QuirkEinstein

This is really a very astute observation, since it would provide a comprehensive explanation, particularly about the subjective experience. The torque transmitted via the driveline is much greater when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear compared to other gear shifts. Although I have already changed the engine mounts, it is possible that the issue lies in the gearbox mounts. I would want to understand the reason for the absence of the event when I conducted a further investigation. It is possible that the rubber mounts had significantly cooled down, but the gearbox oil remained quite warm at about 60 degrees Celsius. I will do an investigation - thank you!

What is the method by which you do that? I performed a relearning process on the 1st-2nd adaptation and it seems to be functioning properly now. However, I was unable to induce any undesirable shifting behaviour, indicating that the issue may be sporadic or that I have successfully resolved it.

Upon installing the tuning box and doing many launches before and after, I have observed that my S211 320 CDI now experiences abrupt transitions from first to second gear. If I apply a modest amount of pressure to the throttle in first gear until it changes gears, the sensation is hardly perceptible. While obtaining 0-60 acceleration figures, I engaged in a little application of brake torque by temporarily holding the engine speed at around 1500 rpm before releasing it to initiate the launch. All other shifts are functioning well and without any issues. The gearbox oil was last replaced around 20 months and 20,000 miles ago by the previous owner, and there were no problems reported prior to the installation of the Brabus box. There are no error codes detected from the gearbox throughout the scanning process. I own a Launch X431 Pro diagnostic apparatus, which enables me to do various operations on the gearbox. However, I lack the necessary knowledge and expertise in this area. Could someone kindly provide me with a guide or direct me to some informative resources? Assuming there are no additional complications, I am inclined to believe that this is really a matter of incorrect mapping, which may likely be resolved by modest tweaks. Does anybody possess any guidance or recommendations?

I had a similar experience with my 124 coupé. The rear bearings had been firmly attached to the "flange" by a process resembling welding. I had already acquired NOS bearings, but, I found it necessary to purchase new flanges at a cost above 100€ apiece, in addition to acquiring splash protectors for the discs. Simultaneously, the differential and half shafts were removed for refurbishment. Additionally, we proceeded to repair the rear brake pads and handbrake components, using a fully intact New Old Stock (NOS) kit that was readily available in our inventory.

Indeed, I too misinterpreted the information. It is plausible to consider that the optimal resolution may be found on AliExpress, where an aftermarket plug and play box for Audio 20 that supports Apple CarPlay and Android Auto is available.

I would suggest seeking the services of an online Mercedes programmer, maybe via platforms like as Facebook advertising or Gumtree, in order to facilitate the activation process. The most cost-effective device I am aware of for conducting bi-directional communications, namely coding, with MB is priced at around £140. Consequently, it seems plausible that engaging the services of a coder would be a more economical option. The AMG menus were successfully enabled, the air conditioning power was enhanced, and the vehicle was permanently lowered (utilising an air suspension system), along with many other modifications, all accomplished for a budget of £200 and a time frame of around 30 minutes.

I own a 2018 BMW 740i and have seen that the central console sometimes becomes quite heated, namely on the passenger side. The temperature on the driver's side of the console remains consistently chilly without any fluctuations. Does anybody has knowledge on the potential causes of this phenomenon? Initially, I hypothesized that the activation of the temperature controls may be the cause; but, even after deactivating them, the elevated temperature persisted. Could the issue maybe be related to the air conditioning system? I am uncertain about the potential causes behind the sensation of overheating emanating from the passenger's side of the central console. I am curious if anybody has any insights or perspectives on this matter. Expressing gratitude is a common social convention that is often used to acknowledge appreciation or thanks in many contexts.

The first thing to mention is that it all relies on your budget and whatever current items you may have. 1. I use a camcorder that records on regular DV tape. The DV input is for digital transfers, whereas the AV input is for analog transfers. You will most likely need a device with AV INPUT. The majority (if not all) bullet cameras will be analog. My video camera is an ancient Sony TRV-33E. 2. My bullet cam was purchased at http://www.rfconcepts.co.uk/. Only a few months ago, there was a discussion about a bulk buy/discount from another firm on bullet cameras. A search on the forums should provide results. 3. The finest that money can buy 4. I use normal AA batteries in mine, although bullet cam manufacturers offer various possibilities. 5. How long is a length of string? I'd think a bullet cam costs between £100 and £150, plus the cost of the recording equipment. 6. If it's from a DV camcorder, use a firewire connection to transfer it to a capture/video editing tool (Movie Maker in Windows will handle it) on your PC. After that, edit your footage. Then convert the finished film into whatever file type you choose to use (for example, WMV for web or MPEG2 for DVD, etc.) and then use a DVD authoring application if you intend to put it on DVD. Obviously, if you're utilizing solid state devices, the capturing step takes less time and is just a matter of moving data from device to PC.

Rusting within an engine is not a good omen.

In my experience, the turbo is usually the first to go. It's probably best to change them all at once, but do it cautiously so you don't confuse them.

I first heard about Enviosec Group when I saw a bike for sale on Facebook and the seller claimed he would sell it through Enviosec Group. I was concerned, so I asked my children to look into Enviosec Group. They encouraged me to make the purchase of the motorcycle I had seen on Facebook Marketplace, so I sent the money to their bank account and received the bike six days later. I have nothing but positive things to say about this company, and I would definitely use them again since I felt very protected, and they stayed in touch with me the entire time.

Great adhesive. What OBDII scanners are worth purchasing to read and reset fault codes?

As long as the oil contains ll04.