Geek2232

😉

It's a spark plug gaske that's leaking from the cam cover.

As far as I'm aware, there is no English word that adequately describes the shape of the spark plug recess gaskets, therefore I used the word "round" to describe them. Well done!

Because they squeeze each round gasket around each plug, I would assume that whoever changed the plugs last didn't torque the spark plug nuts down correctly at 11nm (I think). The oil will seep past the gaskets and pool around the plugs if they aren't snug enough.

Hello there, I appreciate you providing that data to me. Once I have the data, I will text you back, but first I need to get an obd2 connector that works with Forscan.

I performed several tests in Forscan, alright. Idle rpm ranges from 690 to 705 rpm, spark advancement deviation is low, and both the short-term and long-term fuel trim are good. The short-term trim ranges from -4% to 2%, and the long-term trim is nearly consistent at 10%. Now my only remaining suspicions are that the vibration could be caused by a faulty engine mount and that the lights could be an electrical issue. I would be grateful for any suggestions or assistance, despite

Greetings, all! Even with the engine warmed up to operating temperature, my 2003 1.8L Mondeo starts shaking when I let it idle. Up until the rpms return, a little pressure on the gas pedal gets it going again. It is said that the idling rpm is fine as it stays at 750 and doesn't fluctuate. Another thing I noticed is that when the engine is not revving (around 1000-1100), all of the lights—cabin, dashboard, and headlights—flicker. I was worried about the alternator, but the mechanic assured me that everything is OK. Your assistance is much valued.

😇

Thanks a lot.

Perhaps the new owners prioritise enhancing the look, adding accessories, or making adjustments. Although those decisions impact the car's aesthetics, the dependability and safety of a vehicle over time are frequently dictated by unassuming maintenance routines. Maintaining a clean driver's footwell to prevent pedal interference, keeping the cabin and underbody free of dirt, sand, or moisture, and paying close attention to the fit and safety of interior components rather than their aesthetics are all simple routines that can make a big difference. These things may not seem important at first, but they have a significant impact on how safe, comfortable, and long-lasting your car is. We welcome the community to join us in this discussion: Tell me one thing a new car owner should know about car maintenance. By offering your advice, you're making a real difference in the lives of novice drivers and improving the driving experience for everyone on the forum. Someone could use your advice to avoid making a costly mistake because of your experience.

🤣😂🤣

AI stands for Artificial Idiot.

It amazes me that AI didn't inform you that it operates on a handful of AAA cells.

Yes, it is the pink variant; I believe it requires approximately 8.5 to slightly over 10 litres to completely fill the system.

I absolutely concur, and I advocate for the same approach during collecting; yet, most individuals rely on the assumption that the workshop will adequately safeguard their belongings, and fortunately, the overwhelming majority of workshops do indeed exercise necessary care. I have experienced a single incident of damage to a vehicle while it was in the dealer's custody. My wife's nearly new MINI Cooper S was delivered to the main dealer on a Thursday for warranty repairs but was retained over the weekend pending parts availability. Upon collection the subsequent Tuesday, I observed the damage and promptly reported it to the workshop manager, who requested time to do an investigation, which I deemed reasonable. The next day, he returned to me, refuting any claims of misconduct regarding the car while their custody and, in a kind manner, insinuating that I was fabricating the situation. His demeanour shifted upon my revelation of the contents discovered in the glovebox: a map book that did not belong to me, accompanied by a pivotal parking payment ticket, date and time-stamped, featuring the vehicle's registration number for a location approximately 25 miles distant on the Sunday during which they had custody of the car. Extensive apologies were issued along with a goodwill gesture, and the damage was rectified at their expense, so resolving the issue.

I recommend procuring a quality brand from a respected seller, given that you have conducted your homework. I installed an FAI component from an automotive supplier on my vehicle; it cost approximately £50 and functioned excellently.

🙃🙃🙃

It is highly probable that the gearbox is the issue, as they are notoriously fragile.

Toyota's decision to reposition the centre brake light to align with the standard brake lights represents a regressive advancement in safety.

Beneath the carpet on the driver's side? That is one location I have not examined. I only presumed that all processes concluded at the FRM.

I have disassembled the connector within the door and removed the door card. I have examined the wiring from the switch pack plug to the frm, and all the wires appear to be in satisfactory condition. No rusting whatsoever. While it is possible that there may be some damaged wires at some point, I am truly struggling to locate them!

I am contemplating this; but, I prefer not to expend the funds without unequivocally verifying that this is the problem. I purchased an inexpensive imitation on Amazon for approximately £10, and it did not resolve the problem. I may require an additional OEM unit. However, my lord, these demons, gremlins, and magical wizards are indeed resisting vigorously.

I have been contending with challenges lately, and these challenges have manifested as wires. The master window switchpack of my E93 has become inoperative, and I am unable to determine the cause. Here is a comprehensive account of my completed tasks to date. Context The former owner brought it to a repair shop. They identified a "failed switchpack" but did not replace it. I have subsequently replaced and recoded the FRM independently. Only modified the VIN and UIF information. The interior lights are functioning correctly; however, the window issue remains unresolved. What Effectively Functions All four windows function flawlessly from: The button for the convertible roof My scanner and diagnostics The FRM can manoeuvre all the windows effortlessly. Malfunction Codes 9CBA – LIN operator unit disrupted 9CC4 – Disruption in passenger mirror LIN 9CC3 – Disruption in driver mirror LIN These remain unchanged regardless of whether the switchpack is connected or disconnected. Electrical Inspections The power and ground at the switchpack are accurate. 12V on Pin 6 (Red/Green). Ground connection on Pin 5 (Brown). LIN bus is located on Pin 4 (White/Brown). The presence of 12V and ground at their respective locations indicates that the problem does not lie between the FRM and the switchpack for those circuits. LIN also attains the switchpack plug at approximately 9-10 volts. Unusual Ground Behaviour The door is open; the ground measures approximately 40Ω to the metal in the fuse box. Door closed: resistance decreases to approximately 3Ω. With a jumper: 1.5 ohms. Enhancing the grounding did not restore functionality to the switchpack. Additional Remarks All fuses are functioning properly. No apparent damage in the door loom. The mirrors are also inoperative due to the switchpack, which is logical as they utilise the same LIN line. My Current Location The FRM can operate all functions, however the switchpack lacks bidirectional communication. LIN errors persist even when the switchpack is disconnected. All indications suggest either: An inferior switchpack, Or something upstream on the LIN line is impeding communication. I welcome any insights from those who have encountered this specific demon previously. I appreciate your assistance in advance.

Greetings 🙂