ianwh4

I have 75,000 miles on the same car, and the timing belt hasn't needed to be replaced yet. Kia probably advises inspecting the vehicle at 80,000 and replacing it at 160.000, but I won't wait that long.Additionally, I've attached the owner's manual for our 1.6 Mild Hybrid model.

Hey, are you sure you don't want to correct that? A 1.6 mild hybrid with a BELT was introduced in 2019 and 2020.If it has a chain, describe the plastic cover on the timing and driver sides of the engine in the picture.

There are undoubtedly varying quality grades of aftermarket DPFs. I was fortunate to successfully clean the original OE component, but I suspect it was never genuinely obstructed. The van remains idle for extended periods and is mostly utilised for long journeys, such as vacations; it is not employed for short trips. The vehicle has undergone several MoT tests with the remap, and emissions have consistently not posed an issue. I must admit that I have not verified the permissible emissions value for my Viano. I do not observe any excessive smoke. It is hardly noticeable while driving, and no one has commented on it while following. I have never encountered a problem with Superchips. In the 320D and 330D models, the chip modified the traction control settings, allowing the vehicle to maintain full power instead of abruptly cutting it when wheel slip was detected; it utilised the ABS to brake the slipping wheel instead. I assert that this is the remap we possessed. I have no grievances.

Consumption was subpar this morning, as it presented an opportunity to explore a long-forgotten realm. The fuel efficiency was 20 mpg, and I saw that the suspension is inadequate with increased engine power. We opted for a Superchips chip remap conversion, having previously achieved significant success with it on a 330D and 320D. Our Viano was the 163 Bhp variant, and the Superchips remap is expected to elevate it to just over 200 Bhp. The conversion accelerates the rise of the rpm counter. and appears to possess ample torque. It is not as powerful as the 330D, which was a 200 to 250bhp enhancement and did not have the same weight as the van. This time, it involved a man in a van modification, whereas previously we utilised the Bluefin self-programming module. It will operate effectively with the parking brake applied. I acknowledge your observations regarding an aftermarket DPF; it serves as a valuable caution, as I have recently been contemplating the necessity of a new DPF and have been intrigued by the low cost of the aftermarket options.

I recognise that I could have resolved the issue more expediently by consulting the dealer or an independent mechanic; but, I sought to circumvent the expense and prefer to troubleshoot myself. It has been excruciating. Best regards

It appears that a static regeneration is necessary, correct? This will reset the simulated figure. The test was repeatedly halted after around one minute owing to a "communications failure." Understood. As usual, I delayed until I could gather additional information. However, this week, after some random searching, I encountered a reference indicating that the van now possesses a new DPF. I have never performed that task previously since it lacks a new DPF; I merely cleaned it. However, I conducted further investigation and subsequently followed the protocol to inform it about the new DPF installation. I now obtain the figures below; the DPF light is extinguished. It has exited limp mode; it feels as though I have acquired a new van. It accelerates to 4,000 RPM and possesses substantial power. I can finally appreciate the superchips remap that was performed shortly after my purchase. All for merely a straightforward "Inform me that I possess a new or cleaned DPF."

Greetings, I wish to document my observations regarding a longstanding issue with the DPF on our Viano, in the hope that it may assist others. Our Viano encountered a DPF problem almost two years ago. Possibly more; it became limp and was limited to 3,000. The scanner indicated a malfunction with the O2 sensor and that the DPF was 200% saturated. I replaced the sensor and removed the DPF for cleaning. Reconfigured everything. and rectified the errors. However, I was unable to extract it from Limp. I examined every facet of the DPF system to ascertain if I overlooked anything, earnestly attempting (and likely failing) to refrain from indiscriminately replacing components. The scanner indicated that the boost sensor between the two turbos was absent. However, my engine, being the van model, is equipped with only one turbocharger. The back pressure sensor may be defective. I replaced the back pressure sensor without success; it subsequently became apparent that the Carsoft scanner was providing inaccurate information. I upgraded to a Mercedes Xentry laptop; subsequently, the prices decreased, and I sold the Carsoft. The differential pressure sensor was replaced in the interim. The MERC program provided real-time data from the DPF. This indicated to me that the DPF was unobstructed, with the exception of the simulation pressure.

In the past, when I sold Audi and Volkswagen vehicles, the illumination of the oil light indicated a low oil level. If the light flashed, accompanied by a buzzer in certain models, it signified a loss of oil pressure. It is unfortunate that many customers were unaware of this, since they arrived to our service centre with the flashing light on.

The oil level is crucial to monitor; by the time the low-pressure warning light activates, damage may occur within seconds. Nonetheless, my 100,000-mile OM 642 has not consumed any oil throughout the year I have owned it; yet, it is equipped with a dipstick for monitoring levels.

The third component was the automatic gearbox cooler, which was an authentic BMW part, but the other two were not original equipment (OE).

Greetings to all. I am experiencing an issue with my 530d. Fails to reach operational temperature. Struggles to exceed 60 degrees. I recognise that this is a prevalent issue, having reviewed numerous forums. I have replaced all three thermostats, yet there has been no change. Currently, the fuel efficiency is poor; nonetheless, the vehicle operates well otherwise. Can somebody assist me in ceasing to scratch my head? The only other possibility I considered is a faulty sensor; however, the vehicle does not emit excessively hot air even at the maximum level, so I am very certain it is not the issue. I sincerely hope someone can provide clarification. I anticipate a response with great eagerness. Thank you in advance.

The 280E spanned two distinct generations. The W114 employed Bosch D Jetronic, whereas the W123 utilised Bosch K Jetronic. If your vehicle is equipped with D-Jet technology, seek an individual knowledgeable in this system; they may be specialists in Volkswagen or Volvo, as it was utilised in those brands. Any German automotive professional knowledgeable about 1980s vehicles, particularly those specialising in the Ford Capri (2.8i) or XR4i, will be familiar with this technology. If it is an E280, it will be from 1993 or later and will utilise Bosch Motronic fuel injection.

I do not perceive a necessity for any extraordinary actions about the vehicle from that year, to be honest. I possessed a W212 of the same model year, and it was a direct exchange.

🙃

Thank you, everyone. I replaced the water pump; but, it was a novice mistake not to replace the thermostat simultaneously. That is my oversight. I will modify it over the weekend. Thank you once more for your prompt assistance; it is greatly appreciated

Greetings everyone, The temperature gauge of the x5 e53 M54 3.0i does not exceed the first quarter mark; however, when stationary at idle, it rises to the halfway point. While driving, it descends back to the first quarter or around the cold blue mark, and the vehicle emits lukewarm air, however it operates OK. Any assistance or guidance would be much valued. Thank you, everyone.

I possess a large, antiquated Crypton 'Chargemaster' charger, originating from my late father's workshop. It is approximately the dimensions of a small filing cabinet and can provide around 400A, capable of starting a vehicle with a fully depleted battery, irrespective of its duration of inactivity. It is presently concealed within my storage container. Although it can provide a beneficial charge to a depleted battery in approximately 20 minutes, this practice is detrimental to the battery's longevity. However, it can facilitate your immediate needs in an emergency, provided you monitor the current input and reduce it slightly. If street parking necessitates the absence of a maintenance charger, an alternative is a solar panel charger, which can be positioned on the dashboard or parcel shelf. Higher-quality models can deliver a beneficial trickle charge sufficient to counteract the drain from car alarms and maintain battery levels. It is important to note that inferior models may be ineffective; however, investing in a moderately superior option could prove advantageous. These chargers must be connected to a continuously live point within the vehicle to supply power while the car is locked and inactive, typically accessible via a permanently live fuse in the fuse box.

If the car is little utilised, this may be the problem—insufficient usage to achieve a complete charge. Do you possess off-road parking, either in a driveway or garage, with access to mains power? In that case, acquiring a maintenance charger and consistently connecting the vehicle to it when not in use would likely be the solution. The conventional recommendation is to acquire a CTEK charger; however, more economical options exist from ALDI or LIDL. Their 'Ultimate Speed' chargers also feature maintenance and cold weather modes, effectively maintaining battery charge levels. They will not charge a fully depleted battery; for that purpose, I still possess an ancient Gunson 'dumb' charger that can revive a dead battery over the course of a day, after which I switch to the maintenance charger. I possess two inexpensive chargers from Aldi/Lidl to maintain two spare batteries in a charged state. The grey item cost approximately £10 around five years ago, while I believe I spent £12.95 for the other one a few weeks prior. The two batteries I am maintaining on charge originated from distinct vehicles; one was extracted from my W140 upon its disposal approximately four years ago, while the other was removed from my SL when I purchased a new battery for it last month. I was unaware of the age or history of that battery, despite its satisfactory performance in starting the car. I prefer not to enter winter with an uncertain battery. Both batteries can jump-start other vehicles or power tiny 12V devices temporarily.

I would assert that the power supply issue to those modules is attributable to a module or wire malfunction. Develop a test plan and systematically execute the prescribed checks. Examining the circuit diagrams may reveal a common connection among the different modules. I assume the JBE is culpable. Owned a 5 Series around a year ago with a defective JBE that failed, resulting in the loss of one output, causing other components to remain underpowered upon ignition.

Provide the fault code list and an image of the control unit hierarchy.

The E81 116d was equipped with the 2.0d N47D20 engine, whereas the 1.6 N47D16 was used in subsequent F series cars. The initial step I would undertake is to remove the cam sensor and manually rotate the engine to verify if the camshafts are moving, so eliminating the possibility of a broken chain, provided there are no fault codes present.