TechWhiz

Presume the gasoline system was contaminated with metal filings from the pump. Have you performed any modifications to the fuel rail?

Additional information is required. What was the first failure mode? Were authentic, used, or aftermarket pumps installed? Has the low-pressure fuel supply been inspected? Has the injector leak-off been inspected?

Given such driving style, I would choose for petrol.

The facelift of the vehicle was first presented in Europe in 2012. Initially, it was offered with a manual gearbox, but this option was eliminated when the second generation was debuted, which I think occurred in late 2015. If you are not familiar with RE Performance in Swindon, I suggest you visit their Youtube channel. Ricky is widely recognised as the foremost expert on R8 vehicles in the nation.

In my opinion, the V10 manual is the preferable choice, however I must own my prejudice as a previous owner. Regarding the choice between a coupe or spyder, it is very subjective. Opinions vary about the aesthetic appeal of the coupe vs the spyder, with some arguing that the coupe is more visually pleasing, while others contend that the spyder has a more pronounced V10 engine sound. Purchase based on condition and historical records - mileage is of lesser significance. Make careful you have a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) conducted, since these automobiles have the potential to accumulate significant expenses rapidly.

Alternatively, you might have a garage address the issue, ensuring that it is resolved correctly. This approach would also provide you with recourse in the event that the problem persists.

Attempt it at a low temperature. If it functions well, then it may be inferred that the issue is with excessive heat causing the discs to deform.

How did you secure your vehicle while you left it at the supermarket? If the door locked automatically, it implies that the key was in your possession. Therefore, it is possible that the key has been misplaced either at the Supermarket Car Park or within the Supermarket.

Thank you everyone. However, it is peculiar since all functions were operating flawlessly prior to the replacement of the pump pack. I am referring to every single item. The only reason for the alteration was an intermittent pump noise that indicated an impending breakdown. Prior to the alteration, the initiation of the process was immediate and the operation, except for occasional interruptions caused by the pump's noise, was completely flawless, without any problems whatsoever. All of your solutions are generally applicable, but I fail to see their applicability in my specific situation, since the whole system, including the ignition switch, is now brand new. I am still perplexed, but appreciative of your attention. Currently contemplating.

It is illogical. Everything was flawless, except for a malfunctioning pump. Currently, we have acquired new pumps and all the related equipment. However, it is necessary to attempt the cold start twice in order to successfully initiate the system. Recalling that we installed a new cold start injector a few months back just because we had one available in our inventory. Everything was functioning well prior to the replacement of the fuel pump patch. Thank you for your response.

This is for the M104.980 engine. The presence of a whining fuel pump and intermittent cut-outs, with the exception of one instance of stalling, led me to think that the fuel pump is deteriorating. However, the automobile was starting and operating flawlessly. Indeed, several individuals made remarks on the recently acquired vehicle with a mileage of almost half a million km. Therefore, we made the decision to completely replace all components, ranging from the tank strainer to the fuel conduit leading to the front. The equipment used includes Pierburg pumps, Bosch accumulator, MB filter, and all new hoses from MB. Following the visual inspection, we correctly positioned all the hoses, activated the ignition, and conducted a leak detection. There is no information available. Next, the engine is turned on, followed by a few efforts to start it, and eventually it runs smoothly. There are no leaks. Task completed. However.... The automobile requires two efforts to start when it is chilly. On the second try, it is precisely the same as before, happening instantly. Subsequently, the performance is as good as new. If anything, the acceleration is somewhat faster with the new pumps compared to the previous ones. What may be occurring in this situation? Furthermore, in the previous year, I successfully implemented a new fuel pressure regulator, which effectively resolved the issue of delayed ignition. Therefore, every component, ranging from the tank to the fuel distributor, has been replaced with new ones. The metering head/fuel distributor and injectors were replaced in 2017, and have only been used for 80,000 km since then. Perplexed! Are there any intelligent males with ideas? Additionally, we replaced the tank strainer with one from our inventory. However, this is the previous version, which is 33 years old, prior to my efforts to improve it:

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A quick Google search yielded this information....

Apologies, but my car's mileage now stands at 130,000 kilometres. The garage informed me that it may not be necessary to replace the Dual Mass Flywheel (DMF).

I attended a session where they informed me that I need a replacement clutch, but they neglected to mention anything about the dual mass flywheel (DMF). When I inquired, they surmised that I may just need a clutch. May I inquire if it is necessary to repair both components simultaneously or whether it suffices to only replace the faulty clutch?

It seems that you need a substitution for your clutch and dual mass flywheel (DMF). What is the current odometer reading of the car and has the clutch been replaced before? Where exactly is the vibration taking place?

My BMW 120d N47 with a manual gearbox is experiencing a lack of satisfaction when driving. The troubles I am now experiencing are as follows: excessive vibration, challenging or significant resistance while changing gears at high revolutions per minute, juddering when reversing, and high levels of vibration when the engine is idling. Can someone provide some illumination?

Unusual individuals. I always appreciate receiving comments on my vehicle or motorcycle, regardless of whether they are good or negative. Typically, this indicates that they have a similar nature and have a fascination with mechanical matters.

Purchasing a vehicle priced at £1500 is inherently risky. My vehicle, which cost £1700, has been excellent. However, I have had to replace the radiator, brake calliper, front discs, and a few bushes since I purchased it in March 2020. Despite these repairs, I now consider it a long-term possession. Despite my initial low expectations, I am really amazed by the exceptional condition of the steering, suspension, and overall performance, even after covering a distance of 130,000 kilometres. Acquire a high-quality item that brings you joy, obtain a substandard item and you haven't suffered a significant financial loss. This implies that the crucial factor to consider is the current level of quality. Does it provide a satisfactory sensation? Is there any urgent action required to address its condition? Which consumables seem to need imminent replacement, such as tyres, brake pads, oil, brake/clutch fluid, and so on.

It is remarkable how they function exactly as you describe - they should now operate much more smoothly.

There is a limited amount of oil available. The potential causes might be either faulty valve stem seals or worn piston rings. If the vehicle emits smoke after being idle at the lights or after a cold start, the likely cause would be faulty valve seals.

Those plugs are malfunctioning - drive a truck into the holes. Substitute with authentic plants. The engine is using a certain amount of oil - what is the rate of consumption?

Occasionally, the o ring gasket may get dislodged - attempt to repeat the process to see whether it resolves the issue.

Begin with playing swapnostics, since either the coil or plug may be the source of the problem. Attempt to transfer the ignition coil from cylinder 1 to cylinder 2 - does the misfire relocate? Attempt to switch the coil from cylinder 4 to cylinder 3 - does the misfire transfer to the new location? Attempt to manipulate each plug individually - if it exhibits movement, it indicates a faulty component. If no movement occurs, then the issue lies elsewhere, such as with the injector or DME.

Thank you for your recommendations. May I deplete my supply of KY jelly as I have never discovered a practical application for it?