DSM10000

I believe I need a device with an independent 12V power supply, since I doubt that these USB dongles can transmit phantom power, unless there exists a method to provide that power via an adapter. I have seen such adapters for FM antennas, but not for freestanding DAB units.

Excellent observation I had not contemplated it, and really, it is accurate and rather unwise. I am quite enticed by the glass mount; nevertheless, £70 is exorbitant if it proves to be no superior than a £20 internal film option. Additionally, I was attracted to the advertisement's statement: "If using with a DAB device featuring a switchable 12v phantom feed down the coaxial cable, ensure that this is activated." I am uncertain if this USB dongle has one; do you believe it would still function without one?

I own a 2006 W203 C180 equipped with an aftermarket Android head unit, namely from Eonon, which has functioned impeccably for 2.5 years despite being of Chinese origin. The device has a DAB dongle; but, despite being situated in an area with adequate reception, I am experiencing difficulties in obtaining a signal. I would appreciate any advice on how to continue. Here are the attempts I have made so far: I first attempted to use a splitter from the vehicle's integrated antenna (standard W203 amplified antenna located in the rear window region). The splitter proved to be futile. I then used a magnetic antenna from Halfords affixed to the boot lid, with the wire routed to the front. Initially, it received 87 stations with full signal, with just typical dropouts; but, after many months, it corroded below and became mostly ineffective. My local auto specialist advised me to opt for window-mounted film options; however, I previously used one in another vehicle, which proved unsatisfactory. It was an inexpensive model, and perhaps I should consider a higher-quality version with its own 12V power supply. Nonetheless, I remain sceptical about the overall efficacy of window-mounted film solutions. I have been examining this item, which is costly although intriguing and straightforward to install; nonetheless, I do not comprehend its functionality. Another alternative I am considering is installing an exterior roof-mounted type, positioned on the boot lid in a shark fin configuration. A new head unit is forthcoming, and upon its arrival, I will install a reverse camera. Consequently, I will be disassembling the boot trim, allowing me to conveniently drill a hole for the aerial and run the wires alongside those of the reverse camera. I would appreciate insights on optimising the performance of my new device, which is fully equipped with advanced features, to ensure every element functions well.

It is really complex, one of the few matters for which I consult an independent mechanic. The cost difference relative to DIY is minimal.

I apologise for the typographical error about the year. The year is, in fact, 2010. I have purchased a gearbox undertray labelled A212202723, however the technician saw that the fittings were incompatible when the vehicle was elevated on the hoist. MB indicates that the number linked to my vehicle is A2125201723. Several breakers yards have proposed components that they claim to be compatible, however I am quite dubious after my experience with the last one.

Greetings to everyone Can somebody inform me whether any other models of gearbox undertray covers are suitable with other vehicles? I own a defective component with Part No. A2125201723 from my vehicle and need a replacement. I have received many replacement offers, although I am certain that the gearbox undertrays are exclusive to certain vehicle types. Any assistance or information would be appreciated.

I regret to learn of your experiences. I must assert that I do not encounter the negative issues reported by certain CX-60 drivers. The discrepancies do not seem to manifest in all CX-60 models. My vehicle does not exhibit any sound issues, fuel consumption is rather reasonable for a big automobile, steering performance is satisfactory after the manufacturer recall, and I received new rear suspension along with ten complimentary software upgrades. I am a satisfied owner and driver of the CX-60. There may be a quality control problem at Mazda.

Thank you for your response. Individuals would manoeuvre around us in the ancient vehicle, which produced an engine noise. They possess no justification at this moment!

I need to have specified that it is a hybrid. I have conversed with the dealer, who asserts that all are now engaging in this practice. I am astonished that there are not other complaints. The individual I conversed with advised use the engine for reversing rather than the batteries, however I have yet to ascertain the method. He instructed to activate the EV button, but it was unresponsive. Thank you.

Thank you for the kind welcome and response. I was enquiring if there was a setting I overlooked. It seems peculiar due to its excessive volume. My neighbor's Volvo electric emits a little sound while reversing, however mine produces a continuous beep in reverse. I will see the dealer this week.

I just purchased a 2024 Nissan Juke Automatic Tekna+ and have observed that it emits a loud beep while in reverse. Internally, it seems loud; but, outside, it is louder than a truck. I futilely perused the handbook and settings, since everything is unfamiliar to me. Otherwise, the vehicle is excellent. Does anybody have suggestions for disabling it? Thank you

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I suspect they used an old gasket with sealant. They get brittle during heat cycles and should constantly be changed; I never reuse them. I do not use sealer, since the rubber gasket is sufficient and BMW does not recommend its usage. Remember to acquire four new injector seals while replacing the gasket and ensure that the injectors are reinserted into their original cylinders.

I had same issues with my last 330d when the intercooler-manifold angle pipe fractured. Subpar performance, excessive black smoke, and a loud hissing sound from the turbocharger under load. The new pipe resolved the issue. Which garage have you selected, and have they conducted a diagnostic assessment yet? They have to verify not only the stored and existing trouble codes but also the live engine operating parameters. Will promptly provide pertinent information on the engine's status. I can do all of that with my little app-based scanner, which cost me £40, so I am perplexed as to why any reputable shop does not first connect the automobile to diagnostics and analyze live data. They undoubtedly ought to be. Certainly, the DPF will get obstructed if the engine is not functioning well, which it clearly is not. A diagnosis should have been conducted prior to replacing the DPF, since it will inevitably get obstructed again if the engine is emitting excessive soot and exhibiting a deficiency in power. My intuition is that during the alteration of the cam cover, they likely disrupted or damaged a connection, resulting in a boost leak that has caused your issues. However, given the vehicle did not display such symptoms before to their intervention, I would assert that restoring it to its original condition is the minimum they should do.

You are correctly using the parallel approach for charging the battery, which is akin to jump-starting. Connecting a parallel battery will start the charging of the depleted battery independently, without the need for your Ring to be attached. A substantial current may flow, necessitating the use of jumper wires. I would connect them up and stand well back for a while before trying the Ring. If the battery you are attempting to charge registers at 0.0 volts, it may be irreparably destroyed. A battery is considered totally drained at 10.5 volts.

Particularly, gratitude is extended to KSEBS.

I extend my profound gratitude.The relay resolved the beginning issue, but generated many error signals in Diagnostics. Ran clumsily. Swirl flap device replaced.As pleasant as can be.The leaking O-ring coated the device with oil, causing a short circuit and damaging the relay.I brought it home last night, and the audio stopped functioning, while the vehicle operates beautifully.Extremely pleased Thank you, gentlemen.

I will get it on friday and attempt that, and I appreciate your work in assisting me.I really hope this is successful. Ksebs has also answered, indicating that I should do this initially as well. I will update you if it is successful.Salutations

It has taken me the whole day; my head is aching. I will not be investing all that money in it. I like the vehicle; but, it fails to start 70% of the time. Run-flat and ESP notifications shown on the dashboard. When it begins, it is flawless. If the negative terminal is not toggled on and off, the device operates, and messages vanish. Inform me that you are acquainted with a gentleman. 🙂

None , bvlenci

Indeed, I have tried both keys, and the issue persists with both. It is not displaying errors at Mercedes dealers.They are equally perplexed.Two months is an extended duration to endure this malfunction, however lately, its negative battery lead was reattached, and it begins immediately.

No, nothing; it remains in Lookers. Even when it fails to start, no error codes are present.

I often need to separate and replace the negative battery connector; otherwise, the vehicle fails to start. Any suggestions? It has been in Lookers for six weeks.

2011 S-Class 350 Blue Efficiency. Occasionally fails to start. Remove the key, reinsert it, lock, and unlock. It commences after a duration of two. When it fails to start, the dashboard displays "Run Flat Unavailable" and the automobile skid sign is illuminated. Subsequently, it commences flawlessly. It may occur again today or in a few days. All readouts have been obtained, nevertheless the issue remains unclear. Express gratitude for any assistance received. Thank you, gentlemen.

You may attach the motion sensors using adhesive tape, as others have already done.