keithmerc220

The great unwashed have considerably easier access than ever before to get up close and personal with supercars these days, so it's definitely personal. Nick, his wife, and their beloved Ferrari were a sight to behold at the former residence of Queen Camilla. Describe myself as "old fashioned."

Those of us who don't drive "need" to-be-seen Supercars in his parking lot Bikes could be used for the final few miles. Wow, it's terrible. If not, you should allow at least an hour for entry and another hour for exit. And even more if it rains and churns the field. However, take advantage of this while you can because Nick Mason is 82 years old.Hoping you could make it?

To begin, fill the tank to a level of around 20 litres. You must still drain the left side of the saddle to a level of around 20 litres even if all the fuel is in the left saddle. Take off the two covers (found beneath the back seat) using the four bolt head screws on each. Turn the lock rings using the removal tool to unlock them. The top connections (on the left side of the saddle) may likely leak, so you'll need to use clean rags to wipe them up. Undo the fuel pump connectors on the right side of the saddle and tie a string around one of them. (unlock connection with two push clips and one gasoline supply button—yellow) While keeping an eye out for the fuel level float, remove the fuel level sensor assembly from the left hand side. Now secure the ends of the three new pipes with the string. Carefully insert the LHS fuel level sensor assembly into the LHS saddle, wiggle the pipes through the saddle's hole that connects both sides, and last, bring the ends of the pipes into the RHS saddle. Before you connect the pipes to the gasoline pump on the right side of the vehicle, make sure the fuel sensor assembly on the left side is situated appropriately. Prior to installing the lock ring, ensure that the spherical washer is snugly positioned around the plastic housings.(The ring should have a blue mark; line it up with the attachment point's blue mark.) Turn the ring (pushing down on the washer) with the tool until it snaps into position. Be sure to fill the tank halfway. Turn the key to the second position and keep it there until the gasoline pump stops; do this many times. Make sure there are no leaks or tears around the lock rings by running the engine for a while. When the water is clear, fill the tank to the top and check for leaks once more. Put the covers back on after that. (I reinforced the entry locations with more rubber to avoid wire chafing.) Things that go wrong: 1) You can't actually get the gasoline connectors to go to the wrong lugs, but the big one with the yellow button connector at the top of the fuel pump. One with a black rubber ring or gland goes to the one below it, and the one below that gets the one without. 2) If there is any gasoline leaking around the lock ring, remove it, turn the circular washer around by, say, 90 degrees, and then lock it again. 3) As the air is being pumped out of the tank, you may hear gurgling sounds coming from it. Here is my clumsy description of how the saddle tank works: The high-pressure fuel pump and fuel quantity control valve are located on the left side of the engine, and the fuel pump transfers gasoline from there to the engine through the big yellow button connector on the top. No problem. To make sure the petrol pump gets the most fuel possible, empty the left side saddle in preference of the right side. In order to do this, the gasoline is pushed to the left side fuel level sensor assembly via an additional pipe. From there, it flows via a nozzle submerged in fuel at the base of the assembly, which forces fuel into a pipe that recirculates to the right side saddle. It will not be noticeable until the gasoline level drops, at which point the leak will become apparent and air will be able to enter the fuel circulation pipes, therefore a leak in these latter two pipes is actually not a problem. In such case, air is sent to the right-hand tank and the nozzle stops working. In this scenario, there is petrol remaining in the left side saddle, according to your fuel gauge, but there is no fuel in the right side pump.

Fits all Mercedes-Benzes equipped with a saddle tank. If you've ever been in the same boat as me and noticed that your gasoline gauge reads just 1/4 full, then this is for you: The gasoline supply lines within the tank have likely grown brittle or broken, allowing air to enter the fuel pipes. It is only necessary to repair the "fuel level sensor" on the left hand side of the saddle tank, not the pump. This set includes all three gasoline pipes that are needed. Make it yourself is possible. Tool for removing gasoline tank lock rings, which has a rather long 1/2" bar:

apply a sunscreen lotion? It is a component of several lens polish kits.

Good day, I had the same issue for several months. Even after two fuel filter changes, the problem persisted. I believe I finally got things fixed out after a good high-revving highway run. I'm not claiming that the Italian tune-up fixed yours, but it was the deciding factor for me.

I made some enquires just in case, so, are you sitting down. 1st kia dealer £434 2nd kia dealer £524

Please accept this as my next cheque.

It's better than what I was expecting; someone on another thread mentioned £250 when they purchased an EV3 for fun.

Good day, Indeed, that is a title. A key slipped my fingers. Has anybody else done this and can you give me an approximate quote for a replacement? It seems like, similar to losing a phone, there's no way to track it down. Much obliged.

I will keep it in mind for the next time; I feel like it was probably just a false lock. Is that to say that I was successful in releasing the crank bolt upon startup? It is appreciated.

The dowel slid into the hole with a satisfying thunk, so I'm very sure it's in there now; I appreciate your response. I didn't feel any resistance or contact with anything, so I'm hoping no valves were hit.

Excuse me, As I work on the timing chain, I would appreciate any guidance. The cams are locked, so I removed everything—which I mistakenly believed was the crank—and left the car for a few days to wait for the kit to come. I was going to tighten the crank bolt today when the crank suddenly spun as I began the initial torque! I either failed to lock the crank properly or accidentally knocked it at some point, so the cams remained locked and never moved. I'm confused about my next move. Now that I've locked it correctly again and the pistons are all the same height, how can I make sure the time is right and I'm not spinning out of control? Thank you once more.

Sounds like a lead sparking out or an earth leak, which might cause a short. In the dead of night, inspect the engine leads for the presence of blue sparks earthing.

The MY26 facelift model is what I said.

Mine was operational on the same day I picked it up, so I know the MY26 makeover works.

I decided to proceed. I made the payment this morning. I will admit it was slightly nerve-racking pressing the confirm button on the transfer. Delivery has been scheduled for next week. I will update the thread regardless of the outcome so others can make informed decisions.

It's quite unlikely that I will ever consider purchasing it. Just like I mentioned before, cars end up on this island in the end, although I'm disappointed that it happened sooner rather than later. (There are some choice bangers floating around since we don't need a MOT or anything like that.) I should include in the DPF talk that the vehicle has not been driven more than 2.5 miles and has never been out of second gear since I took possession of it in August of last year. I attempted to resolve the dpf light by driving continuously up and down the new section of road for 45 minutes while maintaining high rpm in first gear, but it was unsuccessful. It has been really chilly here; for several weeks, the temperature has not risen over 6 degrees, and there were even lower periods before that. I'm going to start looking for a good scanner. Many thanks

The feedback is appreciated. Do you have any ideas as to what could be stopping it from starting? Since it isn't getting off to a hilly or easy start, it appears to be receiving instructions not to catch.

This is a great response. I wish I had followed this procedure when the car was still running after seeing this video a while ago. We also don't have the same high-tech plug-in unit that the person is using, so it's possible we couldn't have done it. However, I appreciate the suggestion and will investigate this more.

Hi there, I'm hoping that those of you with more expertise can match my situation with some recommendations after reading through a lot of the earlier postings about starting troubles, but there's so much conflicting information! Last year, I purchased the automobile and transported it to the island where we reside. Old 4x4s are dying a slow death on this relatively tough terrain. I figured it would last a while, had a MOT, and seemed to be in excellent shape, so I bought it. It was noticeable upon initial delivery that it started slowly but consistently. It seemed like the crank was all it took to get going, but even after it caught, it took forever for the engine to really kick in and get rpm high enough to drive. This problem persisted over time. It finally started a few days ago, but ever since then, it hasn't turned over. I even purchased a new battery, but it didn't help. Checked for fuel leaks and primed the pump. I attempted a hill bump start, but it was unsuccessful. No luck with the easy start method. Concerned that the car wouldn't start when I initially acquired it, my mechanic neighbour hooked it up (using the rudimentary phone app Ob11 connection) and the diagnostic trouble code came up: dpf error. I made an effort to travel this way back when, but the island roads were so narrow that I couldn't go faster than 30 miles per hour. Ever since, the dpf light has been left on. No errors appeared when my neighbour replugged it, but the engine and dpf lights were still on. It is his recommendation that you test it without the dpf at all. There is no way we can bring the car to a repair shop that offers better plug-in alternatives. As I've read in other threads, he speculated that the timing chain may have slipped. Feedback is much appreciated!

hello there

I am so grateful.

Hello there, I'm grateful. Based on my cursory examination, it appears... One possible cause of water gathering under the passenger seat is a broken or leaking air conditioning line. This is the standard first diagnostic for this common problem, and I don't know how to fix it. It's like when I go to the mechanic and ask for brake pads without checking, and he says I also need new discs, which doubles the cost. 2) The second issue is a leaking windscreen seal, which can be simply fixed according to a YouTube video that shows how to use fairy liquid and a watering can to locate the leak.Instead of going to a mechanic and having them change it—which would be expensive and risky—I can do this and find out how to fill it. thirdly, seeping out of the lamppost. I'm crossing my fingers that it's this because I can easily fill up my boot with water. My section necessitates additional research. Hopefully, I will be able to determine the source of the problem by testing these things over the next few days. In the meanwhile, I am crossing my fingers that the upcoming week or so doesn't see an excessive amount of rainfall. I will also make sure to check the fuses; I really hope a new system isn't necessary. For some reason, I'm transported back to the 1980s while I'm driving right now. There is complete silence, no on-demand heating, and nowhere to charge my phone. The Sat Nav was useless anyhow, so I don't really miss it. I am not a happy Nissa Noter right now. Brenda must get herself together or else. This is an extremely musty Nissan Note E11 diesel driver's way of saying thanks.