individuals consistently astonish!

That is logical. The compression check of the garages confirms the integrity of the combustion chambers; however, it does not address any leaks in the gasket between oil and water, nor does it indicate the presence of a cracked block or head in that area. The assembly is mostly disassembled; is there a method to inspect the water jacket for leaks? It is conceivable to reconnect the water hose to both the inlet and outlet of the block and conduct a pressure test; however, this would also result in leakage via the oil cooler, thereby failing to identify the source of the leak. The only method to ascertain is to visually inspect the head gasket, provided the oil cooler is intact and functioning properly. The coolant is certainly not old, since I verified the level and replenished it two weeks before. It is beneficial to be informed, however. We will verify that it is not gearbox oil; if it seems not to be, we will proceed with the oil cooler and hope that is the issue. If unsuccessful, it is time for decapitation. Thank you!

Thank you for the excellent answer. I really appreciate it. That is helpful information. Notably, there is an absence of any emulsion. When I state that the expansion tank is filled with oil, I refer to genuine engine oil, characterised by a viscous and dark appearance. No creamy emulsion whatsoever. This leads me to believe that it happened just a few miles prior to the 'check coolant' alert at beginning. My hypothesis at this juncture is that the oil cooler ruptured, causing the oil to rise and be 'skimmed off' into the uppermost section - the expansion tank. The engine was thereafter turned off as we only do brief trips. Consequently, the waterways are mostly devoid of content. This may be complete rubbish, but it is my most informed conjecture at now.

The garage reported doing a compression test and determined that the cylinder head gasket was intact (or at least the components of the combustion chamber were). The coolant system seems to have a leak, since it is saturated with oil, indicating a rupture inside the system; thus, it is uncertain if the system can maintain pressure at this time. It is mostly dismantled, complicating further testing. I find it difficult to accept that the oil could be gearbox oil. The engine oil is jet black and seems clean and healthy, having been recently changed. Based on my understanding, the gearbox oil is either green or greenish-blue, but not black. A basic dipstick would indicate the oil colour in the gearbox; however, as the mechanism is 'sealed for life,' it is said that no dipstick is provided. There exists a dipstick tube for the ATF located to the left of the engine oil, but it is sealed. I learnt via my preferred AI (Pi) that an ATF dipstick with component number 722589012100 exists; however, Mercedes dealers declined to sell it, citing it as a 'workshop tool.' Nonetheless, it is available for purchase online. Does anybody have experience utilising the ATF dipstick on the OM651 / 722.6 gearbox? I have purchased the Febi Bilstein component and will inform you of its efficacy. If it works, it will enable me to verify the colour of the gearbox oil and ascertain its contamination status. What is your opinion? Could jet black fresh oil really be gearbox oil? I believe not. In summary, at this juncture: - I doubt it is gearbox oil due to the oil's hue (therefore, not from the gearbox oil cooler). - The head gasket around the combustion chambers is intact based on the compression test; nevertheless, there may be a leak in the gasket between the oil and water passages. - It may result in a catastrophic fracture of the block or skull. Nonetheless, it may only be the oil cooler. The garage said that they did not believe the waterways were polluted; but, due to the significant presence of oil in the coolant, it would be unusual for any rivers to remain untainted and clean, since the oil would circulate throughout the engine. The vehicle had a new oil and filter two weeks ago, and there was no oil contamination in the coolant at that time. Given that it has been driven only few kilometres subsequently, it is possible that the waterways have not yet been obstructed. I must decide whether to instruct the shop to proceed with the oil cooler repair. If it is determined that the issue is neither the oil cooler nor the gearbox oil cooler, I feel that the cylinder head must be removed to examine the remaining components. However, to access the head gasket, all components necessary for reaching the oil cooler must be removed regardless. I need to ascertain if the oil in the expansion tank is for the transmission or the engine before instructing the service to proceed. Is this coherent? Thank you!

Greetings everyone, I need assistance, please. My 2010 S212 E250CDI, with 106,000 km, has a radiator expansion tank filled with oil. Two weeks ago, it certainly did not, as I verified the levels before to a trip. I discovered it because, when starting, a coolant level alert appeared for the first time, and upon inspection, it was all oil. If the low coolant level alert was caused by the oil, it occurred just on the previous trip. My first assumption was an oil cooler issue, prompting me to have it towed to the mechanic, which shared the same opinion. They started removing the components and discovered that, in fact, there was no water in the engine oil; more perplexingly, there was an absence of oil in the water tubes around the oil cooler. Their determination is that the oil cooler is not the issue. I inspected the automobile, and they said that the oil cooler is rather fresh, despite my ownership of the vehicle for just one year. The current assessment indicates that the oil cooler is unlikely to be the cause, given there is no oil present in the surrounding water pipes, nor is there any water in the oil. The conduit going to the apex of the expansion tank, referred to as the bleed line in the attached picture labelled '250', was saturated with oil upon disconnection. Conversely, the terminal end connecting to the upper section of the radiator exhibited little oil residue. However, because the oil level exceeded this point, it may have drained back down rather than entering via that location. The origin of the oil remains unknown. Upon examining the oil in the expansion tank, it has been suggested that it may be gearbox oil; however, I disagree with this assessment. The oil is pitch black, devoid of emulsion, and flows freely. Even accounting for the darkening of ATF oil with time, I would be astonished to see it as jet black and appearing healthy. They believe the gearbox oil cooler in the radiator may have ruptured; however, due to the jet black colouration, I remain sceptical and would value your opinion. We have suspended the work while we investigate the issue. What alternatives exist if the oil cooler is not the issue? Choices: Head gasket: I suspect it is not the issue, since there is a significant amount of oil in the expansion tank. The tank was filled to the screw lid. There was no emulsion or milkiness, leading me to believe it would be otherwise. No smoke of any colour was seen; it operated well while being driven aboard the rescue vehicle. Gearbox Oil Cooler in Radiator: I doubt it, since it was clean and black (it was replaced a few months ago), but is there gearbox oil that like that? The gearbox oil was replenished during an automatic gearbox service six months ago. Is it still possible for it to be ATF? Can a block break in such a manner that oil seeps into the water jacket while preventing water from entering the oil? Are there more possible causes? The garage has halted work as they do not believe the issue is the oil cooler, given that the surrounding pipes are not accessible. The vehicle has not been completely disassembled to reach it, but it will need a few hours to reassemble for operation. Do you have suggestions for verifying contamination in gearbox oil? As a hermetically sealed machine, there seems to be no sump drain or accessible filler, preventing us from evaluating the condition of the gearbox fluid. Is there a method to lower the sealed filler pipe? Can the oil in the expansion tank be ATF if it appears black? Can you provide a method to refine the study to ascertain the source of this issue? I would really appreciate any advice you may have. The garage is uncertain and first proposed a top-end overhaul, then recommending a new gearbox. It seems they are also uninformed on this matter. Any assistance you may provide would be profoundly appreciated.

The system is quite complex, suggesting the presence of two sensors or motors on each side, or maybe control modules. Circuit/System Specification Every headlight assembly includes a headlamp levelling actuator regulated by the headlamp levelling switch. The headlight levelling switch receives ignition voltage and ground, including a resistor ladder with four settings allowing vertical adjustment of the lights. Upon activation of the headlight levelling switch to the specified position, power from the B+ ignition circuit is diminished via the resistor ladder, subsequently supplying electricity to the left and right headlamp levelling actuators via the headlamp levelling control circuits. The headlight levelling actuators receive B+ and ground connections. Upon activation of the headlamp levelling switch, the left and right headlight levelling actuators adjust the headlamps to the specified position.

The Astra J or K, 66 plate, might potentially be either model. Halogen or LED lighting?

The engine operates in accordance with the tachometer; this includes the engine check light, the engaged brakes and the low fuel signal. The moss on the front grille indicates it has been stationary for an extended period.

Opt for a cream-coloured outfit, as it will seem aesthetically pleasing. However, it is advisable to avoid wearing jeans, particularly new ones, since they may leave stains on the seats that are difficult to remove.

The alteration occurred in 2016, and I lack sufficient knowledge about ATF to determine the extent of its degradation over time. I am located in close proximity to Ascot, which is situated to the west of London. Star Services Reading seems to be the closest expert to me, unless you have a suggestion? Thank you.

I will get them examined since I was not aware that they may potentially cause problems. It didn't occur to me since it hasn't been present on any of my other vintage "Sunday" autos. Would it clarify the conduct that occurs only when the temperature is warm or hot? I appreciate your suggestion.

Thank you. I assume that the fluid has deteriorated, but it is important verifying to rule out any other potential issues. The lack of performance in low temperatures may indicate a decrease in viscosity when the automatic gearbox fluid (ATF) is heated. The gearbox of the vehicle has a complete maintenance history, as shown by the Digital SR, which shows that it was serviced at 37000. Therefore, it may be somewhat overdue for maintenance, but not excessively so. Greetings

Furthermore, this likely affirms that the 50,000-mile, 2009 SL350 I purchased has been very light on problems, since it is referred to as "SuperLicht". 🙂 Both the rotted-out fuel line and the minor C pillar leak were repaired inexpensively. Nevertheless, I must mention that I saw a gearbox problem during kickdown for the first time yesterday. The gear shifts, both up and down, are very smooth with regular use. Even when applying significant force, the transition between gears is smooth. Occasionally, there may be a little, clumsy downshift while the vehicle is warm. Engage the kickdown feature to experience forceful and impactful gear transitions. When starting from a complete stop, the P and D gears engage smoothly and without any noise or difficulty. During regular driving, there are no unexpected gear changes or instances when the gear is held in place. Has anybody encountered this previously? After doing an extensive search through the discussions, I have not come across any comparable information. The vehicle has not had an ATF replacement, and I am curious whether the issue is just due to the oil losing its viscosity when heated, resulting in occasional rough downshifts while the vehicle is warm. Can anybody provide insights into the possible reason or share their experience with a similar issue? Thank you

Based on my understanding, it is permissible to use yellow Daytime Running Lights (DRLs) if the headlights and front side lights are also yellow. Yellow daytime running lights (DRLs) paired with white headlights would not comply with DVSA 4.2.3 regulations, thereby constituting a 'minor' fault during a MOT test. Prior to installing any modifications, such as the one mentioned, I would consult with my local and amicable MOT tester. This is especially important if the modification deviates from the standard complete yellow lighting, which is seen on vehicles that are originally equipped with them.

I lack expertise in the field of economics. Actually, I prefer purchasing at a high price and selling at a lower price. However, I am curious about the specific colour of the item in question. What is the colour of Panther Black Crystal?

There are two potential options. 1) The brakes are experiencing friction and resistance, even though they were found to be functioning properly after inspection. Conduct a test by driving a moderate distance without using the brakes and then monitor the temperatures after stopping with minimum braking. 2) The front brakes are insufficient. Conduct a test by inspecting the front brakes to ensure they are functioning correctly.

That is the circuit I would most likely use. However, I would do a thorough examination of those 'extra' slots by use a testlight in combination with a fuse diagram, and if possible, following Kenny's approach. To maintain simplicity.

There is no specific orientation available. When the fuse is removed, one connection will have an active electrical current on either the auxiliary or ignition circuit - depending on the circuit you have selected - while the other connector will not have any current. When inserting the add-a-fuse, ensure that the red wire is connected to the side of the fusebox connection that does not have an active electrical current. Next, insert the original fuse into the socket that has two spade connections, except the one with the red wire (a case of negative logic). This will reactivate the original regulated circuit. Insert the new 5 amp fuse into the alternate circuit, ensuring that it is connected to the red wire. This will activate your 'new' circuit and provide it with protection. Alternatively, you may follow Kenny's approach, which is my favourite choice if there happens to be an open slot in the fusebox.

Connect it by inserting the red wire into the fused side of the fusebox, specifically on the side where the old fuse is removed, known as the 'dead' side. If that is comprehensible. The original car fuse is inserted into the two connections that are furthest away from the red wire. The new circuit fuse is inserted into the connections that are in closest proximity to the red wire. Note that the two fuse connections are distinct and might contribute to the state of being perplexed.

The whole auditory experience was satisfactory. Except for the subwoofer. I am not an enthusiast of bass, yet the sound produced by the speaker is hardly imperceptible. There is a suggestion that the programme has been intentionally limited or restricted. I installed a £100 under-seat subwoofer under the passenger seat. Flawless.

I believe Ice Silver is referring to the frontal grilles and rear bumper segments. I am sceptical that the current colour is accurate, nevertheless, it seems to be a shade of silver or a deeper shade of grey. The primary paint used is Suzuka.