CyberNinja

Mercedes was the last to see him at 42,000 kilometers.

Is it possible to play music from your phone over Bluetooth?

See, when diesels with dpf get fault codes on the ECU, the regen system shuts down. The egr valve is also part of the regen system. On many cars, if the air conditioner doesn't work right, this will also shut down the regen system. I have a 2015 Honda Civic idtec that is getting its egr and dpf removed and remapped in a couple of weeks. It should make just over 200bhp and still

Trouble with these things is that many things will flag that code p420, so its process of elimination ie smoke test proves no unmetered air, then chances are very high its a mechanical issue ie timing related very common, or could be its been using so much oil the cat is now clogged with the crud and thats very very common on them, but going through the process, ie cheaper to test something than replace it, a lot of the time its a number of worn things,, i get them all got one in at mo after refresh, owner put new cat on it never done 02 sensors so we had heater circuit fault code and electronic management fault code, sometimes its just a 02 sensor open short circuit, but on this one it went a stage further and suspect burnt out a driver in the ecu, so ecu been sent off to ECUTESTING.COM found get a good service and life time warranty on repairs from them, and trouble is these engines must run right to stay together,, as running lea

Common things, pcv pipe at rear of engine cracks, exhaust flexi leaks, exhaust valve stems seals allow oil crud to build up on exhaust valve seats and cause misfire as well as dropping unburned air fuel on to upstream 02 sensor, need to scan the ecu for fault codes as well, and live data will provide a clearer picture of what the vehicle is doing. Air escapes must be ruled out prior to examining the timing chain, rocker cover, and camshafts when all four pistons are seated halfway in the bores. This is a simple starting point. I use a smoke tester for much of this, including the valve seats that are escaping due to carbon buildup; I send smoke through the plug opening with all four valves closed.

The change interval appears often on this site. The bothersome part is that VAG in the United Kingdom suggests replacing the belts at half the mileage and time specified in other regions. Last week, I had my 2018 Golf 1.4 non-ACT oil changed at my local independent. I reasoned that even if I left it for another couple of years, it would just be a one-time work in my ownership. Also, if I trade it in a couple of years with a missing belt change, the deal may lose value. My indie also suggested updating the auxiliary belt (sometimes known as the fan belt), while I believe the official suggestion is seven years. I finished it anyhow.

I'm pretty sure that the nuts should be 10mm. I'm not sure if the mono structure, but I think the bolt only goes through the Sierra beam. Most likely, both ends of the bolt need washers. Can you post some pictures?

The nuts should be tight because they squeeze a metal tube inside the rubber bush. Pull them as tight as you can and check to see if they still move. If they're not tight, the holes in the back beam may have gotten bigger. The simplest way to fix this would be to weld a thick screw over the hole in the beam.

Do the nuts and bolts really wiggle? Most likely, the suspension arm has worn bushes.

Or, you could purchase my SL60.

The simplest method is to remove the engine from the top, which requires an engine hoist, as Johnnyroper mentioned. The two top bell housing fasteners are the most difficult to reach. However, I removed mine using a Torx 14 wrench from the top and the remainder from underneath the vehicle. A small bolt near the top holds the bell housing shield in place; if you don't undo the bolt, you can easily rip the shield apart. Oh, and remove the canopy as well. Additionally, do not neglect the braided ground wire that connects the ignition to the chassis; if you do, there will be wailing.

It took around 6 hours for a friend and I to swap out the engine in my BMW e90. However, our understanding was limited, so maybe a more seasoned business might do the task more quickly. Consider the hourly rates for a workday of around six hours. On my M47, we didn't need to disconnect the air conditioning or the power steering cables, so the only fluids I had to replace were the oil and the coolant.

As far as I'm aware, not all automobiles can just use the newest Dot fluid. I have been instructed that my Rover P6 must utilise Dot 3 rather than Dot 4. anything to do with producing problems with chemical reactions involving rubber or seals. can't quite remember, but don't use the most recent. dot 4 in my 45-year-old antique vehicle. It would be wonderful to know if anything has changed.

It simply felt like the appropriate item to mention in the post and/or title, as you say, and I wasn't even thinking about the "Location" on the lhs.

I'm getting tired of stating the obvious.