CyberNinja

It is time to replace the clutch and dual mass flywheel, as mentioned before.

Speak English clearly! I am a Scottish individual who proudly wears a traditional garment known as a kilt.

Yesterday, I visited my nearby Tesco store for a quick trip to buy beer. I parked my vehicle around 20 feet away from another car, which was a white GLB with a licence plate reading '73'. After locking my car, I walked past the other GLB and made a joke to the man who was checking his tyre pressures. "The car is aesthetically pleasing, with an excellent choice of colour and motor." Response: "On what basis do you believe you possess the entitlement and boldness to pass judgement on the vehicle I am currently operating?" "Mutter, Mutter, Mutter" For goodness sake, what is happening to the world!

Are there any tactile controls located on the roof, next to the rearview mirror (RVM)?

Did you turn off the vehicle, remove the key, push the buttons to activate them, and then lock the car shortly afterwards?

The issue has been resolved. The issue was not caused by the injectors, but rather by my ignition key. When the key was turned to the "crank" position, it interrupted the flow of electricity to the ECU at pin 26. I identified the issue when I connected the fuel pump relay and saw that INPA disconnected when I attempted to start the engine for more than 5-6 seconds. Consequently, I discovered that the relay disengaged during the starting process. Thank you for your assistance! I will inspect the injectors at some point in the future. The only reason for not completing the task today was due to my forgetfulness in bringing the appropriate measuring cups.

Understood, I will verify if I can locate any resources for the examination. Is it typical for the pre-supply feed pressure to decrease from 3.8 bar to 1 bar during cranking?

I believe they are satisfactory, but I am uncertain. The donor vehicle originated from Germany, and I myself transported it by backpacking and driving it back to my destination. I never had any issues while the e39 was still in use. I like to recall that the vehicle had around 300,000 km on its odometer. To properly inspect the injectors, it is necessary to have the engine running and measure the return feed from each injector, correct?

Hello. I am experiencing difficulties initiating the ignition of my engine. The engine was suspended on a stand for a considerable period of time until I fitted it. During the first startup, I used a significant amount of initial fuel, which resulted in the engine igniting and running smoothly. Subsequently, it became effortless to start the engine. When rewiring the system once again, as I had previously sketched it temporarily while activating it, I had the same issue of difficulty starting it. Although it started successfully with the assistance of gas, it required gas for every subsequent start. Currently, it is not able to start or ignite. Thus concludes the narrative of the issue, and now we will go to the subsequent aspect. The current issue involves an engine swap in an older Volvo 745, where a stand-alone Engine Control Unit (ECU) has been installed. When using INPA, no "valid" fault code is displayed to indicate the specific problem. However, it is observed that the rail pressure is significantly low. During the initial cranking, the pressure rises to 60 bar, but subsequently drops rapidly to 10 bar. I am now use two pumps to maintain the pressure in the low-pressure line, with one pump located within the fuel tank and the other positioned under the vehicle. The gasoline filter was changed during the installation of the engine. According to INPA, the pre-pressure is 3.81 while the gasoline pumps are functioning. while cranking, the figure declines rapidly. Is this considered normal? Furthermore, I attempted to substitute the o-ring on the fuel pressure regulator. Although it seemed to be in good condition, I decided to replace it while it was detached. However, this replacement did not provide any noticeable changes. Based on my observation, there are no air bubbles present in the fuel line, both before and after starting the engine. I have been contemplating if the rail pressure sensor may be responsible for displaying inaccurate pressure readings, but I am unsure of how to measure it. Is it possible that the boost sensor on the intake might potentially contribute to some of the issues? Sincerely

Ensure that you do not fall victim to any fraudulent activities while dealing with the windscreen EZ.

With the exception of the paint on my vehicle, it is in excellent condition considering its age and mileage. I am not aware of any instances of postponed maintenance, but I would promptly address them if I were made aware of any. Considering my intended use for this vehicle, which involves using it as a daily driver with at least 75% of the mileage being lengthy interstate road trips, it is crucial that I prioritise dependability and avoid any potential concerns. Furthermore, I really regret not opting for complete paint protection film (PPF) at the time of purchasing the vehicle. At that time, I failed to comprehend the significance of the PPF. Now, it seems illogical to get it since they claim it amplifies the damage caused by rock chips. There is a possibility that I may repaint the automobile in the future, however it is unlikely. Within the last 15 days, I have had a meticulous detailing, engaged in 3 instances of self-scrubbing washes, and most recently, availed myself of a high-quality automated wash. During the course of those 15 days, I had travelled a minimum distance of 3,500 kilometres. Travelling and washing inevitably cause paint damage. However, I would rather consistently have a clean automobile, even if it causes some little damage to the paint, as opposed to having a dirty car.

The value provided above is the amount before taxes. Below is the copy of the price received from the Audi dealer today, which I believe also does not include taxes. I will get a quotation for the cost of the brake replacement on Monday, when they are doing the oil change.

My automobile has reached a mileage of over 90,000 and is now undergoing maintenance. One shop provided a quotation of $650 for an oil change, while another dealer offered a quote of $450. Consequently, I chose the dealer with the $450 quote and scheduled an appointment for Monday. They informed me that the final cost would be $296. I believe the individual made an error on the computer, resulting in a fee of $450. I decline to advocate for the amount of 296, since I believe that 450 is a more equitable figure. The price for a windscreen at the dealer is $2850, however I have made a booking with Safelight for $2200. The new PS4 tyres will be available on Monday for a price of $1,450. The cost of purchasing new wiper blades from a dealer is around $200, but on Amazon, they are available for $50 or less. The mechanics will inspect the brakes and advise replacing all four rotors and pads. I will likely get new pads and rear rotors from europarts, which will cost a few thousand dollars more. The number is 2500. The price this week to maintain the R8 in excellent condition amounts to $6,500.

Affirmative, there are seals that are capable of being altered. It should be noted that the manufacturer applied lubricant to the seal on the engine side. I would rotate the intermediate shaft to see whether there is any irregularity in its motion. If the surface is not even, then indeed, it indicates that the seal should be changed. To replace the seal on the gearbox side, it is necessary to dismantle the gearbox in order to remove the shaft and replace the seal.

I own a C250d AMG line equipped with 19-inch tyres that have a 30 aspect ratio. I, too, reside in Lincs and have seen no difficulties gaining clearance.

I have a similar inquiry with my 350SL of comparable age. Have you had any success?

ok,thanks all😇

Affirmative, it does. It is the same when the oil becomes heated. The issue is resolving itself at a rate of 95%.

Examined on a flat surface at both high and low temperatures. If the issue is caused by gearbox fluid, it would manifest in every gear and result in a delay in acceleration, rather than a sudden jerking in a specific gear.

The fluid was replaced one year ago and it remains the correct colour and at the appropriate level.

Hello. My W211 vehicle, equipped with the 722.6 gearbox, began experiencing abrupt movements when in 3rd gear as the temperature dropped. This behaviour occurs only at low temperatures and specifically while the vehicle is in the third gear. The transition between ratios is satisfactory, but, there is a noticeable jerking sensation while the vehicle is in 3rd gear, similar to the feeling of insufficient throttle input when releasing the clutch in a manual gearbox automobile. If the issue is caused by either the torque converter or the lock up solenoid, it should occur in any gear, correct? Any recommendations on the potential cause of this issue, and if it can be detected with the appropriate MB diagnostic tools, would be appreciated.

Kindly ensure that you publish your topics in the appropriate categories, rather than in the General section. Relocating

Wishing you the best of luck! 😁 Continue using the MPS4S tyres and invest in a pair of high-quality winter tyres specifically designed for winter conditions. It will convert the automobile, enabling year-round use.