MrGreedy

:X:X:X:X

You might be OK if they're already droopy. However, when you squeeze the bag, you'may' be resisting pressure. Seems like there's a way to open the air unit's valve with a PP9 volt batteries. Surprisingly, the man failed to bring up polarity. I only have two pins, but he was performing it on a three-pin version. Insignificant detail. Both deflating at the same time suggests that the valve block is likely to pass. Out of the blue, mine dropped. They are both over 16 years old, so I decided to replace them.

I was really confused till you retrieved it. I was apprehensive about disconnecting the air supply line while the bag was still under pressure. I was wrong to be, though. After removing it, I deflated using the diagnostics. With the tire removed and the bottom bolt of the bag removed, I was able to hear the o/s bag hiss as I deflated it with the jack. To activate it, you must continuously press the F3 key. The PC was in the driver's seat, so I couldn't hear anything from the n/s. However, it's likely that they were too far away. After taking the electrical plug out and removing the bolt at the wheel hub of the rear arm, which allowed it to be pulled lower, the bag could be manoeuvred to come out by lifting it off the arm and guiding it to the back. It may be helpful to loosen the bolt at the base of the damper and pull it out to create an additional inch or two of clearance. Although it is not necessary. The new Arnott A-2726 (both units are the same) is easy to install in my instance. There are diagnostic functions that can inflate, but it is not immediately clear if this is having any effect. So I put it on wheels and went for a drive. Until the level sensors were filled to the exact mark, proceed slowly. I will make sure it no longer leaks by monitoring it overnight. There is no functionality in iCarsoft V2 for this. A more suitable setup was at my disposal.

In anticipation of a rainstorm, the vehicle has been perched on sticks for several days. Does the diagnostics permit the release of this pressure through the valve for the first and leaking bag, which is still under pressure?

I haven't snapped one yet, here's hoping the trend continues. Before taking them out, I always make sure the engine is warm, but not too hot.

Your time in responding is greatly appreciated. That sounds like something I could try.

Please advise me on how to install a heated steering wheel in place of the stock wheel on W222. I understand that a heated wheel and column stalk switch control will be necessary for this, but I would greatly appreciate any other suggestions you may have. The heat is always helpful for my arthritic hands. Many thanks

I'm sorry, but I find your work style concerning. If you let the cylinders run dry, you're inviting trouble because the seals require constant moisture. On a damaged bike, the brake fluid will drain quickly. When bleeding the ABS unit, a scan tool is completely unnecessary. No need at all.

The screen was my passener well leak. I didn't know it until I had to get a new screen when a stone damaged the old one. It is possible that your screen could crack 'by mistake' and need to be replaced. 😋

Most issues have typically been addressed. The 'Search Community' button up top might lead you to the right place. A few have, regrettably, remained unanswered. Still, it's worth taking a look at

Then I have a request: please don't be timid and disappear after introducing yourself or popping a repair Q. It was too high. Write down your successes, setbacks, and discoveries in a tiny journal. Show us your ride, tell us about your travels, and get in on the action!

If it is in the budget, I will get the new tires. I would pick four of the same since clunks and difficulties might be caused by mismatched tires.

"Fun pedal" is a new one on me, but apparently they work and are entertaining, so I'll keep that one in mind. Also, if you hit the "fun pedal" too often, they'll devour your tires. But hey, life is too short.

Simply activate the sports mode by pressing the button; no further action is required.

Could it be that the drive battery temperature control was activated? Did you access the automobile through the app at that moment, thereby activating it?

I will verify that the boot light does not remain illuminated when the boot is closed. Upon examining the trace on my BM 6 over a 24-hour period (vehicle stationary throughout), there is minimal voltage decline. Until 10:00, the Battery Management System activates to charge the 12V battery. Provided the drive battery remains over 20%, the Battery Management System (BMS) should maintain the 12V charge, as of 10:00.

Indeed, we were overwhelmed the night prior. I was quite apprehensive about using all-season tires on this Mazda, but it managed effortlessly. I was astounded!

During my downtime in the shop today, I connected the device to a steady power source and performed the TCU update to eliminate the telematics error message. Thank you It functioned exceptionally well! I remained after hours to have my live rearview mirror fitted.

Thank you. I intended to post a picture, but my Mazda is excessively dirty.

Recently acquired a 2024 CX90 premium and am keen to discover any pertinent facts, both favourable and unfavourable, regarding this vehicle.

😁

For the interest of clarification, I would want to clarify that the car was travelling at 40 mph, not 100 kph. I am uncertain how that discrepancy appeared in my first post. Thank you.

Indeed, that is precisely what transpired. Mercedes retained the vehicle for around three months, substituted the high-voltage battery under warranty, and returned it to me without providing any clarification regarding the underlying failure. They replaced two buckled wheels when I indicated that a road test had evidently not been conducted. I acknowledge that manufacturers frequently do not disclose internal reports; nonetheless, in this instance, the absence of information is especially concerning due to the vehicle's complete power failure, resulting in an immediate loss of both braking and steering assistance. Upon requesting clarification or simply fundamental confirmation of their beliefs regarding the events, I received no response. Considering the gravity of the breakdown and its resultant crash, it is challenging to regard "no comment" as an adequate answer. I am want to ascertain if others have encountered a similar incident, as the lack of transparency from Mercedes renders it impossible to determine whether this was an isolated defect or a broader safety concern.