DSM10000

Thank you for the kind welcome and response. I was enquiring if there was a setting I overlooked. It seems peculiar due to its excessive volume. My neighbor's Volvo electric emits a little sound while reversing, however mine produces a continuous beep in reverse. I will see the dealer this week.

I just purchased a 2024 Nissan Juke Automatic Tekna+ and have observed that it emits a loud beep while in reverse. Internally, it seems loud; but, outside, it is louder than a truck. I futilely perused the handbook and settings, since everything is unfamiliar to me. Otherwise, the vehicle is excellent. Does anybody have suggestions for disabling it? Thank you

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I suspect they used an old gasket with sealant. They get brittle during heat cycles and should constantly be changed; I never reuse them. I do not use sealer, since the rubber gasket is sufficient and BMW does not recommend its usage. Remember to acquire four new injector seals while replacing the gasket and ensure that the injectors are reinserted into their original cylinders.

I had same issues with my last 330d when the intercooler-manifold angle pipe fractured. Subpar performance, excessive black smoke, and a loud hissing sound from the turbocharger under load. The new pipe resolved the issue. Which garage have you selected, and have they conducted a diagnostic assessment yet? They have to verify not only the stored and existing trouble codes but also the live engine operating parameters. Will promptly provide pertinent information on the engine's status. I can do all of that with my little app-based scanner, which cost me £40, so I am perplexed as to why any reputable shop does not first connect the automobile to diagnostics and analyze live data. They undoubtedly ought to be. Certainly, the DPF will get obstructed if the engine is not functioning well, which it clearly is not. A diagnosis should have been conducted prior to replacing the DPF, since it will inevitably get obstructed again if the engine is emitting excessive soot and exhibiting a deficiency in power. My intuition is that during the alteration of the cam cover, they likely disrupted or damaged a connection, resulting in a boost leak that has caused your issues. However, given the vehicle did not display such symptoms before to their intervention, I would assert that restoring it to its original condition is the minimum they should do.

You are correctly using the parallel approach for charging the battery, which is akin to jump-starting. Connecting a parallel battery will start the charging of the depleted battery independently, without the need for your Ring to be attached. A substantial current may flow, necessitating the use of jumper wires. I would connect them up and stand well back for a while before trying the Ring. If the battery you are attempting to charge registers at 0.0 volts, it may be irreparably destroyed. A battery is considered totally drained at 10.5 volts.

Particularly, gratitude is extended to KSEBS.

I extend my profound gratitude.The relay resolved the beginning issue, but generated many error signals in Diagnostics. Ran clumsily. Swirl flap device replaced.As pleasant as can be.The leaking O-ring coated the device with oil, causing a short circuit and damaging the relay.I brought it home last night, and the audio stopped functioning, while the vehicle operates beautifully.Extremely pleased Thank you, gentlemen.

I will get it on friday and attempt that, and I appreciate your work in assisting me.I really hope this is successful. Ksebs has also answered, indicating that I should do this initially as well. I will update you if it is successful.Salutations

It has taken me the whole day; my head is aching. I will not be investing all that money in it. I like the vehicle; but, it fails to start 70% of the time. Run-flat and ESP notifications shown on the dashboard. When it begins, it is flawless. If the negative terminal is not toggled on and off, the device operates, and messages vanish. Inform me that you are acquainted with a gentleman. 🙂

None , bvlenci

Indeed, I have tried both keys, and the issue persists with both. It is not displaying errors at Mercedes dealers.They are equally perplexed.Two months is an extended duration to endure this malfunction, however lately, its negative battery lead was reattached, and it begins immediately.

No, nothing; it remains in Lookers. Even when it fails to start, no error codes are present.

I often need to separate and replace the negative battery connector; otherwise, the vehicle fails to start. Any suggestions? It has been in Lookers for six weeks.

2011 S-Class 350 Blue Efficiency. Occasionally fails to start. Remove the key, reinsert it, lock, and unlock. It commences after a duration of two. When it fails to start, the dashboard displays "Run Flat Unavailable" and the automobile skid sign is illuminated. Subsequently, it commences flawlessly. It may occur again today or in a few days. All readouts have been obtained, nevertheless the issue remains unclear. Express gratitude for any assistance received. Thank you, gentlemen.

You may attach the motion sensors using adhesive tape, as others have already done.

You may purchase it for a price of £10. However, it seems to be the portion intended for those who are reviewing the information after an accident. If the registration is detected on the Navigate system, you will be shown with the insurance information on the screen. This will include the policy number, the name of the insurer, and the contact details for making a claim.

Is your charging cable insufficient in length, or is there a loose connection in either the plug socket or the charger?

Yes, a quarter or 0.25 litres of this oil is beneficial since it has improved cohesive properties and increased lubricity.

I often use a quarter of a bottle for this purpose. By adding some of it to the engine oil and rubbing it between your fingers, you can easily detect the difference between the two substances.

Typically, people choose to purchase a 5-liter container since it is more cost-effective in the long term and may be used in various gears.

It is of high quality. I have seen instances where individuals have caused damage to the camshafts of N14 engines, resulting in the oil light illuminating at idle. By adding a certain substance to the oil, the light may be prevented from turning on. This substance effectively increases the viscosity of the oil when it reaches high temperatures. However, it is worth noting that this practice is not advisable, since oil is typically tested up to 100 degrees Celsius, but the Prince engines operate at temperat

The product I use is versatile and can be used in engines. It has a stop leak ingredient that helps seal and slightly thickens the oil, making it more adhesive. I also use it undiluted to assemble engines. You can find more information about it in the link below. https://www.lucasoil.co.uk/products/engine-oil-additives/lucas-heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer

I use a completely synthetic 75/80 gear oil and enhance its performance by adding 300mls of Lucas oil addition. This combination really improves the smoothness of the transmission.

Typical narrative of how a customer will use it. Either store it in a collection or drive it extensively, accumulating miles and potentially devaluing it by at least £30,000 when it comes time to sell. Alternatively, you may get a high-quality item, as suggested by Mike in his previous article, and use it for a few years. In all likelihood, you will only experience a little depreciation, if any, when you eventually decide to sell it. If the owner insists on their value, the inclusion of a buyer's premium will significantly inflate the ultimate cost, making it exorbitantly high.