keithmerc220

My point is that purchasing a new engine, specifically a used one, could potentially lead to the purchase of a puppy.

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It's highly probable that the knocking is caused by the bottom end crank shell bearings, big ends, etc. It's possible that you won't need to replace the engine, though the cost will be £3k or more.Along with you, Johnny Roper will be enquiring about the (n57) I assume engine.He might be able to fix it if you happen to live close by.

Thank you! I was hoping they provided some protection, but I did notice that they were small. The EV2 will end up with a dirty rear end just like the EV3, which is a shame, but I suppose the spray can't be stopped from reaching that level.

I was wondering if the EV2 would experience the same issue as the EV3 did with the back end getting really dirty. My guess is yes. If that's the case, I'm curious if installing mud flaps will help.

The same as before. Yes, you can start the engine without the belt. The alternator and anything else driven by the belt could be the problem, but if the noise goes, then you are on the right track because it could just be a tensioner.

Many have noted that having your vehicle examined by a dealer as soon as possible is a benefit of the JLR warranty with recovery. Otherwise, the dealer may take a few months to look at it, depending on the dealer. With a non-JLR warranty, you won't be tied to an LR dealer, so it's a good choice if you know a reliable independent.

Thanks! I've only tested it on the underwater side, but the door still turns on the inside light. I can verify if the passenger side exhibits the identical behaviour.

Thanks, and there have been a few "intermittent faults" with the car, but they are manageable and relatively minor.

Hello! My Kia has just gone over 3,000 miles and is due for its service at the end of the month. It's the second one in a row. On occasion, the door warning tone has failed to activate. Whether the car is in drive, neutral, or reverse, or if the lights are on or off, it appears to function. According to Kia, they can perform a diagnostic on the vehicle, but there will be a fee. Even if they don't find a problem, I will still be charged. Anything you can tell me would help a lot.

A leak lets air in while the engine is cooling but coolant out while it's running, which might sound alarming. The coolant that ought to be drawn from the reservoir is instead displaced by that air. Like me, you can keep a valley plate leak under control by checking the coolant under the pressure cap weekly. There may not be enough coolant in the engine if you only check the reservoir level twice a year. You won't be able to tell when there's a more serious issue with the cooling system because of the odour of coolant caused by the seepage. A job of that magnitude would easily cost $1500 USD, and it would require about 10 hours of actual work. They might as well change the gaskets on the valve covers while they're at it.

Is there any liquid present on the floor behind the clutch pedal? It may be beneficial to inspect behind the pedal to determine if it is damp.

Gotta love that new ride! 🚗

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For some reason, I just can't fathom why you don't see one. Searching Google for "leapmotor forum uk" took all of a few seconds.

I am approximately a year away from replacing my Stonic, but I also appreciated the EV2 during the initial driving event. Nonetheless, to add complexity, I have also had an EV3 as a service loan for a day, and it was quite remarkable. I would contemplate a low mileage EV3 in comparison to a new EV2. Issues of the affluent class.

🙃🙃🙃

Maybe the sensor?

What happened to my CLS required me to replace the relay and all six glow plugs. Nothin' changed. It appears that one of the fuel pumps is leaking fuel back into the tank, according to further reading. After two ignition cycles, it began immediately.

https://www.afterone.co.uk/

During the interior lighting upgrades I had in June, I was offered this potential option. Connecting a new module to the rear of the sat nav makes no change in terms of screen size—wired or wireless—in the absence of the module. In a nutshell, Google says it all. How to Install Android Auto with a Full Screen Smart Integration Boxes for Aftermarket Use: These covert hardware modules eliminate the need to cut wires by plugging into the rear of your original head unit. They operate in tandem to circumvent the split-screen restriction, allowing you to enjoy full-screen Android Auto on your big OEM screen. When you want to return to the original Mercedes menu, just hold down the "Back" button on the OEM controller. [1, 2, 3] OBD / Activation of Software: Expert suppliers provide OBD2 plug-in programmers or firmware upgrades that recode the COMAND NTG 5.5 unit to display full widescreen ratios if your Mercedes has factory half-screen capability enabled via USB. This business that performed my upgrades and provided full-screen Android Auto is located quite a ways from Stockport, and it would be more convenient to have it done there. Automotive Accessories and Upgrades from Afterone UK

The great unwashed have considerably easier access than ever before to get up close and personal with supercars these days, so it's definitely personal. Nick, his wife, and their beloved Ferrari were a sight to behold at the former residence of Queen Camilla. Describe myself as "old fashioned."

Those of us who don't drive "need" to-be-seen Supercars in his parking lot Bikes could be used for the final few miles. Wow, it's terrible. If not, you should allow at least an hour for entry and another hour for exit. And even more if it rains and churns the field. However, take advantage of this while you can because Nick Mason is 82 years old.Hoping you could make it?

To begin, fill the tank to a level of around 20 litres. You must still drain the left side of the saddle to a level of around 20 litres even if all the fuel is in the left saddle. Take off the two covers (found beneath the back seat) using the four bolt head screws on each. Turn the lock rings using the removal tool to unlock them. The top connections (on the left side of the saddle) may likely leak, so you'll need to use clean rags to wipe them up. Undo the fuel pump connectors on the right side of the saddle and tie a string around one of them. (unlock connection with two push clips and one gasoline supply button—yellow) While keeping an eye out for the fuel level float, remove the fuel level sensor assembly from the left hand side. Now secure the ends of the three new pipes with the string. Carefully insert the LHS fuel level sensor assembly into the LHS saddle, wiggle the pipes through the saddle's hole that connects both sides, and last, bring the ends of the pipes into the RHS saddle. Before you connect the pipes to the gasoline pump on the right side of the vehicle, make sure the fuel sensor assembly on the left side is situated appropriately. Prior to installing the lock ring, ensure that the spherical washer is snugly positioned around the plastic housings.(The ring should have a blue mark; line it up with the attachment point's blue mark.) Turn the ring (pushing down on the washer) with the tool until it snaps into position. Be sure to fill the tank halfway. Turn the key to the second position and keep it there until the gasoline pump stops; do this many times. Make sure there are no leaks or tears around the lock rings by running the engine for a while. When the water is clear, fill the tank to the top and check for leaks once more. Put the covers back on after that. (I reinforced the entry locations with more rubber to avoid wire chafing.) Things that go wrong: 1) You can't actually get the gasoline connectors to go to the wrong lugs, but the big one with the yellow button connector at the top of the fuel pump. One with a black rubber ring or gland goes to the one below it, and the one below that gets the one without. 2) If there is any gasoline leaking around the lock ring, remove it, turn the circular washer around by, say, 90 degrees, and then lock it again. 3) As the air is being pumped out of the tank, you may hear gurgling sounds coming from it. Here is my clumsy description of how the saddle tank works: The high-pressure fuel pump and fuel quantity control valve are located on the left side of the engine, and the fuel pump transfers gasoline from there to the engine through the big yellow button connector on the top. No problem. To make sure the petrol pump gets the most fuel possible, empty the left side saddle in preference of the right side. In order to do this, the gasoline is pushed to the left side fuel level sensor assembly via an additional pipe. From there, it flows via a nozzle submerged in fuel at the base of the assembly, which forces fuel into a pipe that recirculates to the right side saddle. It will not be noticeable until the gasoline level drops, at which point the leak will become apparent and air will be able to enter the fuel circulation pipes, therefore a leak in these latter two pipes is actually not a problem. In such case, air is sent to the right-hand tank and the nozzle stops working. In this scenario, there is petrol remaining in the left side saddle, according to your fuel gauge, but there is no fuel in the right side pump.