DSM10000

No flaps are necessary for the regeneration of my prior BMW diesels (M57, N47, and N57). There are never any DPF clogging problems!

It's important to note that the early n47 manifold is distinct from the n47n manifold. If you need a new cooler, you should do the same.

f you're not concerned with increasing your engine's output, you can save a few pounds by fixing the problem without removing the EGR system; instead, you can just clean the EGR valve and reinstall it onto the spruced-up cooler.

To deflap an N47 engine, just replace the gasket with a 318D model, which does not have the flaps but instead has a blank hole in the manifold. There is no need for a map. First, make sure the cooler's actuator isn't stuck. Next, check the vac pipe and flush the cooler to make sure it's not clogged. In addition, I would purchase a secondhand manifold and thoroughly clean it.

This is just a brief update. The problem was traced to the cam adjusters and a damaged rail guide.

You're falling into his prank. The pad incorporates a wire that serves as a wear indicator. After some use, the pad will wear down to the point where the wire will touch the disc, completing the circuit and turning on the light. You may disable the light by severing it or replacing it with pads that do not contain it.

Oh, my, that's so timeless!

Hello, I had BMW change out the front brake discs and pads, and it seemed to do the trick. The previous owner had them all replaced at BMW, so they were delighted to do it under warranty. Changing the bush in the steering rack eliminated the judder. When it comes to replacement components, I've only ever used OEM BMW parts. I would have replaced them out myself with Zimmerman components if BMW hadn't done it for free under warranty.

I value your input and time.

Hi everybody, My first BMW, from a private seller, arrived today. Almost everything about my 2016 BMW F31 335d xDrive excites me. I was hoping to get some feedback on a somewhat little but possibly serious problem: The pulsation can be felt through the brake pedal, the steering wheel, and, to a lesser extent, the entire vehicle; it occurs at a frequency of about 3hz, which is significantly slower than the rotation of the brake disc around its axis; it occurs only when the brake pedal is gently applied rather than firmly; it occurs only when braking rather than engine braking or decelerating; it occurs only between 30 and 20 miles per hour; it does not occur when accelerating; it does not occur I hope that wasn't too much knowledge to take in, but I've read a lot about deformed brake discs and have a hard time believing they'd only be noticeable between 30 and 20 mph. I took it to a repair shop, but they weren't very helpful; they said it may be the front or rear brakes or the front suspension. Additionally, I have tried burnishing the brakes by doing 5 consecutive 70-20 strong braking events with no success. It's probably unrelated, however when the engine is turned off and the steering wheel is turned beyond the center point in either direction, a clunk can be heard from the steering rack. If anybody has had this issue before or has any other information, I would really appreciate hearing from you. In gratitude

That's of no importance. Google "FCP Euro," which is a company that is now operating in the United States; after reading about their lifetime replacement promise, you should then question "what's the catch?" During my most recent two trips to the United States, I made several purchases from them; yet, for reasons that are self-evident, I am unlikely to be in a position to accept their offer. What is their secret to success? I'm not sure, but if you want to avoid going to court in the United States of America, you shouldn't make promises of this kind and then fail to keep them. In my experience with FCP, you have to purchase specific pieces and then install them manually on your hard drive. If they get worn out, FCP will provide you with replacements at no additional cost.

Hello, Everyone. A 2015 E220 AMG Night Edition Estate is now in my possession. There is a problem with the middle lid of the console on the passenger side. This is held by a clip that is not very interesting. I was wondering whether anybody else has had this issue, and if so, what steps have you taken to fix it? On the humorous side of things. I made a solemn vow to myself when I was "coming of age" that I would never acquire a vehicle with leather seats, an automatic transmission, or a Mercedes Benz:cool:. I am now the proud owner of all 3 in one, and I adore this vehicle. Many thanks

Since the OP hasn't been on since writing, I don't think he or she will see any answers.

This one is hard, but here's what I think. Did you run over something hard and sharp enough to puncture the sump? This would cause the engine to stop working and oil to leak out. The insurance might pay for this. You need to show that your going off the road and the engine breaking down are connected. This is where things get tricky, because these engines are known for breaking down suddenly and badly. This engine failure is likely to have happened even if you hadn't had to move out of the way of another car. Even longer warranties don't cover these engine problems, and LR denies there's a problem, even though people who know what they're talking about know otherwise. I think the insurance company will try to get out of all responsibility, which is what will happen unless you can show otherwise. In this case, I think the insurance company will say that the fact that a known technical flaw happened right after your off-road trip was just a coincidence.

Hello, I'm a female motorist who knows nothing about cars, engines, etc., so I'd appreciate some assistance or advice. I own a 2011 Landrover discovery Landmark with a 3ltr engine and a lengthy service record (mostly performed by Landrover). Earlier in the year, I was driving home on a country road with screaming children and loud music to drown them out when I encountered a large car travelling at approximately 60 miles per hour. I braked hard and drove my car up onto the country verge, which you can imagine had bushes and other obstacles on it. When it became apparent that the sound was emanating from my car, I turned down the radio to confirm, and I thought I must have struck the dirt flap onto the tyre, but then the car shut down. The AA eventually came to my aid (another tale) and towed the vehicle to my local, highly reputable garage. The AA lad did inform me that the engine was frozen and that there was oil underneath it, which is never a positive sign. The garage also informed me that the car's engine and undercarriage were seized. After detailing what had occurred, I was instructed to contact the insurance company, which was not in my name. This was a lengthy process, but the car was eventually returned to them. The vehicle was then subjected to a diagnostic examination, which revealed the following: "Non-Start Metal in oil filter SUSPECT engine failure vehicle not in shop to perform full VHC" After months of silence from the insurance company and hundreds of hours of phone calls, they have returned to say that they will not cover the cost of the engine because it was mechanical and not accident-related. kudos if you're still paying attention... my concern is, are they tuning out? How can I prove the relationship between the engine and the accident if they deny it? what are my subsequent steps?

You should be aware that the criteria that bike helmets must meet vary greatly from those that vehicle helmets must meet. In my opinion, I would rather wear a vehicle helmet when driving. The current MSA standards are as follows: (a) ALL MSA EVENTS AND INTERNATIONAL EVENTS. FIA 8860-2004. FIA 8860-2010. SA2010 SNELL. SA2005 SNELL. The SNELL SA2000*. SNELL SAH2010 and SNELL SA2010. 31.1A and 31.2A of the SFI Foundation. *BS 6658 Type A/FR**Withdrawal is possible as of January 1, 2015.Withdrawal is possible as of January 1, 2016. These are from the Yearbook for 2014. Another piece of advise I would provide is to make sure it fits. If you're searching for one for trackdays, you should choose one that satisfies current MSA criteria. Then, if you ever decide to compete, it will be OK, but it will also have a fire-resistant lining.

Thankyou. I had an x1 before this one, and they recalled it, installed a new map, and voided the remap. They also declined my request for a vehicle loan. It doesn't specify what the recall is for, so I have no idea whether it's related to my safety. My best guess is that it's the same recall that the X1 had.

Is there a way to save the car's navigation data? There will be a recall soon, and all the data on it will be deleted.

Hi Both sources state that it has 258 horsepower. My bum, though, tells me there's more Does 320 horsepower on the sports computer always equal Stage 1 320 bhp? Thanks

Hi I just got this, so I'm sure I'll be writing about it. It's a 2014, and it's more quicker than I expected; also, the sports display may reach 320bhp at times; I previously had an x1, and the sports metre appeared true. Is the large blue callipers with m logos on the vehicle an upgrade? Do you think the sports metre is accurate?

Before condemning the bottom end, try measuring manually or installing a replacement pressure sensor.