jimmy47785

That seems like the appropriate place to begin. I don't mind paying for a car, but it's challenging to make payments on a vehicle that spends more time in the repair shop than in my driveway within a year. Is it unreasonable to want comped payments over these months, considering the circumstances?

Purchased the automobile in June 2023. Premium Plus Mild Hybrid Electric Vehicle Inline-6 with 15,000 kilometres Transfer case leaked in November, spent 5 weeks in the shop waiting for a new transfer case, but ended up just changing the seal since the transfer case was unavailable. Had vehicle serviced for recalls and check engine light last week. Received notification that the high voltage battery pack is faulty and is not available until June due to being on backorder. Upon its arrival, the automobile will have spent 6 months out of the 12 months I have owned it in the shop. According to the VA lemon rules, an automobile qualifies if it has been in the shop for over 30 days during the first year of ownership or before reaching 18,000 miles. I lack knowledge in this area and I am unsure whether this is the optimal line of action. I'm looking for someone's insight on this matter to determine whether it's the correct course of action. I adore the automobile, but I am not fond of its issues.

If you are in the process of removing the cylinder head, it is not necessary to be very concerned about aligning and fitting the camshafts and the tool, since they may be significantly misaligned, making it difficult to properly position the tool. Simply secure the crankshaft in place, ensuring that all the pistons are positioned halfway up the bore, thereby eliminating the risk of valve collision. Simply fasten the camshafts using a 27mm spanner and proceed to detach the camshaft sprockets. In my opinion, the inlet manifold is the most challenging task I have encountered so far.

Understood. The most suitable starting point would be the refreshment that you are seeing as a traditional option. (However, it will get expensive!). You may have come across postings from individuals who possess extensive knowledge regarding these engines and generously offer their skills. I just saw your automobile on Ebay, namely in the section for sold listings. It seems to be rather attractive, and the condition of the engine seems to be satisfactory, without any significant issues. This project seems to be commendable, provided that you had enough room, equipment, and time. What progress have you made with the dismantling process?

I am also located in Bristol, namely in Winterbourne. I am now doing the same task as you. I have progressed to disassembling the cylinder head and have started the reassembly process. You can find more details about my engine refresh project at the DIY Engine Refresh section. I am willing to provide suggestions and, if necessary, tools. Please provide a comprehensive summary of the pollutants detected during the MOT test. Specifically, did the vehicle fail the hydrocarbon emissions test?

The mileage is 70,000 and it is very difficult to accommodate a person's weight in the passenger seat. I will be returning on Friday to see what solution they provide this time.

A single technician is sufficient to operate a can of WD40. They can use their index finger to move the can and their opposable thumb to grasp it.

Best wishes to the courageous individual use such device while the vehicle is in motion.

The issue is in the dealer's refusal to dispatch two technicians to the vehicle and their unwillingness to apply a substance that requires the presence of two technicians, followed by a subsequent application.

Unfortunately, none of those factors apply, and there is no variation or impact on speed (as would be expected if there were a hub or material stuck in the dust shield). The issue is definitely due to the suspension.

I have dedicated a substantial amount of time searching for comparable information, although I have been unable to get a satisfactory solution. Ever since I purchased this vehicle half a year ago, I have been experiencing a frictional or grinding sound emanating from the front of the car while driving at moderate speeds on uneven roads. The sound may be best described as a frictional noise like the contact between a tyre and an inner wing, rather than a metallic or high-pitched sound. The occurrence takes place during the downward motion, rather than the upward motion, if that is comprehensible. The problem becomes evident just when the automobile is occupied by two people. The phenomenon fully disappears when it is saturated with moisture. Upon first inspection, the dealer identified a ball joint failure and proceeded to repair both front spring links. Upon realising that their first attempt did not resolve the issue, they made another attempt and saw excessive movement in the tension struts. This observation came after considering the possibility but ultimately excluding the anti-roll bar as the cause. Both tension struts were replaced. We are still encountering the same problem and I am perplexed. I have scheduled an appointment for the third diagnosis. During the last diagnosis, I brought the technician along with me so that he could listen to the issue firsthand. Does anybody have any valuable guidance that I might provide to them for their investigation? I am certain that a competent independent mechanic would resolve the issue more efficiently, but as it is covered by warranty, I am unable to get it serviced elsewhere. Thank you!

Hello, I see the rationale of informing the insurance company, since there may be a significant financial implication of several thousand units of currency for PPF. I am not interested in ceramic coating. As said before, who has the ability to discern the distinction?

I have had my C207 250cdi since it was brand new in 2012. The current mileage is 70,000 and the average fuel efficiency is 49 miles per gallon. Dependable and free from any shaking or noise. Upon considering the matter, I concluded that I would retain this automobile until it exhibits any indications of a potentially costly issue, as I have never had a car for more than 8 years. The automobile, as you are aware, continues to attract attention!

And a year and a half. Regrettably, it is unlikely that anybody can definitively determine if the concerns you voiced during the warranty period had any influence on the subsequent engine failure. I recommend consulting an impartial expert to get an accurate estimate for the repair expenses or the replacement engine. The automobile may yet have value to salvage, albeit clearly not at the exorbitant hourly cost charged by the Mercedes-Benz dealer.

Are you referring to a discrepancy in the functionality of the calliper in order to release the binding? I have made a reservation for it, since Christmas is approaching and I need the automobile. Thank you.

Your question prompted me to further contemplate the advantages and disadvantages of a repair. From a financial perspective, the value of my automobile is negligible. However, acquiring a similarly dependable replacement would need an expenditure of at least £5k (not considering a direct replacement). Moreover, this would result in an instant decrease in value due to depreciation. Given that I meticulously recorded the expenses of my previous vehicle and its current value is negligible, I am immune to the impact of depreciation. Under what circumstances would it be logical for me to cover the costs of several hundred pounds for repairs instead of immediately paying £5,000 for a new car? I believe that has a certain degree of coherence.

Indeed, that is correct! Due to a momentary interruption on my vehicle radio that happened to coincide with very sluggish traffic, I managed to perceive the faint screech emanating from the rear offside. I may have detected my problem before it had any effect on the CD. However, considering my age of 22 years and mileage of 271,000, I must exercise caution in determining if a repair is really worthwhile.

On Friday, two days prior to my awareness of the problem, I travelled around 139 miles to Kettering and had many instances of abrupt braking throughout the route. The braking was typical.

Thank you for that. If we assume that the issue is a stuck calliper, do you have any estimate on the duration it would take for a garage to rectify the problem? I'm attempting to prevent being deceived or defrauded.

Greetings, everyone. I need guidance on how to prevent the occurrence of friction between one of my rear brake pads and its corresponding disc. Yesterday, while stuck in slow-moving traffic, I suddenly became aware of a high-pitched noise coming from the back wheel, which seemed to be connected to its rotation. A few hours ago, I elevated the vehicle, manually spun the wheel, and saw the brake pad making contact with the disc and causing visible abrasions as it moved. I hypothesise that when the disc undergoes heating and subsequently expands, the level of binding will intensify. Presumably, there exists a device for regulating the gap between the brake pad and the disc, however I lack knowledge on its nature. While I cannot confirm its relevance, the shock absorber on this wheel was changed half a year ago. The vehicle in question is a 22-year-old C220 Cdi Sports Coupe with a mileage over 271,000 miles. Despite its age, it remains dependable and incurs an annual cost of less than £800, inclusive of maintenance expenses. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts? Thank you.

Similar to the behaviour seen in previous articles, the user engages in the practise of copying and pasting responses from other individuals. The individual is likely experiencing feelings of sadness and isolation.

In this examination, the Mazda CX-60 equipped with Toyo tyres has a superior performance rating in comparison to comparable premium vehicles.

Have you conducted a physical inspection of the backlight bulb holders and verified the operational status of both brake light bulbs, if there are two?

The status of the lights was verified. Certain brake light assemblies may use dual bulbs, creating the illusion of functional brake lights, but with varying levels of luminosity. If this is not the cause of the specific problem you are experiencing? It is advisable to verify the condition of the earths and connections. Please provide updates on your progress.

As per my first understanding, I would want to inquire about the warranty coverage provided by the BMW dealer network.