All Activity

🥰

Thank you, I will conduct some preliminary checks tomorrow and will reach out if I encounter difficulties.

If you have difficulties, feel free to send it to me; I am confident I can resolve it.

There may be an issue with the ground connection. Consider connecting a jumper lead from the negative battery terminal to the engine block to see if any response occurs. I also possess a 2016 Clubman SD, which I recognise to be quite complex. Additionally, verify that the ground wire located at the centre rear of the rocker cover is not damaged.

Could this be a grounding problem?

I was anticipating your visit. I shared the same opinion; however, he assessed the battery, which indicated it was functioning properly, and it also failed to jump-start from his pack or the van. I had previously experienced alternator problems that resulted in unusual electrical troubles; yet, he reiterated that the jump start should have initiated the engine. I am enquiring whether there are any unusual minor features that could lead to these symptoms.

is probably attributable to battery issues.

Greetings everyone, This is my inaugural post here. Yesterday, my 2016 Clubman SD stalled and is now inoperative. While driving to work as usual, without any prior indications, the collision system indicated a malfunction, subsequently followed by a defect in the stability control system. At this juncture, the vehicle decelerated progressively and the engine ceased operation. The RAC retrieved my vehicle but indicated that their system displayed numerous errors, primarily related to communication issues. I am seeking suggestions for initial steps and plan to schedule an appointment with a small specialist for diagnostic purposes; nonetheless, I am curious if there are prevalent issues similar to this one. Thank you.

Thank you both; I greatly appreciate that, my friend.

🙂

As previously stated by guyskin, it is a cold check that occurs when the vehicle is initially activated, during which it inspects for malfunctioning bulbs. LEDs consume less power, leading the system to erroneously conclude that the bulb has malfunctioned. I deactivated the cold check feature on one of my vehicles using my diagnostic scanner, and there is a setting in the iDrive for the F20 model. Indeed, that is how I organised things in that vehicle.

This is a general code description for headlight bulb malfunction. whether halogen or xenon is installed. The headlight bulbs will require load resistors when transitioning from halogen to LED, as the removed bulbs likely had components to ensure the bulb check system functioned properly.

Greetings to everyone, I possess a 2010 BMW 5 Series, model 520D, F10. I recently replaced my headlight bulbs with new H7 LED bulbs. Bulbs of comparable strength [200W/50000LM/6500K]. Subsequently, I get the following two errors on my dashboard: Left Low-Beam Headlight Malfunction Right Low-Beam Headlight Malfunction Upon examination with an OBD2 reader, I receive: Errors 800F2E/800F2F: Left/Right Low-Beam Headlight, Malfunction or Reignition Failure for Xenon When I activate my light, both errors vanish. Each time I initiate the process, I consistently encounter these errors until I activate the lights. Do you have any insights regarding the errors I am encountering? What is the reason for the mention of "Xenon" in the error? Approximately three weeks ago, while replacing the bulbs, I inadvertently cleaned the connector with Standard WD-40 instead of the appropriate Contact Cleaner. Could this be a rationale?

🙃

Thank you, everyone. I replaced the water pump; but, it was a novice mistake not to replace the thermostat simultaneously. That is my oversight. I will modify it over the weekend. Thank you once more for your prompt assistance; it is greatly appreciated

😇

I concur with br1anuk.

The thermostat is malfunctioning and requires replacement.

Greetings everyone, The temperature gauge of the x5 e53 M54 3.0i does not exceed the first quarter mark; however, when stationary at idle, it rises to the halfway point. While driving, it descends back to the first quarter or around the cold blue mark, and the vehicle emits lukewarm air, however it operates OK. Any assistance or guidance would be much valued. Thank you, everyone.

🙂

https://www.amazon.com/Cordless-Inflator-Compressor-Portable-Motorcycles/dp/B0DHL5DNRN

I purchased an item similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Cordless-Inflator-Compressor-Portable-Motorcycles/dp/B0DHL5DNRN It has functioned effectively for my needs and is somewhat less expensive than the Makita alternative. One can establish the preferred psi and depart. The advantageous aspect is that when inflating four fully flat truck tires, you can interchange batteries to maintain continuous operation. I am not very fond of the combined inflator and jumper tools, as it is improbable that one can jump-start a vehicle and inflate four flat tires on a single battery. Moreover, if the internal battery fails, you will forfeit two functionalities.

I possess Dewalt tools and batteries. I observed that they provide a larger combined jump starter and tyre inflator.

Do you possess power tools? In that case, contemplate acquiring an inflator compatible with their batteries. I possess a device that utilises Makita batteries, and it functions exceptionally well. The price was approximately $35 and it is not manufactured by Makita.

I possess a Sealey cordless tire inflator, a cracking tool, and it includes two batteries and a charger. Additionally, I possess a Noco Boost jump pack, which functions as a torch and includes USB ports for charging devices such as phones.