cumblechook22

Kits, tools, and replacement components for 8HP45 and 8HP90 transmissions. Go4trans: Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Globally Dipstick 8HP90 Alternatively, you may use the fill-plug level while the engine is at the proper operating temperature (oil expands when heated): How to Check ZF 8HP Transmission Fluid Without a Dipstick

There may be a fill pipe in the engine compartment with a tight-fitting lid, but you'll still need to invest in a service dipstick.

Carbon and other friction particles from the friction bands would leak out into the oil, polluting it, and therefore ZF, in a technical notice, suggested at least one adjustment when the issue was discovered. The oil in the torque converter must be changed at least twice to guarantee a proper renewal percentage since it is not always possible to drain it directly (no drain plug). Maybe they figured out the fundamental issue and fixed it in newer gearboxes. Changing the oil and filter won't hurt anything, except maybe your money, as long as you use the right stuff.

Even though the auto 'box is "filled for life," you should check the fluid and filter regularly.

In most cases, automatics, even those with 5 gears, are preferable than manuals. By having seven and eight gears, automatic transmissions are better suited to vehicles with less powerful engines. Due to the ample engine torque of their day, early US "muscle cars" could get by with just two gears.

If you sell your ST, you'll be sorry (friend).

Was the right kind of gas used?

Even after someone accidentally bumped into me, I was unable to erase the collision alarm since it had been reset after I had to have the sensors reset because of a pigeon hit.

Another order for Ocean Blue v2 with ADAP, with a delivery time of 8 to 12 weeks.

My friend the builder recently finished putting on one of his own flat roofs. He used that rubber (he couldn't remember the precise name), but he said it works well... if applied properly. He offered me some extra to use in the rabbit hutch, and it seems really sturdy.

Bent and rusty where it's been used a lot.It might be possible to fix, but there could be more rust.Replacing seems to be the choiceBent and rusty where it's been used a lot.It might be possible to fix, but there could be more rust.Replacing seems to be the choice

The subframes are composed of rather substantial materials, so it takes a long for rust to penetrate them. Additionally, the fact that it is an 80s model rather than an older 60s or 70s model may be advantageous. It obviously depends on how it lived its existence, but you may certainly follow your advice and bash everything with a hammer to see if you can uncover any alarming areas. The fronts, which are clearly covered in oil throughout the most of their lives, do seem to suffer more than the backs.

I received a quotation for £120 to do the front and back? Personally, I believe it is worthwhile. Powder coating is normally done by the same folks, so I'm not going to bother, but it never hurts to inquire how much it costs and see if it works for you. £75 for blasting AND coating is an absolute value. That's something I'd absolutely agree to.

It will take forever to wire brush it, and it will be difficult to reach all of the crevices, so if you can afford it, you should look for someone local who can sandblast it for you. This will restore the metal to its original state. Is the subframe assumed to be from the initial year of production?

Yes, "w" does stand for "wide" 😄 SE stands for Seven Styleee. i = self-contained (both narrow and broad body versions), but not too many narrow ones. w = wide

Use real-time chat