cumblechook22

Two disclaimers: professional cab drivers from all over the globe can attest that covering 300,000 miles in an E is simple and inexpensive. Furthermore, Madame Cholet has a preference for more compact vehicles, such as the C class, because she rarely sees passengers in the rear.

It's the right cable; I've exhausted all other options. I have attempted unpairing the cable, turning off VPN on my phone, and nothing has helped me connect using the Apple cable.

Thanks in advance for any assistance you can provide; I'm utilising a data cable to connect my 2020 150d to the system, but when I do, the info screen does not display CarPlay.

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To remove restrictions from the battery management app, open the app in your phone's app drawer, choose Android Auto, and then locate the app. Best regards

Under the driver's side of the car, there is a dpf that has been cleaned and removed. I deleted the swirl flaps because I thought they were the source of the problem, just like it happened on my Vito. Then I discovered that I needed to delete the EGR.

Since I am not knowledgeable about mapping, I will have to take the mapping company at their word when they say that the ether delete was successfully completed. However, having used their services on other vehicles, I have faith in their abilities. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions you might have regarding the main issue, which is the exorbitant cost of transporting the vehicle back to the UK via ferry.

Yes, I did clean the MAF sensor. I make it a point to do so once every twelve months when I change the oil and filter.

Truthfully, I had assumed that the swirl flaps were to blame for their deletion; my mapping colleague discovered the deletion, and neither his system nor my Icarsoft could reproduce the error codes.

Hi there, I just discovered that someone deleted the EGR system and swirl flaps from my 90k mileage car today. Upon startup, it will run for about 10–20 seconds before entering limp mode, from which it will not emerge.

Errors detected on the scanner but no EML.

No engine management light is on. A mapping company used their diagnostics to look into the faults, and they found no codes. An icarsoft scanner was also used.

Greetings, all! The model year is 2008. After a normal startup, it enters limp mode and won't reset until rebooted; after that, it starts over. There is absolutely no indication of error codes. This just happened recently; previously, the car would occasionally go into limp mode, but resetting it was as simple as turning off the ignition, waiting 30 seconds, and restarting. After that, it would run smoothly for a few more months. Many thanks

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?search-alias=aps&field-keywords=MINI+N12B14+engine+valve+cover

It is my strong suspicion that the piston rings are knackered and that the rocker cover PCV-BGA are of very poor quality. Stick to brick-and-mortar stores for all of your genuine BMW, FAI, or Febi needs.

I understand that trustpilot reviews aren't perfect, but 1.9 does point to some problems. It seems likely that you received a subpar one.

I agree, it's not good, particularly if the repair in the valley involves more than just a gasket. Repairing it, of course, will not be an issue for the dealer mechanic. It might be helpful to seek the opinion of a third-party mechanic. If you can't afford to fix it, then just take off that amount.

You can purchase a comparable item on eBay that operates on a 12v power source, similar to a rope light.

I possessed new MK4 and MK5 Cortinas, and I truly yearn for them.

Greetings, it is entirely electric. Thirty-one thousand. Possessed it for three years.

The BMW iX1 is producing a ticking or rotating noise when I engage the accelerator, particularly at reduced speeds. There is no indication light, and it appears to become noisier with extended usage. Does not influence the operation or efficiency. Has anyone encountered a comparable problem with any electric model? Do you have any suggestions regarding what it might be?

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Have you thought about a less expensive pastime if the premium difference for heavily modified vehicles is a dealbreaker? 😉

Well done, you've ruled out that avenue 👍.

You need compression levels above 190 psi for a turbo, which is currently low. I find it interesting that brake cleaner/easy start only moistens the plugs, yet having spark is helpful. Were the sensors you swapped out OEM parts from a local retailer or authentic BMW parts? I won't claim otherwise, but with all the fake stuff floating around, it's worth verifying.