VWDaveBMW

Hi I was trying to sell my car and got a few people to come view a bit late. One of them opened the bonnet and put his hand somewhere and then went back inside the car. Then a lot of error messages started appearing on the dashboard. These errors were not there before and I'm sure because I had taken a photo before to advertise the car. The errors are 1. Engine Fault Reduced power 2. Driving stabilisation failure 3. Flat tyre Monitor failure These guys were still insisting to buy the car but for a lot cheaper. I eventually told them that I will not sell a car with issues. I got suspicious because they were going on and on about how the engine will cost a lot to repair and I was telling them that it makes no sense that there is a flat tyre failure. Can anyone help me figure out what they could have done? Did they disconnect a set of sensors and if they know help me fix this

I am in possession of a 2011 750li B7 vehicle. The vehicle is now immobilized in the park position. The installation of a fresh battery has been duly recorded. The installation of a new alternator and the reprogramming of the transmission were performed. The mechatronic device has been replaced, however, the error code remains same. The driver's job request with the identification number 401071 has been declined on the grounds of an active rejection in the Early Warning System (EWS), namely in the general category. The term "permanent" refers to something that is enduring or lasting indefinitely without any significant changes Has anybody encountered these difficulties, and if so, what was the remedy implemented?

Please verify the firmware version of your I drive, as this information will provide the necessary details.

I have several from the 1950s, but they are just too many pages to scan and save. There is nothing from China in the that I use as a reference or to swap out for other vehicles.

Due to several negative encounters with body shops that promised the moon but failed to achieve the desired result, I find myself siding with Forsh here. You can only obtain a "insurance approved" bodyshop to undertake the repair if you insist on a "original" finish, and if they don't do it right the first time, you may send it back to them until they do. The inspectors employed by insurance companies are notoriously picky when it comes to approving repairs, repainting, and the like. Being an engineer over the last half-century.

The adage "Auto fluids don't need to be changed, ever, except sometimes..." was common knowledge in my household in the '90s, so yeah, I knew that. Do you know whether such vehicles often come with a dipstick, or if it's necessary to measure how much was drained and then replace it with the exact same amount? - This isn't your uncle's Honda, therefore I'd recommend having an expert handle it.

All the vehicles I'm considering cost no more than 50,000.

I've never bought an automatic since I've been told they're terrible and manuals are less expensive. Because I am growing older, my left knee is a little arthritic, and I am driving a lot more these days, I am hoping to indulge in a little self-pampering. In addition, the ZF-8 is said to be a fantastic device that can outperform the manual shifting skills of the vast majority of individuals. I believe the automatic transmission in the F20-118d I want to purchase is a ZF-8 8HP50. A brand new 2018 version. In the low-powered 118d, how is the driving experience with that gearbox? Is there a problem with dependability or cost?

Exactly what he can do with his diagnostic tools is unclear to me. In my opinion, it just deciphers codes and does not use real data to determine speeds.

Okay, but he reconnected the wrong wire when he replaced the brakes; now I'm wondering whether or not I need replace the ABS sensor.

My technician who just replaced the brake pads says that cutting the cable leading to the brake wear sensor can cause the ABS light go off.

My ABS wear sensor (brake wear sensor) isn't even connected.

The sensor I replaced was the stock one that came with the new brakes in 2012; do you think upgrading to a different sensor will help?

Hello, I had it scanned, and the results were that the back driver had a problem with the anti-lock brakes (ABS) and the tyre pressure on the road.

Can somebody help me reset my tyre pressure or wheel speed sensor abs light?

I really like Sonax. Amazing quality.

I'm not 100% sure, but I'd think that it displays the vehicle's gas mileage and charging speed. I welcome any rebuttals to my assumptions.

Maybe I'm missing something, but why would anybody care if the windows were down in the vehicle when it was at the dealership?

I appreciate the prompt answer; I have an extended warranty and think this will be covered. Using the warranty to attempt a repair. We appreciate you taking the time to explain this in such depth and bring it up here.

🫠

The same thing is happening to me; the automobile keeps dropping in height as I drive. Is it working properly now? How did this problem get fixed, exactly?

I tried one of these, and although it worked, the hose kept popping off, so I lubricated it by pouring water down the toilet.

The end product looks fantastic, and Jay should be commended for his hard work. Keep the placarded pressures that are located within the filler flap, as was previously specified. Changing the diameter of the wheel by itself will not affect how well the arches are filled (or if they are filled at all), since the total diameter of the wheel and tyre will remain the same. If it didn't, the speedometer would be inaccurate. Visually speaking, there is a little distinction between having more wheels and having less tires, although this distinction is negligible given that the difference is just 1 inch. Even if they are the same size, wheels with different styles (and colors) might seem rather different from one another.

What does it say when you check the temperature in the instrument cluster while you're outside? I've seen strange behavior from the climate control system brought on by a defective outside air temperature sensor previously.

I would recommend that you get in touch with either MSL or GAD. They are both knowledgeable in tuning the 157, and it is possible that they can assist with detuning it. Russ