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Also, I'm starting to lean toward the "short trips" side, so I appreciate your perspective. They put it on their charging system yesterday afternoon, so we should receive the findings sometime this morning. There is a lot of helpful information that owners find on our site, so I appreciate you taking the time to weigh in. As far as I am aware, the battery compartment has the tiniest cargo area of any place I have ever seen. Just to follow up — Is the 'battery tender' or trickle charge mechanism something you're familiar with? If so, which model/brand do you think is best? I intend to start checking the voltage at regular intervals from now on. However, I really enjoy driving this vehicle and would like to ensure its dependability to the best of my abilities.

Just wanted to give you a heads up regarding the 12V battery not getting charged enough from just using EV mode for short trips in the winter. The vendor connected it to their charger and battery testing apparatus. Instead of replacing it, they fixed it under warranty and didn't charge me a dime. The dealer's mechanic suggested using a battery tender to charge the 12-volt battery if you plan on continuing to drive short distances (<20 miles) on electric mode only. The other models are around 1.5 amps, but I'm inclined to go with a 'Battery Tender' 4 amp type. It would make me very delighted to hear your comments on that. Note: the tow truck connected its 10-foot charging cables to the 12-volt battery's positive terminal and the frame's ground terminal after I connected five feet of my own cables to the battery. It was immediately jump-started, and I backed it out of a cramped garage and drove it to the dealership. In Michigan's 0-20F winters, the lessons learned from using the EV mode are invaluable, but I still adore the car.

Twice this winter in Michigan, my CX70 PHEV's engine's 12-volt battery had a "total" loss of power. This typically occurs after a few short excursions under 19 miles, followed by recharging the PHEV battery to fill it up. Basically, it's a time when the petrol engine isn't used for more than a few miles at a time so the alternator can charge the 12-volt battery. Both instances occurred in the morning following an overnight charge of the PHEV. The next day, upon pressing the start button, I discovered that neither the red security light nor any of the instrument cluster lights were illuminated. Additionally, when left unlocked, the door locks do not make a sound. Sitting quietly while attempting to press a start button that is not illuminated. Approximately 2.77 volts was the reading I got the second time I lifted the hood to check the battery voltage. In all likelihood, it is a weak battery that has trouble charging. While the first attempt at connecting a battery charger brought the voltage closer to 8 volts, the second time around I heard a lot of noise coming from the engine area and had to turn off the device. They jumped me using Mazda Roadside Assistance. The vehicle was able to be restarted by connecting to their tow truck and performing a classic parallel jump. Got it going and dropped it off at the local M-dealer for analysis today. Findings are still being finalised. Has anyone encountered a situation like this before?

Prior to removing injectors, I would verify correction values and do a leak off test. On the n47 engine, the only problems I've ever encountered were faulty injectors and related codes. However, it doesn't rule out the possibility that your injector is questionable. Fuel pressure in real-time data is something else I'd look into.

So, 335 horsepower isn't enough for you? You can see that it's just a regular generic map, but it's actually a remap of the ecu, not a plug-and-play tune. The competent individual has 25 years of experience as a BMW mechanic and works as a contractor, if you will. I presume he's gone out on his own since he comes to your place to install. The problem I'm having is that the price for an Australian "European" map starts at $2500 and goes up from there. I think it's mostly due to the fact that they can charge that much and the owners of Porsche, Audi, BMW, and Mercedes will gladly pay. However, I'm not a typical European owner, and if the cars are worth 15,000, it's a bit. Although there is no shortage of 4x4 diesel tune shops, I am sceptical that they can properly map a vehicle from Europe. More often than not, they seem to advocate lifting, locking, and launching it while simultaneously pounding your chest or some other object. Further investigation led me to believe that the ZF6HP28, which is capable of 700Nm, is included in LCI series 3. However, it is solely based on Google AI, which is somewhat contradictory because it suggests using a metal pan, but my LCI comes with a plastic pan, so we're back to 600Nm. Consider going with the eco-friendly option as a precaution. The additional power is mainly for show; turning off the EGR is my primary concern.

Now, I'd be open to listening to some music on the N57D30A 330d. The standard 240HP may be increased to 297HP with an environmental tune, and there is a Stage 1 that produces 335HP. Unsurprisingly, the 335HP is a desire of the inner hoon who exaggerated their abilities. The vehicle is equipped with a ZF GA6HP26Z automatic gearbox, as reported by RealOem.com. Which according to ISTA has a torque converter good for up to 600Nm. Celtic Tune claims that 520Nm is the typical factory tune, which is a lot of fat. Choosing a "eco" tune brings the torque up to 593Nm, which is near full capacity but still below, and it might be the safer, more prudent option. The 644Nm produced by a Stage 1 tune suggests that, according ISTA, my box would benefit from a ZF GA6HP26Z TU torque converter, which is often used in more powerful 5, 6, and 7 Series models and is capable of 650NM. I assume it's just a simple change, even if it's a big job. Thus, I have a query for individuals who have Stage 1 tunes installed on conventional boxes, maybe with a single turbo motor. Is it significant? Does it make a difference if the gearbox is more reliable or performs worse? When obtaining a tune, I bet many people don't even think about how much torque the converter can handle.

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I am confidently going to install 10 and 15mm on my vehicle. Be sure that they are centric, meaning that there is room on the hub for the wheel to attach to the centre ring. Don't stress about 2mm; no one else will notice or know. Try out several models and adjust the studs, pitch, rim size, offset, and jj to your liking. Specifications for wheels and tyre sizes for all BMW models By comparing the old and new, as well as their positions on the rim and hub, this one is fantastic. Tyre and Alloy Wheel Fitment Estimator. Will They Fit? Offset, Tyre Stretch, and Speedo Error This one is for testing the compatibility of your geometry with the new wheel.

I have 75,000 miles on the same car, and the timing belt hasn't needed to be replaced yet. Kia probably advises inspecting the vehicle at 80,000 and replacing it at 160.000, but I won't wait that long.Additionally, I've attached the owner's manual for our 1.6 Mild Hybrid model.

Hey, are you sure you don't want to correct that? A 1.6 mild hybrid with a BELT was introduced in 2019 and 2020.If it has a chain, describe the plastic cover on the timing and driver sides of the engine in the picture.

There are undoubtedly varying quality grades of aftermarket DPFs. I was fortunate to successfully clean the original OE component, but I suspect it was never genuinely obstructed. The van remains idle for extended periods and is mostly utilised for long journeys, such as vacations; it is not employed for short trips. The vehicle has undergone several MoT tests with the remap, and emissions have consistently not posed an issue. I must admit that I have not verified the permissible emissions value for my Viano. I do not observe any excessive smoke. It is hardly noticeable while driving, and no one has commented on it while following. I have never encountered a problem with Superchips. In the 320D and 330D models, the chip modified the traction control settings, allowing the vehicle to maintain full power instead of abruptly cutting it when wheel slip was detected; it utilised the ABS to brake the slipping wheel instead. I assert that this is the remap we possessed. I have no grievances.

Consumption was subpar this morning, as it presented an opportunity to explore a long-forgotten realm. The fuel efficiency was 20 mpg, and I saw that the suspension is inadequate with increased engine power. We opted for a Superchips chip remap conversion, having previously achieved significant success with it on a 330D and 320D. Our Viano was the 163 Bhp variant, and the Superchips remap is expected to elevate it to just over 200 Bhp. The conversion accelerates the rise of the rpm counter. and appears to possess ample torque. It is not as powerful as the 330D, which was a 200 to 250bhp enhancement and did not have the same weight as the van. This time, it involved a man in a van modification, whereas previously we utilised the Bluefin self-programming module. It will operate effectively with the parking brake applied. I acknowledge your observations regarding an aftermarket DPF; it serves as a valuable caution, as I have recently been contemplating the necessity of a new DPF and have been intrigued by the low cost of the aftermarket options.

I recognise that I could have resolved the issue more expediently by consulting the dealer or an independent mechanic; but, I sought to circumvent the expense and prefer to troubleshoot myself. It has been excruciating. Best regards

It appears that a static regeneration is necessary, correct? This will reset the simulated figure. The test was repeatedly halted after around one minute owing to a "communications failure." Understood. As usual, I delayed until I could gather additional information. However, this week, after some random searching, I encountered a reference indicating that the van now possesses a new DPF. I have never performed that task previously since it lacks a new DPF; I merely cleaned it. However, I conducted further investigation and subsequently followed the protocol to inform it about the new DPF installation. I now obtain the figures below; the DPF light is extinguished. It has exited limp mode; it feels as though I have acquired a new van. It accelerates to 4,000 RPM and possesses substantial power. I can finally appreciate the superchips remap that was performed shortly after my purchase. All for merely a straightforward "Inform me that I possess a new or cleaned DPF."

Greetings, I wish to document my observations regarding a longstanding issue with the DPF on our Viano, in the hope that it may assist others. Our Viano encountered a DPF problem almost two years ago. Possibly more; it became limp and was limited to 3,000. The scanner indicated a malfunction with the O2 sensor and that the DPF was 200% saturated. I replaced the sensor and removed the DPF for cleaning. Reconfigured everything. and rectified the errors. However, I was unable to extract it from Limp. I examined every facet of the DPF system to ascertain if I overlooked anything, earnestly attempting (and likely failing) to refrain from indiscriminately replacing components. The scanner indicated that the boost sensor between the two turbos was absent. However, my engine, being the van model, is equipped with only one turbocharger. The back pressure sensor may be defective. I replaced the back pressure sensor without success; it subsequently became apparent that the Carsoft scanner was providing inaccurate information. I upgraded to a Mercedes Xentry laptop; subsequently, the prices decreased, and I sold the Carsoft. The differential pressure sensor was replaced in the interim. The MERC program provided real-time data from the DPF. This indicated to me that the DPF was unobstructed, with the exception of the simulation pressure.

In the past, when I sold Audi and Volkswagen vehicles, the illumination of the oil light indicated a low oil level. If the light flashed, accompanied by a buzzer in certain models, it signified a loss of oil pressure. It is unfortunate that many customers were unaware of this, since they arrived to our service centre with the flashing light on.

The oil level is crucial to monitor; by the time the low-pressure warning light activates, damage may occur within seconds. Nonetheless, my 100,000-mile OM 642 has not consumed any oil throughout the year I have owned it; yet, it is equipped with a dipstick for monitoring levels.

The third component was the automatic gearbox cooler, which was an authentic BMW part, but the other two were not original equipment (OE).

Greetings to all. I am experiencing an issue with my 530d. Fails to reach operational temperature. Struggles to exceed 60 degrees. I recognise that this is a prevalent issue, having reviewed numerous forums. I have replaced all three thermostats, yet there has been no change. Currently, the fuel efficiency is poor; nonetheless, the vehicle operates well otherwise. Can somebody assist me in ceasing to scratch my head? The only other possibility I considered is a faulty sensor; however, the vehicle does not emit excessively hot air even at the maximum level, so I am very certain it is not the issue. I sincerely hope someone can provide clarification. I anticipate a response with great eagerness. Thank you in advance.

The 280E spanned two distinct generations. The W114 employed Bosch D Jetronic, whereas the W123 utilised Bosch K Jetronic. If your vehicle is equipped with D-Jet technology, seek an individual knowledgeable in this system; they may be specialists in Volkswagen or Volvo, as it was utilised in those brands. Any German automotive professional knowledgeable about 1980s vehicles, particularly those specialising in the Ford Capri (2.8i) or XR4i, will be familiar with this technology. If it is an E280, it will be from 1993 or later and will utilise Bosch Motronic fuel injection.