All Activity

😍

Sure, I'd be happy to have a look if you were closer. Maybe someone in your neighborhood can suggest a place that won't take advantage of you with their parts cannon.

I also checked out your Facebook profile. What a shame your twin isn't a Chester resident. You seem like the ideal individual to provide me a hand.

Your kind words of guidance are greatly appreciated. Near Liverpool and Chester, I am. The first place I went was to a BMW expert. I was offered the option to purchase a new DPF or have it removed for the pitiful sum of £700.

The air plausibility could be caused by a multitude of causes. If I were in charge, I'd make sure there are no obstructions in the tubing that measures pressure before the turbine. Not even the turbo would be replaced at this point. In a perfect world, you'd be able to use Ista to aid in diagnostics; by the way, whose nation are you in?

Greetings, everyone Since I'm new to this website, I apologize in advance if this is posted in the incorrect area. As a result, I am completely distraught and hopeless. My 2016 BMW 318d Touring serves as both my personal vehicle and my mode of transportation when I provide end-of-life care as a practitioner and paramedic. When my car was chilly, it began to hesitate, jerk, and stall around two weeks ago. The automobile exhibited none of the aforementioned issues (only when engine was cold) after it was warmed up, and its pulling power was identical to the day I purchased it new. In any case, I was outside a patient's house when it stalled three times and the alarm for the drivetrain turned red. It was determined by a mechanic to be the DPF and an air plausibility code after I had them investigated. A mechanic I took it to for an inspection found no problems with the DPF, but the air intake breather hose was drenched in oil and broke apart in his hands. Two days after I swapped it out, the red drivetrain light went out and was replaced with a yellow light, which indicates reduced performance. Thankfully, I no longer experienced any symptoms, hesitancy, or uncertainty. After two garages (I appreciate you sticking with me thus far), Halfords diagnosed an air leak and told me it was my turbo, but the repair cost £1650, which is out of my price range. Apologies, but I'm not a mechanic. However, I seem to recall reading that the boost hose could pop out due to excessive boost pressure. So as not to appear to be an absolute moron, I only nodded. They claimed it would be a coin flip as to whether it was the turbo or not. I hate to beg, but after a terrible week of worry, I've been to three different garages and could really use some reassurance. No matter how much I wish I were mechanically inclined, the truth is that I am not. On the other hand, I observed that, similar to the previous pipe, the charge pipe that leads into the air intake had fresh oil surrounding its junction (image attached). Back smoke is nonexistent No odd "whistling" coming from the top Exhaust (before the warning light becomes red) It would be really appreciated if you could lend a hand. Air and DPF plausibility codes are being displayed. In exchange for medical advice, I will gladly trade mechanical advice 😉. Once again, I'm really grateful.

I switched it out, and now everything is working well. Every word you said was correct. Much obliged.

Used them on a wide variety of vehicles, but only ever had one BMW.

🫠

Much obliged. To double-check that, I'll also grab one from the breakers. Is complete failure a possibility with them?

In this case, I'd bet on the swap.

Greetings everyone There are a couple of hiccups that require fixing, but overall, I got a great deal on a beautiful E61 BMW. The driver window switch is the first thing I need to fix if I ever want to use the drive-through 😂 Let me tell you where I am: Even though it doesn't work, the switch does light up. The passenger door switch raises and lowers the passenger window, while the rear two remain fixed (perhaps because the driver's switch had disabled them). By pressing the lock/unlock button on the keychain, you may adjust the height of all four windows. Both of the electronic folding mirrors in the vehicle are fully operational. No LIN communication to the switch block is the reason for the 93CB error code as reported by INPA. The driver's door card has obviously been removed at some point; the top light doesn't work, and the lock appears to be fused in the up position, even though the car locks and unlocks without a hitch. I'm going to give this a shot: To check whether it helps, unplug the mirrors. To find the source of the short, follow the door's cables. Is anything needed or am I heading in the correct direction? A heartfelt "thank you" to everyone.

😇😍😍

Saluti e benvenuti. My car actually made a difference because it had clear interiors. So, the other extremity of the country! My mom's family is from Milan....

You deserve all the credit for keeping your MB looking so beautiful, since I adore her.

😍

https://jupitalia.com/news-from-jupiter/from-my-notebooks-in-1973-zanfinis-story/

I recognise the name Calabria. Why? Because I've recently read about Jupiter's journeys. Roggiano Calabria was Ted Simon's stop on his global tour.

Calabria, Italy

🤔

For the sake of curiosity, whatever region of Italy are you currently in?

Greetings, all! I'd want to introduce myself because I'm new to the forum. A 2013 Mercedes C220 was my latest purchase I figured I'd join up because my car is showing signs of trouble at just 156,000 kilometres, and I could use some help from folks who are familiar with this model. What might be considered typical for its age and what could be signs of a more serious issue that requires attention is something I'm attempting to figure out. Being a part of this community makes me joyful, and I can't wait to hear about your experiences. Would much appreciate any assistance. Thank you in advance.

Greetings, I have recently completed this task; your description is really clear and concise. Just so you know, the 2003 model year W203 270CDI on my car has the E10 and T30 sockets. In order to completely remove the top bolt, the E10 driver must be very tiny so it can fit into the narrow space. I managed to fracture the bolt off and free it halfway with my 3/8" socket drive, but it got "caught" on a hexagonal fitting. To fully remove the bolt, I switched to a 1/4" drive 9mm socket. In the event that anyone is in need of purchasing the Torx and E-Torx drivers, I hope this information proves useful.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/?utm_source=awin&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_term=ecp+homepage&utm_content=Skimlinks&awin+traffic&utm_campaign=Sub+Networks+78888&sv_campaign_id=78888&sv_tax1=affiliate&sv_tax2=815061&sv_tax3=Skimlinks&sv_tax4=forums.mbclub.co.uk&sv_affiliate_id=78888&awc=3997_1772805337_4b44d7a114434ef16adf4284e38ce336

I simply used the rubber "gasket" that came with the thermostat instead of sealant. The mating surface should only be clean and flat. For less than a main dealer and with MB Club Discount, I purchased my stat from www.eurocarparts.com. Use the code mbclub25 when you check out.