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The 280E spanned two distinct generations. The W114 employed Bosch D Jetronic, whereas the W123 utilised Bosch K Jetronic. If your vehicle is equipped with D-Jet technology, seek an individual knowledgeable in this system; they may be specialists in Volkswagen or Volvo, as it was utilised in those brands. Any German automotive professional knowledgeable about 1980s vehicles, particularly those specialising in the Ford Capri (2.8i) or XR4i, will be familiar with this technology. If it is an E280, it will be from 1993 or later and will utilise Bosch Motronic fuel injection.

I do not perceive a necessity for any extraordinary actions about the vehicle from that year, to be honest. I possessed a W212 of the same model year, and it was a direct exchange.

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Thank you, everyone. I replaced the water pump; but, it was a novice mistake not to replace the thermostat simultaneously. That is my oversight. I will modify it over the weekend. Thank you once more for your prompt assistance; it is greatly appreciated

Greetings everyone, The temperature gauge of the x5 e53 M54 3.0i does not exceed the first quarter mark; however, when stationary at idle, it rises to the halfway point. While driving, it descends back to the first quarter or around the cold blue mark, and the vehicle emits lukewarm air, however it operates OK. Any assistance or guidance would be much valued. Thank you, everyone.

I possess a large, antiquated Crypton 'Chargemaster' charger, originating from my late father's workshop. It is approximately the dimensions of a small filing cabinet and can provide around 400A, capable of starting a vehicle with a fully depleted battery, irrespective of its duration of inactivity. It is presently concealed within my storage container. Although it can provide a beneficial charge to a depleted battery in approximately 20 minutes, this practice is detrimental to the battery's longevity. However, it can facilitate your immediate needs in an emergency, provided you monitor the current input and reduce it slightly. If street parking necessitates the absence of a maintenance charger, an alternative is a solar panel charger, which can be positioned on the dashboard or parcel shelf. Higher-quality models can deliver a beneficial trickle charge sufficient to counteract the drain from car alarms and maintain battery levels. It is important to note that inferior models may be ineffective; however, investing in a moderately superior option could prove advantageous. These chargers must be connected to a continuously live point within the vehicle to supply power while the car is locked and inactive, typically accessible via a permanently live fuse in the fuse box.

If the car is little utilised, this may be the problem—insufficient usage to achieve a complete charge. Do you possess off-road parking, either in a driveway or garage, with access to mains power? In that case, acquiring a maintenance charger and consistently connecting the vehicle to it when not in use would likely be the solution. The conventional recommendation is to acquire a CTEK charger; however, more economical options exist from ALDI or LIDL. Their 'Ultimate Speed' chargers also feature maintenance and cold weather modes, effectively maintaining battery charge levels. They will not charge a fully depleted battery; for that purpose, I still possess an ancient Gunson 'dumb' charger that can revive a dead battery over the course of a day, after which I switch to the maintenance charger. I possess two inexpensive chargers from Aldi/Lidl to maintain two spare batteries in a charged state. The grey item cost approximately £10 around five years ago, while I believe I spent £12.95 for the other one a few weeks prior. The two batteries I am maintaining on charge originated from distinct vehicles; one was extracted from my W140 upon its disposal approximately four years ago, while the other was removed from my SL when I purchased a new battery for it last month. I was unaware of the age or history of that battery, despite its satisfactory performance in starting the car. I prefer not to enter winter with an uncertain battery. Both batteries can jump-start other vehicles or power tiny 12V devices temporarily.

I would assert that the power supply issue to those modules is attributable to a module or wire malfunction. Develop a test plan and systematically execute the prescribed checks. Examining the circuit diagrams may reveal a common connection among the different modules. I assume the JBE is culpable. Owned a 5 Series around a year ago with a defective JBE that failed, resulting in the loss of one output, causing other components to remain underpowered upon ignition.

Provide the fault code list and an image of the control unit hierarchy.

The E81 116d was equipped with the 2.0d N47D20 engine, whereas the 1.6 N47D16 was used in subsequent F series cars. The initial step I would undertake is to remove the cam sensor and manually rotate the engine to verify if the camshafts are moving, so eliminating the possibility of a broken chain, provided there are no fault codes present.

Cardiff, South Wales

I observed that with my Peugeot. Regarding a pleasurable vehicle to cherish for 8-9 months before I depart for university, would you endorse any of these options? I acknowledge that the clutch mechanism and timing chain are susceptible to failure; nevertheless, after a comprehensive inspection of the vehicle over the past 8-9 months, do you believe I will be fine? If not, could you direct me to any other enjoyable vehicles? Thank you!

Greetings! I am new here and seeking to replace my Peugeot 208 wetbelt with a five-door vehicle. I admire the appearance of the E90 3 Series; but, after consulting my insurance provider, I discovered that any model above the 320i/320d exceeds my financial capacity. I examined Facebook Marketplace, given my limited budget of £2,200. I discovered a BMW 318i with 70,000 miles, as well as a 318d and 320d, both exceeding 150,000 miles. I am enquiring which of the four alternatives (318i, 318d, 320i, 320d) would be optimal. I have heard that the N47 engine is a financial liability; but, because I require a vehicle for less than a year, it should not be excessively problematic. I have not extensively researched the N43, but I have heard that it is somehow inferior to the N47. I am uncertain. I hope the timing chain does not lead to significant problems. What is the anticipated monthly maintenance cost? I am pleased to perform the majority of tasks independently, such as oil changes, brake maintenance, lighting repairs, and body panel replacements. However, without a garage prevents me from undertaking more time-consuming tasks without interference from the UK weather. I am seeking instruction; any assistance would be welcomed. 😁

Could this possibly elucidate the absence of suction on my oil cap? It is said online that white smoke will emanate from the oil fill hole with the engine running if the PCV is defective; however, I am not observing any smoke.

Thank you for your excellent response, my friend.

This response is excellent. Does this appear to be a turbo seal or PCV issue? I am uncertain if there is an excessive amount of oil, but it feels excessive to me.

Greetings I require assistance in determining the next steps to take, if someone could provide advise on this matter. The car's low oil pressure issue has been resolved, since it contained only 1.5 litres of oil. New oil and a filter have rectified the problem. The DPF readings on live data where at 25 so thats getting blocked up along with EGR codes in the system so the customer wants the DPF pulled out, on approach to pulling the DPF off, I have observed gobs of oil from the turbo. There is no play in the turbine; the car was boosting adequately until low-pressure error codes appeared. The turbo intake side is not oily, which leads me to question whether the issue is with the turbo oil seals or the PCV system. With the engine running and the oil cap removed, I am not observing any suction from the oil fill opening, which suggests that the issue may be related to the PCV system. Aim to prevent haphazardly discarding components. Thank you.

Thank you both. I am considering whether to invest in Koni Active Special shocks initially or to get tyres, as I previously had them on my old Saab, and they significantly improved performance on uneven surfaces while maintaining commendable handling. I am thoroughly enjoying the 435i; however, I will definitely replace the tires, which appear to be new, so I am attempting to be prudent on the timing of the replacement.

Before investing over £800 in Pilot Sports to replace my Pirelli P7 Run Flats, I would like to enquire whether anyone has undertaken this transition to enhance ride quality. I possess a 4 Series equipped with M Sport suspension, and the ride is somewhat harsh in urban settings. Enquiring whether substituting run-flat tires with conventional ones may diminish the impact experienced when traversing bumps. I acknowledge it remains a sports suspension; however, if I can mitigate the harshness of bumps and ruts, it will justify the expenditure! I am aware of numerous debates regarding tyres, but I specifically seek information about these particular tyres. Thank you.

I will attempt it, thank you. 👍

I was astonished by the clay bar, since I had previously shampooed it, however pollutants were still removed despite its very clean appearance. 😳

Indeed, I also used a McGuire's 3-inch microfiber applicator.

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