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Mine was functioning when I parked the car, but it has since stopped responding, so I'm hoping it's not the vp44. When I think back on this difficulty from many years ago, I recall that we had to tow the automobile in order to start it, but I believe that was due to the fact that we didn't have alternative methods. For some reason, the only thing that comes to mind is to give it a quick spray of brake cleaner or easy star for a couple of seconds.

After removing one injector and adjusting the metal fuel line to suspend it over the engine, I made sure that no fuel was spewing out of the other injectors. The VP44 connector's ground and power are functional, as I verified. First, air got into the system when the injectors were disconnected. Second, VP44 could be malfunctioning. Third, the immobiliser could be preventing it. The VP44's unexpected failure coincides with the injector removal; therefore, tomorrow I will attempt to bleed the gasoline lines once more, since I do not comprehend why it would do so.

I don't understand why the immobiliser would activate, but it sounds like gasoline starvation. Perhaps other error codes could be revealed by a more comprehensive scanner. I experienced a VP-44 failure myself; I parked the car, returned to it 30 minutes later, and it still wouldn't start.

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Greetings, everybody! I own a VP44 fuel pump-equipped E46 320d, which is a pre-facelift model. Now that I fixed the leaky washers at the base of my injectors, I am unable to start the engine. 😎 It will turn over, but it will not start. 1) I have primed the pump under the seat for 40 seconds many times and verified that it is functioning. 2) The clear gasoline tubes that go from the fuel filter to the VP44 pump do not appear to have any air bubbles. 3) At the injectors, I have loosened the nuts to bleed the high-pressure fuel lines. Clear fuel streams out to a height of about 5 cm, with the exception of the injector nearest the front of the car, which seems slightly weaker. 4) I sprayed starting fluid into the intake and got the engine to start, but the initial start was rough and white smoke billowed from the tailpipe. Although there was less smoke and less force during the other starts, the engine still makes a loud knocking noise when started with starting fluid. 5. BMW Scanner 1.4 displays a flawless result. So now I'm confused. I accidentally disconnected the red battery line in the engine compartment before removing the battery in the boot, so I'm wondering if the immobiliser is preventing the fuel pump from operating. Can the immobiliser be verified or circumvented in any way? After this, what am I to do? Many thanks

Very much appreciated; I've already placed an order for one.

Standard 17mm sockets, especially older ones, might damage the "flower" heads of those lug bolts. We have specialised sockets.

I apologise, but I'm mistaken.

Turn off pedantic mode!

They are bolts, not studs, therefore pedantry mode is on. Mercedes often prefers to employ the far more finicky method of bolts, however these are the studs that wheel nuts go into.

Additionally, I would prefer that the wheels remain unaltered, as my luck would have it, that is, if it is even possible.

No, I just placed an order for brand new locking nuts—the kind with the chrome caps—for my studs.

Discard the locking wheel bolts and replace them with regular bolts if that is what you mean. In fact, there might be a plastic container containing a set of four in your vehicle; during the pre-delivery check, the providing dealer will remove them and replace them with the locking ones. Wheel theft has been eradicated.

The proper part number is A0009905407, and they cost roughly £9.50 apiece from MB. I've chosen to replace the full set after getting another wheel stud caught. Unlike the typical hexagon, these are star shaped. Due to past overtightening, the majority of the present studs have chewed heads. Would you recommend Febi, from whom I may obtain identical studs? Febi engine mounts are horrible; the one I used before lasted all of forty kilometres.

Thank you!😍

You can find a good selection on eBay. Check out partsgateway.co.uk as well.

Although I appreciate the feedback, I can tell you that the mechanic exhausted all possible computer-based reset options. Even though they don't open automatic gearboxes, they're assuming that something is wrong with the gearbox within. Well, maybe someone does. I need to get the most money out of this, therefore I'm selling it.

Give the reset a shot; you never know, my friend.

Have you attempted a gearbox reset? If so, how exactly is it damaged? Although I am not familiar with the costs, I am sure that a new gearbox would not be too expensive. After all, many people have done just that, and they have kept on going strong.

My 2016 Evoque has broken down. My immediate concern is deciding on a new vehicle (should I get a Defender?), but I'd also appreciate some guidance on how to handle the recently departed vehicle. Last week, the gearbox gave out, and my reliable pals at RCM 4x4 told me the vehicle isn't worth fixing. Could someone please give me an idea of how much a 2016 2.0 TD4 HSE Dynamic 5dr Auto worth? It has 100,000 miles on the odometer and the transmission is in bad shape. Can you recommend somewhere I can get rid of this? Much obliged

😀

It sounded like it was either missing or uneven at intersections, and it sounded like the injector's crush washer had failed.

Please tell me the signs that prompted you to check the vehicle.

I was curious, but it came from a service station's shell garage. Premium diesel is the only kind I use. Still, I suppose it's possible.