Chrishazle

I will get them examined since I was not aware that they may potentially cause problems. It didn't occur to me since it hasn't been present on any of my other vintage "Sunday" autos. Would it clarify the conduct that occurs only when the temperature is warm or hot? I appreciate your suggestion.

Thank you. I assume that the fluid has deteriorated, but it is important verifying to rule out any other potential issues. The lack of performance in low temperatures may indicate a decrease in viscosity when the automatic gearbox fluid (ATF) is heated. The gearbox of the vehicle has a complete maintenance history, as shown by the Digital SR, which shows that it was serviced at 37000. Therefore, it may be somewhat overdue for maintenance, but not excessively so. Greetings

Furthermore, this likely affirms that the 50,000-mile, 2009 SL350 I purchased has been very light on problems, since it is referred to as "SuperLicht". 🙂 Both the rotted-out fuel line and the minor C pillar leak were repaired inexpensively. Nevertheless, I must mention that I saw a gearbox problem during kickdown for the first time yesterday. The gear shifts, both up and down, are very smooth with regular use. Even when applying significant force, the transition between gears is smooth. Occasionally, there may be a little, clumsy downshift while the vehicle is warm. Engage the kickdown feature to experience forceful and impactful gear transitions. When starting from a complete stop, the P and D gears engage smoothly and without any noise or difficulty. During regular driving, there are no unexpected gear changes or instances when the gear is held in place. Has anybody encountered this previously? After doing an extensive search through the discussions, I have not come across any comparable information. The vehicle has not had an ATF replacement, and I am curious whether the issue is just due to the oil losing its viscosity when heated, resulting in occasional rough downshifts while the vehicle is warm. Can anybody provide insights into the possible reason or share their experience with a similar issue? Thank you

Based on my understanding, it is permissible to use yellow Daytime Running Lights (DRLs) if the headlights and front side lights are also yellow. Yellow daytime running lights (DRLs) paired with white headlights would not comply with DVSA 4.2.3 regulations, thereby constituting a 'minor' fault during a MOT test. Prior to installing any modifications, such as the one mentioned, I would consult with my local and amicable MOT tester. This is especially important if the modification deviates from the standard complete yellow lighting, which is seen on vehicles that are originally equipped with them.

I lack expertise in the field of economics. Actually, I prefer purchasing at a high price and selling at a lower price. However, I am curious about the specific colour of the item in question. What is the colour of Panther Black Crystal?

There are two potential options. 1) The brakes are experiencing friction and resistance, even though they were found to be functioning properly after inspection. Conduct a test by driving a moderate distance without using the brakes and then monitor the temperatures after stopping with minimum braking. 2) The front brakes are insufficient. Conduct a test by inspecting the front brakes to ensure they are functioning correctly.

That is the circuit I would most likely use. However, I would do a thorough examination of those 'extra' slots by use a testlight in combination with a fuse diagram, and if possible, following Kenny's approach. To maintain simplicity.

There is no specific orientation available. When the fuse is removed, one connection will have an active electrical current on either the auxiliary or ignition circuit - depending on the circuit you have selected - while the other connector will not have any current. When inserting the add-a-fuse, ensure that the red wire is connected to the side of the fusebox connection that does not have an active electrical current. Next, insert the original fuse into the socket that has two spade connections, except the one with the red wire (a case of negative logic). This will reactivate the original regulated circuit. Insert the new 5 amp fuse into the alternate circuit, ensuring that it is connected to the red wire. This will activate your 'new' circuit and provide it with protection. Alternatively, you may follow Kenny's approach, which is my favourite choice if there happens to be an open slot in the fusebox.

Connect it by inserting the red wire into the fused side of the fusebox, specifically on the side where the old fuse is removed, known as the 'dead' side. If that is comprehensible. The original car fuse is inserted into the two connections that are furthest away from the red wire. The new circuit fuse is inserted into the connections that are in closest proximity to the red wire. Note that the two fuse connections are distinct and might contribute to the state of being perplexed.

The whole auditory experience was satisfactory. Except for the subwoofer. I am not an enthusiast of bass, yet the sound produced by the speaker is hardly imperceptible. There is a suggestion that the programme has been intentionally limited or restricted. I installed a £100 under-seat subwoofer under the passenger seat. Flawless.

I believe Ice Silver is referring to the frontal grilles and rear bumper segments. I am sceptical that the current colour is accurate, nevertheless, it seems to be a shade of silver or a deeper shade of grey. The primary paint used is Suzuka.

The air conditioning condenser has a reservoir... I will investigate the matter. Appreciation is extended.

Thank you. Perhaps I should have the bleeding process repeated, however it was performed by a renowned service that specialises in Mini vehicles, so I assumed they would be familiar with the right procedure. Following the occurrence of bleeding, I was assured that it is a common and not a concerning issue. However, given my extensive experience of travelling long distances since 1968, I have never encountered a similar situation. Therefore, I am seeking more professional perspectives to further evaluate the matter. I do not believe that there are any genuine performance concerns with the systems. Both the engine and cabin heat reach regular levels promptly without becoming excessively hot.

Appreciation is expressed. The floor is not wet, while there is no sunroof, the car may be converted into a convertible. Unfamiliar with air conditioning drain. There is no indication of incoming water; rather, it is the water that is already there that is in motion.

While driving my recently acquired BMW Cooper S from the series one, I have noticed a distinct sound of water sloshing about while starting from a stationary position and when navigating tight curves. This sound can only be attributed to the movement of water inside the heater matrix. I have had the system purged and refilled, but it had little or no impact. Does anybody else have the same issue, and preferably a remedy - or comfort that it is a common occurrence and not anything to be concerned about?

This.

Cars include an abundance of useless wires, connections, threaded holes/studs, and voids that are concealed by trim covers. It is particularly significant on earlier automobiles, especially if that specific model had a wide range of options for customers to choose from when placing an order. Producing a limited number of wire looms for all models was a more convenient and cost-effective approach, although it may seem inefficient by today's standards. However, this was the common practice at a time when some automobiles had manually operated rear windows but electrically powered front windows, as well as heated or non-heated wing mirrors. Here is a recent example where Jaguar chose not to create a separate engine block for their V6 model, but instead opted to deactivate a few cylinders.

It serves a function, but not on your automobile.

I purchased an AGM H6 battery from Walmart for my 2014 Audi R8. Although the installation process was rather challenging, I managed to complete it without having to remove the wipers.

It is worth noting that there is a very skilled Mercedes-Benz expert named Steve at Avantgarde Mercedes, located in Clevedon near Bristol.

Attempt to unlock using the key fob as a component of the comprehensive unlocking system. This might determine if the roof switch on the automobile is defective. Purchase a pre-owned icarsoft MB2 for the price of £100.

I have had both a black automobile and a white car. While they do look great when they are clean, they can be rather troublesome. since previously said, a silver or light grey car is the most practical choice since it does not show dirt as easily. Unless you like washing your car every day, it is advisable to choose for a lighter colour.

It is possible that my previous dark red Cavalier was involved in a rear-end collision and subsequently repaired. The paint work was flawless, rendering the difference indiscernible under natural light. However, in the illumination of street lights, it was readily apparent where the fresh paint had been applied.

Thank you. It seems that there might be several possibilities. Cars will be sent to the garage on Monday, so we will be able to determine the exact issue at that time. I will share the result after I have confirmed it.

Thank you for the information. I have scheduled an appointment for the automobile to be inspected at a nearby garage. The automobiles have a relatively low mileage of just over 40,000 kilometres, which indicates a potentially high cost.