VWDaveBMW

I wanted to thank you and finish the thread. There was no need to replug the diagnostic tool after installing the 40ah auxiliary battery today; to my relief, the engine management light and drivetrain warning went away.

Based on my observations, the hybrid side is totally separate from the 2.0 engine, meaning the 12v system is identical to a regular 2.0i. This means that the spare battery can be easily replaced. After the replacement, my next question is whether the alarm will go off by itself.

Thanks, I'll do my best to dig a little deeper.

Based on what I've discovered online, you can directly replace the small auxiliary battery; the only one you need to inform the software about when it's replaced is the boot battery.

Could you please tell me which 12v battery this is referring to? My 2016 330e has a small 12v battery under the hood, and I think that's the source of the 2228c8 fault. On my coder, I can see the amp hour rating and reset option for the larger 12v battery in the boot menu, but I can't find anything about the smaller 12v battery or resetting. This has me confused. I would greatly appreciate any assistance.

Haha, I just realised the ix1; my apologies. I possess no knowledge regarding electric vehicles; I break out in a rash when I approach one, haha.

What mileage does petrol diesel achieve? Is the clicking noise originating from the engine or the front differential, particularly when turning?

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Greetings everyone, I recently obtained a stunning 2004 730LD, which was purchased with a diesel leak in the return pipes from the injectors. After several injectors and new return pipes were damaged, we uncovered that the flow from the tank was incorrectly connected to the return line and vice versa. The pipes have been properly installed and bled to the engine's pump, yet diesel fails to transfer from the pump to the injectors; I have loosened one injector, but there is no diesel emerging. What actions should I take at this moment, please? 🙏

Determine the voltage of the battery.

A supplementary earth wire must be added to the bulb holder's earth connection.

Your description accurately reflects its behaviour. I will order one and have the technician install it, hoping it functions correctly; if not, I will request the next best component for replacement. Thank you! Your description accurately reflects its behaviour. I will order one, have the mechanic install it, and hope it functions; if not, I will request the next best component for replacement. Thank you!

Your description accurately reflects its behaviour. I will order one and have the technician install it, hoping it functions properly; if not, I will request the next best component for replacement. Thank you!

I will enquire with the mechanic whether he utilised software for the bleeding process, given he specialises exclusively in BMW and Mercedes vehicles. He believes that another element of the ABS system, such as the accumulator, is defective. I am uncertain about the additional components in the ABS system. Notwithstanding, I have possessed the vehicle for two weeks, and the braking performance has not improved nor altered. It is profoundly disconcerting, since I am uncertain whether it will genuinely cease or what the consequences might be if I abruptly applied the brakes.

The ABS warning lights on my 1994 BMW 840 are now extinguished; our mechanic fitted a pre-owned ABS pump sourced from eBay (1998-2000 BMW 540, 528, Z3, 740i ABS Anti-Lock Brake Pump Module 0265217000). The mechanic bled the brakes twice and then a third time to address a new issue exhibited by the automobile following the installation of a previously owned ABS pump acquired on eBay. The brake pedal provides spongy resistance at around one-quarter of its journey, yet effectively halts the vehicle. However, once halted, if I persist in pressing the pedal, it ultimately descends to the floor. I have own this California Car since February 2011, with the ABS system operational. Approximately around 2012, the ABS pump malfunctioned. Nonetheless, the brakes have consistently provided excellent performance, regardless of the functionality of the ABS. Nevertheless, I grew weary of the two ABS warning lights, and the appropriate course of action was to rectify the ABS issue. The car currently has 226,500 miles and operates excellently, by the way. What should I attempt next to resolve this issue? I appreciate your assistance.

Carriers may be necessary. I have always regarded the stock configuration of my 3.0d e53 as satisfactory.

I would suspect the DMF. I highly question its connection unless there is much excessive play present.

The presence of rust on a 2016 vehicle implies that it has likely undergone bodywork, despite the expectation of galvanisation in contemporary models.

This may seem like a trivial inquiry, but could you clarify which pipes are the vacuum pipes? Are they the ones associated with the EGR system?

Hello, it is the N47 engine with a power output of 130 kW/177 hp, and it has 126,000 kilometres recorded. A friend has a competent professional-grade reader that I intend to borrow. Thank you.

Hi, I am experiencing a rather unusual problem with my engine. In lower gears and at low RPMs, the vehicle accelerates moderately; but, when I apply full throttle, the engine exhibits a sluggish response and a significant deficiency in power. Getting up any type of an incline is difficult. I own an Obdeleven code reader, however it is not displaying any information. I have detached the air intake, and the turbo rotates freely when I apply finger pressure. A little amount of oil, but not excessive. No visible fractures in the charging hose. Starting to run out of ideas. Assistance with defect identification would be much appreciated.

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A part number is invaluable for locating the appropriate component, and all such numbers may be found in realoem.

The iDrive requires time to display an accurate level. Ensure the engine is heated prior to obtaining the reading. I would never trust it and would use the dipstick each time, if it is equipped with one.

The dipstick is reliable, since it never provides false readings. After a level sensor malfunction during an oil change, I transferred the oil into a clean container and then returned it to the system. I use a 25-liter drum with the bottom removed.