keithmerc220

I will keep it in mind for the next time; I feel like it was probably just a false lock. Is that to say that I was successful in releasing the crank bolt upon startup? It is appreciated.

The dowel slid into the hole with a satisfying thunk, so I'm very sure it's in there now; I appreciate your response. I didn't feel any resistance or contact with anything, so I'm hoping no valves were hit.

Excuse me, As I work on the timing chain, I would appreciate any guidance. The cams are locked, so I removed everything—which I mistakenly believed was the crank—and left the car for a few days to wait for the kit to come. I was going to tighten the crank bolt today when the crank suddenly spun as I began the initial torque! I either failed to lock the crank properly or accidentally knocked it at some point, so the cams remained locked and never moved. I'm confused about my next move. Now that I've locked it correctly again and the pistons are all the same height, how can I make sure the time is right and I'm not spinning out of control? Thank you once more.

Sounds like a lead sparking out or an earth leak, which might cause a short. In the dead of night, inspect the engine leads for the presence of blue sparks earthing.

The MY26 facelift model is what I said.

Mine was operational on the same day I picked it up, so I know the MY26 makeover works.

I decided to proceed. I made the payment this morning. I will admit it was slightly nerve-racking pressing the confirm button on the transfer. Delivery has been scheduled for next week. I will update the thread regardless of the outcome so others can make informed decisions.

It's quite unlikely that I will ever consider purchasing it. Just like I mentioned before, cars end up on this island in the end, although I'm disappointed that it happened sooner rather than later. (There are some choice bangers floating around since we don't need a MOT or anything like that.) I should include in the DPF talk that the vehicle has not been driven more than 2.5 miles and has never been out of second gear since I took possession of it in August of last year. I attempted to resolve the dpf light by driving continuously up and down the new section of road for 45 minutes while maintaining high rpm in first gear, but it was unsuccessful. It has been really chilly here; for several weeks, the temperature has not risen over 6 degrees, and there were even lower periods before that. I'm going to start looking for a good scanner. Many thanks

The feedback is appreciated. Do you have any ideas as to what could be stopping it from starting? Since it isn't getting off to a hilly or easy start, it appears to be receiving instructions not to catch.

This is a great response. I wish I had followed this procedure when the car was still running after seeing this video a while ago. We also don't have the same high-tech plug-in unit that the person is using, so it's possible we couldn't have done it. However, I appreciate the suggestion and will investigate this more.

Hi there, I'm hoping that those of you with more expertise can match my situation with some recommendations after reading through a lot of the earlier postings about starting troubles, but there's so much conflicting information! Last year, I purchased the automobile and transported it to the island where we reside. Old 4x4s are dying a slow death on this relatively tough terrain. I figured it would last a while, had a MOT, and seemed to be in excellent shape, so I bought it. It was noticeable upon initial delivery that it started slowly but consistently. It seemed like the crank was all it took to get going, but even after it caught, it took forever for the engine to really kick in and get rpm high enough to drive. This problem persisted over time. It finally started a few days ago, but ever since then, it hasn't turned over. I even purchased a new battery, but it didn't help. Checked for fuel leaks and primed the pump. I attempted a hill bump start, but it was unsuccessful. No luck with the easy start method. Concerned that the car wouldn't start when I initially acquired it, my mechanic neighbour hooked it up (using the rudimentary phone app Ob11 connection) and the diagnostic trouble code came up: dpf error. I made an effort to travel this way back when, but the island roads were so narrow that I couldn't go faster than 30 miles per hour. Ever since, the dpf light has been left on. No errors appeared when my neighbour replugged it, but the engine and dpf lights were still on. It is his recommendation that you test it without the dpf at all. There is no way we can bring the car to a repair shop that offers better plug-in alternatives. As I've read in other threads, he speculated that the timing chain may have slipped. Feedback is much appreciated!

hello there

I am so grateful.

Hello there, I'm grateful. Based on my cursory examination, it appears... One possible cause of water gathering under the passenger seat is a broken or leaking air conditioning line. This is the standard first diagnostic for this common problem, and I don't know how to fix it. It's like when I go to the mechanic and ask for brake pads without checking, and he says I also need new discs, which doubles the cost. 2) The second issue is a leaking windscreen seal, which can be simply fixed according to a YouTube video that shows how to use fairy liquid and a watering can to locate the leak.Instead of going to a mechanic and having them change it—which would be expensive and risky—I can do this and find out how to fill it. thirdly, seeping out of the lamppost. I'm crossing my fingers that it's this because I can easily fill up my boot with water. My section necessitates additional research. Hopefully, I will be able to determine the source of the problem by testing these things over the next few days. In the meanwhile, I am crossing my fingers that the upcoming week or so doesn't see an excessive amount of rainfall. I will also make sure to check the fuses; I really hope a new system isn't necessary. For some reason, I'm transported back to the 1980s while I'm driving right now. There is complete silence, no on-demand heating, and nowhere to charge my phone. The Sat Nav was useless anyhow, so I don't really miss it. I am not a happy Nissa Noter right now. Brenda must get herself together or else. This is an extremely musty Nissan Note E11 diesel driver's way of saying thanks.

I am grateful.

Your reply is really appreciated. Thank you very much.

It all started with the screen and radio acting up, and eventually they just stopped working altogether. Additionally, the heater doesn't always work. After some time has passed with the engine running, it will turn on. I can't figure out where the car's serious leak is coming from; water collects primarily beneath the passenger seat. The electrical issues have me wondering if the mysterious leak is to blame. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you ahead of time.

They removed the handbrake shoes from the 5 series with the E6x model.

Thank you for the guidance. It occurs solely when turning either direction; it does not happen when reversing with the steering wheel positioned straight. I will ensure to verify this. 🙂

It is rear-wheel drive; I apologise for not specifying earlier. 😅

Hello there, people. I require assistance or guidance on a 2012 BMW F30 equipped with a 2.0L N47 engine. When reversing, it produces several thudding noises from either side. It appears to originate from an impact beneath the vehicle. While in the vehicle, I replaced the passenger side tension strut/control arm (the one with the large hydraulic bushing) due to a defective ball joint, hoping it would resolve the issue; but, it did not. It appears to occur exclusively while making a turn in either direction while proceeding straight. I have not observed it. The sound is unpleasant, resembling the impact of striking something beneath. Any suggestions or input would be highly appreciated. Thank you.

I recognised the familiarity; it has prompted my recollection. It appears that AI still has considerable progress to make.

Artificial Intelligence proposes this. The purple square featuring a vertical line and a star symbol signifies a sensor or electronic control unit alarm in your Mercedes W205. This is a generic alert, frequently associated with a malfunction in a particular system, and it is generally accompanied by a supplementary message on the dashboard display that delineates the precise issue. Proposed Measures Verify for a supplementary message: The primary dashboard interface will probably exhibit language (e.g., "Inoperative", "Refer to Owner's Manual") elucidating the particular system experiencing the malfunction (e.g., Active Brake Assist, ESP, or a designated sensor). Reinitialise the vehicle: The problem may occasionally stem from a transient electronic malfunction, which can be rectified by powering down the vehicle, removing the key for around 30 seconds, and then restarting the engine. Exercise caution while driving: This symbol, when displayed in yellow or purple, indicates a caution rather than an immediate red-level safety concern, allowing you to proceed to a safe place or an authorised repair facility. Seek the assistance of a technician: Due to the symbol's lack of specificity, a diagnostic scan instrument (OBD-II scanner) is required to ascertain the exact error code and underlying problem.

Mine is equipped with spring assist; I merely need to determine how to access it for adjustment.

Yes, it automatically elevates; however, for the past two months, it has not done so. I observe that it possesses springs on both sides.