ianwh4

Reading these replies, it sounds like the vehicle side of the business is becoming quite established. I was expecting loads of complaints if I'm honest!!!

Are you okay? Perhaps you are in the vicinity of a Merc Indi.

A star session could be the next best thing for an injector that's about to go out of business.

Very much appreciated; I've already placed an order for one.

I apologise, but I'm mistaken.

Additionally, I would prefer that the wheels remain unaltered, as my luck would have it, that is, if it is even possible.

No, I just placed an order for brand new locking nuts—the kind with the chrome caps—for my studs.

The proper part number is A0009905407, and they cost roughly £9.50 apiece from MB. I've chosen to replace the full set after getting another wheel stud caught. Unlike the typical hexagon, these are star shaped. Due to past overtightening, the majority of the present studs have chewed heads. Would you recommend Febi, from whom I may obtain identical studs? Febi engine mounts are horrible; the one I used before lasted all of forty kilometres.

excellent article. Are you asking which part—the left side seder or the one with the floats—has failed? I'm having the same problem. Tell me how you determined which one was defective.

It might be a defective switch, I hope. Nothing that I can think of has ever been spilt on it. As far as I can tell, it isn't creating any issues right now, and I seldom use Sport. I will inform the dealer about the booking for the yearly service since, as said before, I saw the problem before it happened. Warm regards

Your response is greatly appreciated. "The 2015 Mercedes-Benz E400 cannot learn from driving behaviour in Comfort mode; the mode operates with fixed, manufacturer-set parameters," reads the web page claiming to have confirmed this. Although I have never experienced a change in suspension, I am aware of a change in how well I can grip the gears. It won't return to Comfort mode even when I hit the button when it switches to Sport mode automatically.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=transmission fluid&campid=5338181132&customid=2518X1570512Xe5eab94982a2c69e7715511751b0dcc5&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&subId2=15&toolid=10001

The S M E switch appears to be operating as intended. It doesn't seem to trigger Sport mode and doesn't seem to be an issue. Also, I don't think Sport modifies the suspension on my car. The S.M.E. switch still works for me to alter modes. The yearly service, which includes changing the gearbox fluid, is scheduled for early June. Would appreciate it if someone could provide some light on this matter.

The 2015 E400 that I've had for the past seven years. I often use the default comfort setting when driving, although I do sometimes switch to sport mode while in flight. I just realised that when I go on a trip, it switches to Sport mode from Comfort mode somewhat abruptly.

You can rely on Google....

We have used magnetic brakes on trains for years; surely they would have been an excellent choice.

Apologies, but I don't see any error signals on this F20 N13 engine. Can you tell me where the temperature sensor is?

Hello, I'm hoping someone can lend me a hand with I have a 2012 F13 1 Series 1.6 Thanks in advance for any help you can provide; I'm having trouble starting the car from a cold start, and the radiator fan turns on along with a warning that the engine is overheating.

It's beautiful, and I don't know how much they go for, but compared to other items in the auction with the same estimate, it looks like a lot. One of two DB4s, or a black Testarossa. Each of these automobiles is unique, but I think they're better value for the money.

Some reprogramming may be necessary, but I am uncertain how to proceed. Apologies. The ECU was programmed at the manufacture with the battery specifications, hence it requires updated information regarding the current battery.

Also, I'm starting to lean toward the "short trips" side, so I appreciate your perspective. They put it on their charging system yesterday afternoon, so we should receive the findings sometime this morning. There is a lot of helpful information that owners find on our site, so I appreciate you taking the time to weigh in. As far as I am aware, the battery compartment has the tiniest cargo area of any place I have ever seen. Just to follow up — Is the 'battery tender' or trickle charge mechanism something you're familiar with? If so, which model/brand do you think is best? I intend to start checking the voltage at regular intervals from now on. However, I really enjoy driving this vehicle and would like to ensure its dependability to the best of my abilities.

Just wanted to give you a heads up regarding the 12V battery not getting charged enough from just using EV mode for short trips in the winter. The vendor connected it to their charger and battery testing apparatus. Instead of replacing it, they fixed it under warranty and didn't charge me a dime. The dealer's mechanic suggested using a battery tender to charge the 12-volt battery if you plan on continuing to drive short distances (<20 miles) on electric mode only. The other models are around 1.5 amps, but I'm inclined to go with a 'Battery Tender' 4 amp type. It would make me very delighted to hear your comments on that. Note: the tow truck connected its 10-foot charging cables to the 12-volt battery's positive terminal and the frame's ground terminal after I connected five feet of my own cables to the battery. It was immediately jump-started, and I backed it out of a cramped garage and drove it to the dealership. In Michigan's 0-20F winters, the lessons learned from using the EV mode are invaluable, but I still adore the car.

Twice this winter in Michigan, my CX70 PHEV's engine's 12-volt battery had a "total" loss of power. This typically occurs after a few short excursions under 19 miles, followed by recharging the PHEV battery to fill it up. Basically, it's a time when the petrol engine isn't used for more than a few miles at a time so the alternator can charge the 12-volt battery. Both instances occurred in the morning following an overnight charge of the PHEV. The next day, upon pressing the start button, I discovered that neither the red security light nor any of the instrument cluster lights were illuminated. Additionally, when left unlocked, the door locks do not make a sound. Sitting quietly while attempting to press a start button that is not illuminated. Approximately 2.77 volts was the reading I got the second time I lifted the hood to check the battery voltage. In all likelihood, it is a weak battery that has trouble charging. While the first attempt at connecting a battery charger brought the voltage closer to 8 volts, the second time around I heard a lot of noise coming from the engine area and had to turn off the device. They jumped me using Mazda Roadside Assistance. The vehicle was able to be restarted by connecting to their tow truck and performing a classic parallel jump. Got it going and dropped it off at the local M-dealer for analysis today. Findings are still being finalised. Has anyone encountered a situation like this before?

Prior to removing injectors, I would verify correction values and do a leak off test. On the n47 engine, the only problems I've ever encountered were faulty injectors and related codes. However, it doesn't rule out the possibility that your injector is questionable. Fuel pressure in real-time data is something else I'd look into.

So, 335 horsepower isn't enough for you? You can see that it's just a regular generic map, but it's actually a remap of the ecu, not a plug-and-play tune. The competent individual has 25 years of experience as a BMW mechanic and works as a contractor, if you will. I presume he's gone out on his own since he comes to your place to install. The problem I'm having is that the price for an Australian "European" map starts at $2500 and goes up from there. I think it's mostly due to the fact that they can charge that much and the owners of Porsche, Audi, BMW, and Mercedes will gladly pay. However, I'm not a typical European owner, and if the cars are worth 15,000, it's a bit. Although there is no shortage of 4x4 diesel tune shops, I am sceptical that they can properly map a vehicle from Europe. More often than not, they seem to advocate lifting, locking, and launching it while simultaneously pounding your chest or some other object. Further investigation led me to believe that the ZF6HP28, which is capable of 700Nm, is included in LCI series 3. However, it is solely based on Google AI, which is somewhat contradictory because it suggests using a metal pan, but my LCI comes with a plastic pan, so we're back to 600Nm. Consider going with the eco-friendly option as a precaution. The additional power is mainly for show; turning off the EGR is my primary concern.