SkippyTom

Thank you! I procured this item from Amazon since they can supply it by tomorrow before 1 PM. I believe I will need a size 7. I will provide an update on my progress. Thank you once again!

Thank you for the valuable information! It seems that I must purchase a circlip, since BMW no longer sells them, and I cannot locate the old one in the trunk. Do you have any suggestions on where to get this? Thank you!

Greetings everyone, Requesting assistance, please. The strut on the electronic closing boot of my E38 seems to have detached from the primary hinge. The boot does not open effectively and shuts rapidly, hence it is advisable to close it manually. When closed, a panel gap is present. Do you have any suggestions for re-establishing the connection? Or is a replacement component necessary? I attempted to ascertain if the strut would reinsert into the bolt mechanism (both are vividly orange), but I am unable to do this. Thank you!

A concise update: I undertook a quick drive of roughly 7-8 miles today. Upon returning, I examined the vehicle and saw a noticeable leak, which seems to originate from the upper section of the valve cover rather than the gasket at its junction with the cylinder head. The area around the oil filler neck has a slightly elevated part that seems to connect to the main valve cover. This gap was moist, as was the rear upper driver's side (UK) of the valve cover, indicating a significant leak. Inspected the oil level, which was below the midpoint on the dipstick, and subsequently purchased one liter to elevate it to a level between halfway and full. I am now ambivalent about whether to use the automobile for a 100-mile business journey tomorrow. I like the leak to be as transparent as possible; but, this may jeopardize the vehicle. My friend has volunteered to drive, so I will see him in the morning to examine the car and proceed accordingly. The current assessment indicates that a full replacement of the valve cover is necessary, which is not ideal; nonetheless, if this is the situation, it must be accepted. Is it advisable to purchase the original BMW part for £400, despite my financial constraints, or should I consider more cheaper alternatives, such as Febi, which are priced between £100 and £200? I assume the least expensive choices are not authentic. Any advise and recommendations would be appreciated. I generally prefer authentic BMW parts; however, the cost of £400 is currently prohibitive for me. Additionally, I must consider the expense of genuine BMW valve cover gaskets and copper washers for the injectors. Would a used valve cover from an identical specification and model year engine be compatible? Is there any potential source for the leak above the valve cover? A prevalent vulnerability that I need to examine? I will examine the automobile again tomorrow after work to thoroughly assess the leak and anticipate obtaining my answers. I have included an image indicating a green arrow directed toward the seam exhibiting a little oil presence, and a red circle highlighting the location of the main leak. I will attempt to send images showing the precise leak so far.

Indeed, I will also replace the injector gaskets and tighten them to 10 Nm in a spiral pattern without using sealant. I had been seeking a lower setting torque wrench for some time, making this an opportune moment to get one. I will first report my findings to ensure I am proceeding correctly and then inquire with the seller about the usage of an old gasket. He is a reasonable person, and I am certain he will provide an honest response. As I said, it seems like gasket sealant has been applied, so I am hopeful that the issue is limited to that and not anything more severe. I believe I can handle it independently and will verify if I require additional components, such as new copper washers for the injectors or possibly stretch bolts for the injector hold-downs. With all due respect to the seller, he provided the vehicle at a very reasonable price, considering the work he performed; however, he may have taken a few shortcuts where he genuinely believed he could. Nonetheless, this situation is advantageous, as I can communicate with him regarding other items he should consider replacing when addressing vehicles with chain issues, as he engages in this work on the side. Thank you once again, my buddy I need guidance on a new shock configuration and a DDE ECU software upgrade; I will initiate separate discussions for these topics as necessary.

Greetings to everybody. My 2012 E91 318D, with 157,000 miles and an N47-D20C engine, has developed an oil leak. I discovered it a few days ago while conducting tests with ISTA+ on the exhaust sensors. Upon placing my hand at the rear of the engine, I detected oil. I recorded a video to inspect the area, as access was restricted, and observed the oil leak. However, I could not ascertain the precise source; the oil was located at the rear, on the driver's side, and slightly at the top of the rocker cover on the driver's side. Thoroughly cleaned the region, finding no oil around the injectors. There is no noticeable leakage around the rocker cover gasket, however there seems to be sealant that is shimmering and somewhat moist. After running the engine, I inspected the rocker gasket area for oil seepage, but saw no obvious signs. The rocker cover does not seem to be fractured or cracked; nevertheless, I will examine it and the gasket region more thoroughly when I drive the vehicle to work on Wednesday, since I need to get a liter of oil just in case. I purchased the automobile in February 2024, and the seller just replaced the chain and installed a new clutch due to the prior chain's loudness. It seems he may have used the previous rocker gasket or even changed it; nevertheless, it seems gasket sealant has also been applied, resulting in the visible rubbery material between the head and rocker cover. I will ascertain information from the vendor, since I remain in contact with him. I suspect the rocker cover is the issue, since it seems to be a prevalent problem with the N47; I will post my results in a few days. The oil level was somewhat low when I first identified the problem, prompting me to add a quarter of a liter that I had remaining. Upon checking it today, two days later, it seems low once again. I assessed the level while cold, hot, and after a three-minute cooldown, and it looks to be barely over the minimal threshold. I will assess the situation in a few days when I use the automobile for a 100-mile round trip to work and will report my observations. The only additional point I should note is that the engine was very hot on the day I identified the leak, which may be attributable to low oil levels, although I am certain I replenished it three weeks before. It is conceivable that it may also be... The valve cover may be damaged due to heat and may be deformed. Fracture located in the valve cover. The previous gasket may have been reused following the timing chain replacement, and gasket sealant was subsequently applied. I am currently optimistic that it only requires a new gasket; if that is the case, would it be prudent to additionally apply a gasket sealant? Any other recommendations on leak detection and guidance on gasket replacement procedures? I anticipate that the injectors will not be very difficult to extract, given they were presumably installed in January of this year when the chain was rebuilt. Are there any further factors to explore about the source of the leak, and any advice would be highly appreciated? I will provide an update after I identify the source of the leak, and because the vehicle has completed 8,000 miles, I will do an oil change immediately after rectifying the issue. Finally, I will detach the turbo pipe to inspect for oil leaks and assess the impeller for any play. Once again, any assistance would be much appreciated.

Navigate to the 'Vehicle' option located on the front screen's left side. Scroll to the left and choose 'Convenience'. Next, locate the 'Advance Anti Theft' option and uncheck the box. The Gen 4 Sportage has a physical on/off button located in the overhead console, making it more convenient.

The most probable cause is a malfunctioning or jammed hydraulic tappet, which is then likely to be accompanied by camshaft attrition. The valve train noise occurs while the engine is running at half its speed, whereas the noise from the bottom end (piston/rod/crank) occurs when the engine is running at its maximum speed.

Retain it. I have seen automobiles being sold on platforms such as BaT that are equipped with modified exhaust systems. A common inquiry that arises is if the original exhaust system is still available. Although the customer may not intend to wear it, the availability of the choice is appealing. Furthermore, losing a sale due to it would be really undesirable, but it is rather simple to retain it and prevent such a situation.

Can you confirm that the rear brakes were not experiencing higher temperatures than the front brakes prior to the completion of the task?

Best of luck, slim. The total cost for my two-year insurance on the c180 with confused was around £1456. Attempt to include them into an existing policy, since this often results in a more advantageous cost-effectiveness.

I had a similar problem with a non-Mercedes-Benz vehicle, specifically related to difficulties starting the engine in cold conditions. A leaking injector would release gasoline into the engine overnight, causing the fuel rail to become empty and enabling air to enter the system. The first effort was unsuccessful, but subsequent attempts, maybe the second or third, would prove successful since the air had been completely removed.

Congratulations, carBlacken! These automobiles can be rather captivating and engrossing. I recommend acquiring VCDS from Ross Tech since it may provide significant assistance. Simon, get my sincerest wishes. Please ensure that any fluids you use adhere to the VAG guidelines, since these automobiles are quite sensitive.

Additionally, kindly provide us with other details on your vehicle.

I believe you will have no difficulties. However, I recommend seeing a tyre expert. Present your vehicle to them and get their confirmation.

I have primarily observed this phenomenon in engines that have been overheated or are running very lean. In most cases of overheated cars, the seats in the cylinder head have dropped out. At this point, the decision arises whether to take the risk of installing new seats only to discover that the head is cracked. I have encountered this situation a couple of times, and the second time I concluded that it is more prudent to replace the head when overheating causes the seats to drop out, as it eliminates the risk and provides a better way forward.

Spared me the effort of typing it

Initial test to check the basic functionality of a system or software. The most probable cause of the issue is the leakage of valve seats, which is an often seen occurrence.

Discovered this product in continental Europe, where the prices are high.

These are the disadvantages I have identified for the Lamborghini: Although they are somewhat more costly, the difference between them in terms of both components and performance has been very little after Gen2. The Huracan is notably less pleasant to sit in, without any complications or nuances. At every vehicle event I go, there is always a large number of Huracans, but I typically find myself as the only owner of a R8. On many occasions, children have strolled by the Huracan to get a glimpse of the R8, since it was their coveted automobile. The electronics and interior of the Huracan exhibit a somewhat worse quality. Repair costs are higher, unless you choose for a local repair business or do the repair yourself. Regarding the street, the performance is almost same. I own a rear-wheel drive (RWD) R8, and I find that the lack of all-wheel drive (AWD) may sometimes cause difficulties with maintaining traction. On the other hand, the steering responsiveness and agility (the vehicle feels more nimble) are superior with a rear-wheel drive (RWD) configuration. If you have a preference for the style, then I would recommend choosing the Huracan. That is a subjective choice that can only be determined by you. However, for many individuals, it is difficult to rationalise the additional $100,000 cost for a R8 with an altered exterior design.

What was the method of recording used? Is the camera mounted on a gantry or is it a portable gun? The only feasible method I can think of to use Kia data is by manually operating the gadget and challenging its calibration. (If that is still a current practice) However, pursuing legal action would include appearing in court, where a conviction might result in a more substantial monetary penalty and accumulation of demerit points. Seeking legal counsel might be advisable, since they can assess your financial capacity. Considering the potential expenses associated with counsel.

The Dyson V10

Do men who own convertible cars have concerns about the security of their soft tops being deliberately cut to obtain unauthorised access? Undoubtedly, they are less safe. However, is this a legitimate cause for concern?

In reaction to this headline, I have two words to offer. Obviously