keithmerc220

Impressive automobile with commendable specifications—akin to a discreet E53, I presume.

There is no red button; nevertheless, my device has a black button.

I believe I can extract the shaft and then assess for any play inside the transmission connection. The seal is also leaking, resulting in fluid accumulation, which requires further inspection. It occurs in every gear, hence...

The vehicle has a manual gearbox, the wheel bearing exhibits no discernible looseness, and I do not detect any noise while it is spun. The noise is only audible while the vehicle is in gear and operating at a greater speed. The boots are satisfactory; however, there is a little lateral movement, which I believe is typical. I am unable to perceive any sound at low speeds.

There is an absence of clicking or banging throughout the turning process. The vibration intensifies with each session as speed rises; nevertheless, it stabilizes at around 85 miles per hour. At the age of 60, it is the most unfavorable. The issue is located on the driver's side, since halting the rotation of that wheel eliminates the vibration in the steering wheel. The sound seems to originate from the transmission; but, due to an exhaust leak, it is rather difficult to discern. I believe it is located around the area where the shaft enters. The wheel hub seems secure, and when I rotate the tires individually, I do not hear any clicking. However, a considerable speed is required to initiate the clicking sound, so I may attach a drill to the axle nut once my return home.

In recent days, I have begun to hear a significant noise emanating from what I now identify as the transmitter. It seems to be the axle shaft output region. What is involved in the process of exchanging that? Should the side be removed when the shaft is extracted, or is it necessary to separate the case?

Obtain the pinout for the ECU and examine the power distribution. If they are definitively losing power, that is what I would examine.

Two transfer points. One of them provided the front of the automobile. The remaining materials include the fuse board. Is there an absence of electricity at the leap point? It should be continuously operational. Access the passenger footwell and detach the trim under the dashboard to locate the substantial red power supply line leading to the fuse board.

The glovebox is secured by many T20 Torx screws; moreover, it is necessary to detach the trim around the cup holders and remove the cup holders themselves. Prior to proceeding, verify the transfer points where the battery voltage exits the boot; there should be two: one directs to the jump point under the bonnet, while the other connects to the fuse board. There have been problems with the power supply at the fuse board; BMW issued a recall on this matter some years ago.

I would get a new one, since the pre-owned options are never inexpensive and difficult to locate.

Your vehicle is equipped with a firmer suspension and low-profile tires mounted on 19-inch wheels. Both contribute to the poor ride quality, among other factors.

Undoubtedly, that is the purpose of your insurance.

rather prevalent on the N engines. after a 100k every mile is a gift, personally i avoid them and would never buy a used example out of warranty. The quotation appears accurate; but, after the engine is removed, there is a possibility that other difficulties could be discovered and more components will be required. Similar to how lighter crankshafts may deform,

Understood - I was unaware that it would be included in the vehicle's service history (it is hardly a 'service' item, after all!), and I am astonished that Mercedes would be inclined to disclose a gearbox failure so soon to prospective buyers. I would not have anticipated that occurring in the UK, however I cannot be certain since I have never purchased a new vehicle.

How might a buyer of your automobile ascertain that the gearbox has been replaced?

These are specialised vehicles with certain idiosyncrasies that an expert will recognise and scrutinise. While it is possible to encounter an AA or RAC technician with a particular interest in Benz vehicles and the requisite knowledge, such an occurrence is unlikely. If it were a Fiesta or a Focus, you would be satisfactory; nevertheless, with a C63, I would recommend hiring an expert for inspection or taking a risk.

With proper maintenance, oil consumption may be negligible; otherwise, these engines tend to use oil excessively. All other components, such as the CCV, coolant, Vanos, and oil pan gasket, are not particularly problematic to replace.

I own the same issue on the back of my Mazda. The rings no longer contact the rotor surface. I purchased new rotors, EBC green pads, and Corksport stainless steel brake lines. I subsequently coated all the rotors with high-temperature paint and will install them once the pads are available in stock. This should prevent the recurrence of the rusting problem. The brakes exhibit considerable weakness on the highway when the vehicle is occupied by several passengers. This is the reason I chose to update the pads and lines for assistance.

those Chinese repair pcv rubbish dont work very well spring rate is wrong on them, trouble with these engines is carbon build up on exhaust valves over time will cause misfires, just better off do the job right in first place refresh it , after they go from using oil to using no oil for extra cost of doing it will save that in cost of oil and cats over year or two, this comes from someone who has for past 10 years always had one in pieces due to the oil burning and chain issues etc, the cheap rocker covers are crap as well on ebay , proved this a few times with cars i have put on dyno that only thing we changed was fitted a good rocker cover , ie genuine or febi or fai where had cooper s cars barely hit 200bhp after made 245bhp due to wrong spring rate on pcv system and bleeding unmetered air in to inlet ,, this also hurts them causes lean running lean will make rings go brittle and snap had a many over the years do this,, all the above is genuine seen this time and time again with the endless mistakes some make when buying parts that are not fit for purpose,

I had an individual who previously installed a catch can before I performed a refresh on it. Prior to the refresh, the can accumulated a significant amount of debris; however, after the refresh, he reported little accumulation due to the substantial reduction in crankcase breathing achieved by installing superior piston rings. The catch can only collects debris without addressing the underlying issue.

All indicators suggest a requirement for a refresh of the rings, stem seals, and timing chain kit, which is a typical occurrence.

Are you aware that they were engaged in work? Replace a functioning component from your vehicle and see the results.

The sensors may be defective. Reach out to the source from whence you obtained it and inform them that the sensors are malfunctioning.

Does this use the sensors from the previous bumper, or are these sensors associated with the newly installed bumper?

I do not see how a fracture in the block or cylinder head between the lubrication and coolant channels would present differently from a cylinder head failure occurring across the same channels. A cylinder head may fail in one or both of those features while maintaining full integrity concerning combustion pressure. I remember being informed that "aged coolant deteriorates into an oily substance," which was reportedly rectified by just replacing the coolant. If I recall correctly, there was also mention of a cooling system sealant component that had been previously used, and this may have contributed to the condition noted. The information is hearsay; thus, I cannot confirm it in any anyway. Best of luck; should you uncover the details, please inform us.