QuirkEinstein

Thank you for your response. I was curious whether the issue I had was unique to me and the method I was halting before using the start-stop function. When I deactivated the start-stop function, there were no problems. This is probably the reason why I haven't scheduled it yet. Does your Kia experience intermittent engine shutdown right before to traffic lights, requiring you to manually restart the vehicle? Thank you.

Has anybody had this issue? The 2022 Kia Exceed is a manual 4-grade vehicle powered by a 1.5-liter petrol engine. Prior to halting, the automobile has sporadic instances of engine failure and requires restarting using the button. A cautionary notification is shown on the dashboard, prompting the user to go to neutral in order to use the automatic start feature.The dealer is unfamiliar with this message. This issue has occurred sporadically from the time of purchase. Notified the dealer of the issue during the first month, but did not get it inspected. Within a span of 6 months, I informed Kia about the issue and recommended having the dealer examine it. I had scheduled my first service appointment, but the service centre was unable to accommodate the check-up and advised me to reschedule. Regardless, a buddy suggested pressing the stop-start button to deactivate it? I have been engaged in this activity for a duration of 5 months, and I have not stopped or discontinued it at any point. Recently, I made another attempt and had three instances of disconnection, with the notification reappearing. I have reached out to Kia UK and am now arranging a booking for it. However, I am required to pay a diagnostic fee. If probably won’t happen in the time the technician has to inspect it . Has anybody else had this problem? or find a resolution Thank you.

I can verify that one of the three statements is accurate, namely the one about increased power. Nevertheless, the more powerful engine did not reach the United States. I assume that Audi had previously had significant difficulties in 2017 with the gap between horsepower (HP) and metric horsepower (PS), resulting in the vehicles being detained at the port for many months. Consequently, they likely made the decision to avoid the possibility of a recurrence by not taking any chances with a new engine. If you examine my post inside this discussion, you may find it here: [insert link]. I have not come across any information about the potential performance benefits of lowering the seating position by 10mm, and I am sceptical that it would have a significant impact on speed. Regarding the original poster's comment, an additional distinction that was not brought up pertains to the gearbox gear ratios. The pre-facelift Plus has reduced gear ratios ranging from 3rd to 7th. I would recommend choosing a pre-facelift model, since it will be positioned lower on the depreciation curve. Based on my personal experience, the expenses related to service and maintenance are often in the range of thousands, regardless of the currency used (such as dollars, euros, or pounds). On the other hand, the depreciation of assets is usually assessed in tens of thousands. I disagree with the notion that the most recent iterations exhibit a noteworthy increase in speed - a thorough evaluation under identical circumstances is necessary to ascertain such a claim. Having 610 horsepower is definitely not a disadvantage!

Greetings! Thank you for your remark. Yes, I conducted a search and discovered information pertaining to the date code on Varta Batteries. I cross-referenced this information and can confirm its veracity. Uncertain about the permissibility of sharing this on the forum, but here is the link...

Greetings, everyone! I would want to provide a brief update within the 10 minutes I have available. May provide assistance to an individual at a certain juncture. I obtained a fresh battery from Tayna batteries. Exceptional service. Extremely fast. The battery I purchased is a Varta Silver Dynamic A5 019 95Ah AGM battery. Arrived the next day. Upon decoding the date code, it becomes evident that the battery was produced in Germany in August 2023, indicating its recent manufacturing. Currently, it is January 2024. Over the last week, I have acquired a substantial amount of knowledge about batteries. Varta and Bosch batteries are produced in Germany specifically for distribution in Europe or nearby regions. The batteries are indistinguishable. The decision is ultimately up to you. Presently, the AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) structure is being discontinued and renamed as Xev. Evidently, there is absolutely no alteration to the battery. The only aspect that matters is how it is branded and sold. When doing a search, it is important to note that both AGM and xEV refer to the same structure. Very well! I anticipate that AI cells will be developed in the near future. Fortunately, I am the fortunate owner of a NOCO Genius 10 charger. I am now charging the new battery since I am unable to install it in the vehicle until the weekend. For the duration of 2 days, I closely monitored the charging voltages with a curious mindset, seeking to understand the operational mechanisms of these intelligent chargers. I discovered that the charger effectively examines the battery by gradually raising the charging voltage up to 15 volts. The tests assess the internal battery resistance and adjust the charging process accordingly based on the battery's current charge level. Regarding Genius 10, the maximum current it can handle is 10 Amperes. As the battery charges, the voltage reaches a stable level and the current decreases. After 24 hours, the charger displayed a consistent green light, indicating that the battery has finished charging and is now receiving a maintenance charge or float charge. The picture displays a voltage reading of 13.02 volts. Upon disconnecting the charger, the terminal voltage remains constant. Therefore, we have one battery that is completely charged and in good condition. At this juncture, I conducted a measurement of the electrical current flowing into the battery, which amounted to just a few milliamperes. That is my current progress at the moment. Tomorrow, on Sunday, I plan to drive and replace the batteries in my vehicle. I will then register the new battery to the car using Bimmerlink. Meanwhile, I will keep the battery connected to its maintenance charger. If I remove the current battery, I am considering doing a repair test and sharing the results, provided that there is any interest from others. The battery is not antiquated. It should be possible to recover. It will be intriguing to see the outcome of it.

Greetings! Thank you for sharing your article. Indeed, I was aware of such problems, but it never occurred to me that I would personally experience them. I will investigate it in the meanwhile. Thank you. I have just got confirmation of the shipment of batteries from Tayna Batteries. Please ensure your presence tomorrow. My intention is to install a new battery and attach a clamp metre to the battery wires. I own an antiquated iPhone that I can configure in the trunk of the vehicle to capture video recordings of clamp metre readings when the car is secured and in sleep mode. I have a high-quality, durable LED light that will also provide enough brightness. Let us assume that we will monitor and record the amount of electric current being drawn for a duration of 30 minutes. Until the automobile is in a state of rest and a short duration after that. I have reason to suspect that my F32 vehicle goes into sleep mode and the backlighting of the headlight switch turns off. On my E92, the gear change indicator exhibits the following behaviour... If someone can verify this, I would really appreciate it. I will have definitive confirmation when the automobile is in a state of dormancy. If I encounter a high level of electrical current consumption, one would be inclined to temporarily deactivate some unnecessary features and repeat the process as needed. Verify the present electrical current consumption and proceed accordingly. If somebody has superior guidance, do inform me. I prefer not to begin disassembling the automobile without first identifying and diagnosing the problems. Correct I am going to examine the hyperlink you shared. Today's reading material. Thank you so much for it.

Thank you for sharing your article. I have seen the typographical error, and I appreciate your acknowledgement of it. Due to unknown reasons, the most recent update of iPhones has significantly disrupted the functionality of predictive text. Consequently, I often find it futile to attempt to rectify inaccurate text suggestions. Similar to the process of relearning typing skills. A new AGM 90Ah battery was installed around two years ago. However, I will inspect the battery to ensure it is functioning properly as a first step. I appreciate your assistance. I will provide an update whenever I get the findings. I eliminated those scripts to see if any more issues arise. I comprehend the phenomenon of low battery causing error codes to be generated, which may ultimately be inconsequential. The Bimmercode application displays the battery's level of charge as 80%, however I am uncertain about its accuracy. Observe the progression of events. Thank you one again.

Greetings, everyone. It has been a considerable amount of time. Primarily as a result of successive severe illnesses. Regardless, I am still present, so I will proceed. The model of the car is F32 M57 LCI, manufactured in 2019. Yesterday, while travelling on the A1 in Newcastle, namely on the western bypass, I saw something that has left me perplexed. The car is equipped with a digital speedometer. Everything abruptly ceased, as if everything had just perished. A few moments later, it resumed functioning with the full display illuminated. All lights promptly returned to their regular state. I cannot remember the driving or temperature controls malfunctioning as I was preoccupied with what I had just seen. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts? I connected a BT OBD reader and performed a code scan, saving the resulting report that had several errors. I successfully eliminated the individuals, and two of them exhibited resistance, prompting me to document their actions in a report. One should attempt to publish such codes. Solicit suggestions about potential areas of concern. I would want to have it arranged in an orderly manner. The engine never experienced any failure or cessation of operation. The engine did not experience any decrease in power. Evidently, only related to electricity. Thank you in advance for any confusion or perplexity one may cause! Info memory-29-12-2023.pdf Info memory-29-12-2023 2.pdf

Yes, I still own it, however I am now on vacation. Will you be available on january 1st to retrieve it?

Update: I replaced the mount, which was noticeably loose when touched, with a new one. The issue seems to be resolved at this point. Yet another victory for the forum!

This is really a very astute observation, since it would provide a comprehensive explanation, particularly about the subjective experience. The torque transmitted via the driveline is much greater when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear compared to other gear shifts. Although I have already changed the engine mounts, it is possible that the issue lies in the gearbox mounts. I would want to understand the reason for the absence of the event when I conducted a further investigation. It is possible that the rubber mounts had significantly cooled down, but the gearbox oil remained quite warm at about 60 degrees Celsius. I will do an investigation - thank you!

What is the method by which you do that? I performed a relearning process on the 1st-2nd adaptation and it seems to be functioning properly now. However, I was unable to induce any undesirable shifting behaviour, indicating that the issue may be sporadic or that I have successfully resolved it.

Upon installing the tuning box and doing many launches before and after, I have observed that my S211 320 CDI now experiences abrupt transitions from first to second gear. If I apply a modest amount of pressure to the throttle in first gear until it changes gears, the sensation is hardly perceptible. While obtaining 0-60 acceleration figures, I engaged in a little application of brake torque by temporarily holding the engine speed at around 1500 rpm before releasing it to initiate the launch. All other shifts are functioning well and without any issues. The gearbox oil was last replaced around 20 months and 20,000 miles ago by the previous owner, and there were no problems reported prior to the installation of the Brabus box. There are no error codes detected from the gearbox throughout the scanning process. I own a Launch X431 Pro diagnostic apparatus, which enables me to do various operations on the gearbox. However, I lack the necessary knowledge and expertise in this area. Could someone kindly provide me with a guide or direct me to some informative resources? Assuming there are no additional complications, I am inclined to believe that this is really a matter of incorrect mapping, which may likely be resolved by modest tweaks. Does anybody possess any guidance or recommendations?

I had a similar experience with my 124 coupé. The rear bearings had been firmly attached to the "flange" by a process resembling welding. I had already acquired NOS bearings, but, I found it necessary to purchase new flanges at a cost above 100€ apiece, in addition to acquiring splash protectors for the discs. Simultaneously, the differential and half shafts were removed for refurbishment. Additionally, we proceeded to repair the rear brake pads and handbrake components, using a fully intact New Old Stock (NOS) kit that was readily available in our inventory.

Indeed, I too misinterpreted the information. It is plausible to consider that the optimal resolution may be found on AliExpress, where an aftermarket plug and play box for Audio 20 that supports Apple CarPlay and Android Auto is available.

I would suggest seeking the services of an online Mercedes programmer, maybe via platforms like as Facebook advertising or Gumtree, in order to facilitate the activation process. The most cost-effective device I am aware of for conducting bi-directional communications, namely coding, with MB is priced at around £140. Consequently, it seems plausible that engaging the services of a coder would be a more economical option. The AMG menus were successfully enabled, the air conditioning power was enhanced, and the vehicle was permanently lowered (utilising an air suspension system), along with many other modifications, all accomplished for a budget of £200 and a time frame of around 30 minutes.

I own a 2018 BMW 740i and have seen that the central console sometimes becomes quite heated, namely on the passenger side. The temperature on the driver's side of the console remains consistently chilly without any fluctuations. Does anybody has knowledge on the potential causes of this phenomenon? Initially, I hypothesized that the activation of the temperature controls may be the cause; but, even after deactivating them, the elevated temperature persisted. Could the issue maybe be related to the air conditioning system? I am uncertain about the potential causes behind the sensation of overheating emanating from the passenger's side of the central console. I am curious if anybody has any insights or perspectives on this matter. Expressing gratitude is a common social convention that is often used to acknowledge appreciation or thanks in many contexts.

The first thing to mention is that it all relies on your budget and whatever current items you may have. 1. I use a camcorder that records on regular DV tape. The DV input is for digital transfers, whereas the AV input is for analog transfers. You will most likely need a device with AV INPUT. The majority (if not all) bullet cameras will be analog. My video camera is an ancient Sony TRV-33E. 2. My bullet cam was purchased at http://www.rfconcepts.co.uk/. Only a few months ago, there was a discussion about a bulk buy/discount from another firm on bullet cameras. A search on the forums should provide results. 3. The finest that money can buy 4. I use normal AA batteries in mine, although bullet cam manufacturers offer various possibilities. 5. How long is a length of string? I'd think a bullet cam costs between £100 and £150, plus the cost of the recording equipment. 6. If it's from a DV camcorder, use a firewire connection to transfer it to a capture/video editing tool (Movie Maker in Windows will handle it) on your PC. After that, edit your footage. Then convert the finished film into whatever file type you choose to use (for example, WMV for web or MPEG2 for DVD, etc.) and then use a DVD authoring application if you intend to put it on DVD. Obviously, if you're utilizing solid state devices, the capturing step takes less time and is just a matter of moving data from device to PC.

Rusting within an engine is not a good omen.

In my experience, the turbo is usually the first to go. It's probably best to change them all at once, but do it cautiously so you don't confuse them.

I first heard about Enviosec Group when I saw a bike for sale on Facebook and the seller claimed he would sell it through Enviosec Group. I was concerned, so I asked my children to look into Enviosec Group. They encouraged me to make the purchase of the motorcycle I had seen on Facebook Marketplace, so I sent the money to their bank account and received the bike six days later. I have nothing but positive things to say about this company, and I would definitely use them again since I felt very protected, and they stayed in touch with me the entire time.

Great adhesive. What OBDII scanners are worth purchasing to read and reset fault codes?

As long as the oil contains ll04.