Matt865

While there is a slight possibility that it may be attributed to another factor, it is important to note that this alternative explanation is tenuous at most. Ideally, the new battery should have been subjected to a charging process prior to installation. However, in the absence of this precautionary measure, it may need several days for the battery to attain a sufficient charge level to enable the functioning of the stop/start feature. It is important to note that there are other requirements that must also be satisfied for the stop/start functionality to be operational. From my perspective, I would advocate for allowing a period of around one week to elapse before contemplating any more actions. Please provide us with an update on the progress of the situation.

Greetings, I find myself in a same situation as you. I am curious whether you have obtained any information on the appropriate placement of your subordinate input?

This issue may be attributed to a depleted battery in the key fob. My viewpoint pertains to automobiles lacking pushbutton ignition systems. It seems that your viewpoint pertains to automobiles equipped with a start button. Could you please clarify your response as either affirmative or negative?

The illumination of the LED remains constant throughout engine operation, and there is no discernible correlation with the battery status of the key FOB.

If the MX-5 vehicle exhibits similar characteristics to previous Mazda models I have had, it is seen that the security indicator light remains in a blinking state throughout the duration while the engine is off.

This particular aspect has significant importance. One should refrain from adopting a mindset of expeditiousness, underestimating the significance of the task at hand, assuming that doing it inside would mitigate potential risks, or relying only on the efficacy of a mask for personal protection. Personally I wouldn’t risk it.

One aspect worth noting is that achieving a precise color match for silver may be somewhat challenging (although considering the location of the automotive component to be painted, any potential mismatch may not be readily seen).

After letting the oil rest overnight, I verify it by rolling the vehicle back a few meters. It may seem difficult because of the angle and since it is not in the right place, but I am able to enter and exit it. The door now rests on a foam/soft plastic cushion I mounted to the wall.I'm not a weakling, and others at the GTG will back me up on that!

For the obvious reason of releasing the locks on both ends. Who here can handle it single-handedly? My own I can set up by myself. In all seriousness, I've found it easiest to do the passenger side first, followed by the driver's side. Ever since Koolvin and Mark taught me how to do it at the GTG, I just pop it up. Excellent improvement in terms of illumination and general spaciousness. The source of this picture is...

I have arrived at this point belatedly. What is the significance or relevance of the measurement of 2mm? There is little likelihood of the light on the dashboard being illuminated unless an individual has tampered with the sensor. I am pleased to hear that you have resolved your situation.

Verifying the absence of leaks in the coolant system subsequent to the replacement of the water pump is an essential measure to ascertain the efficacy of the repair. In the event that there is a suspicion of a leak, it is essential to conduct a thorough investigation. The following are a series of steps that may be undertaken: Operate the Engine: As previously indicated, begin the engine and allow it to reach its optimal temperature. Conduct a thorough examination of the coolant filling bottle and its corresponding piping to detect any indications of potential leakage. Inspect the Water Pump: To assess potential leakage, it is advisable to tactually examine the water pump while the engine is at a lower temperature. The examination of this particular domain has significance due to the potential consequences arising from a malfunctioning water pump, namely the depletion of coolant. Examine the Coolant Reservoir: As shown in the case of the E-Class vehicle, the presence of minuscule punctures in the coolant reservoir might give rise to complications when the engine is operating at elevated temperatures and subjected to increased pressure. Thoroughly examine the coolant reservoir. Validate the Source of the Water Pump. In the event of a leak or suspected leak, it is essential to verify the authenticity of the water pump being used by ensuring it is a genuine Mercedes component. Additionally, it is crucial to ascertain that the installation of this water pump has been executed accurately. The installation of a water pump that is done inadequately or the use of a water pump of substandard grade might result in several problems. It is advisable to get guidance from a qualified specialist. Contact the professional responsible for the water pump replacement and communicate your apprehensions. It is advisable to do a thorough inspection of the vehicle and promptly rectify any deficiencies in the event that the repair was not executed accurately. It is important to conduct regular inspections of the coolant system in order to identify and swiftly rectify any potential leaks. This practice is crucial for ensuring the optimal operation of the vehicle's cooling system and mitigating the risk of engine overheating or damage.

Could you please provide an update on the progress of your efforts in reversing the situation? I am encountering a similar issue. I made the decision to purchase a vehicle with a mileage of 90,000 due to my preference for the allroad model and its perceived affordability. However, in the event that I am required to do maintenance on the torque converter and/or the gearbox, I will see it as an unfair treatment. Kindly inform me of the course of action you pursued. In an attempt to maintain a positive outlook, several individuals suggested that the issue at hand may pertain to a simple but elusive electrical malfunction and subsequent resolution. Please provide a response.

I think the golden gold hue is fantastic; nice work!

At first glance, I thought it may be the timing chain or tensioner, but with further inspection, I saw no cause for concern.

I knew going in that this 520's motor was shot, so I've never even heard it start.

I made a thorough inspection when I took out the timing chains, and everything seemed OK. I haven't taken off the balancing shaft yet, but it spins easily.

After discovering metallic flakes in the filter while doing an oil change on our 2012 520D F10 N47, I have decided to rebuild the engine. The sump was full of metal scraps, including the brass pieces shown above; to provide scale, I set a pen next to one of the pieces to illustrate its size; it seems to be a bushing; and, to date, I have removed the head, the crank, the pistons, and the connecting rods without locating it. The shards of metal are the result of the common issue of a faulty large end bearing. Leave a comment if you recognize these pieces, and I'll update this post if I'm able to track out their origin.

See this > Lucas 400e Master Parts Catalog - 1960.pdf for further info. Seven hundred and fifty-six pages of helpful information on all Lucas components.

Yeah! But I'm faster now than I ever was before....

So let me get this straight: a vinegar onslaught is the key to a fresh new appearance. This may work as a plan

More is the pity by the way as I have always fancied a Porsche Boxster but now they have been bought under the VW mantel I am going to fight shy. In fact I doubt I will ever spend considerable amounts of money on a car again; at least not until the reliability and quality of the electrics catches up. A 14 year old MX5 and an 8 year old Ford Focus (which has never had a single thing wrong with it - not even a light bulb) will suffice. We've also got a Citroen van for work but it is too new for any kind of judgement yet. I do quite like driving it though.

It appears you have run across the rigid and annoying guarantee system implemented by the VW group. We had a Seat corrosion problem, and the attitude, especially from the dealer, was terrible. Audi UK (which manages customer support for the Volkswagen Group) was marginally more sympathetic, but nothing was done. Since I had no positive experiences with any of the VW group's products, I sold the automobile and have no plans to acquire another one. Throughout the years, the Seat was the least dependable vehicle we've ever had. A series of minor issues (mainly electrical) and some issues with quality control cropped up.

Once upon a time, my friends and I would jump out of the windows of my Fiat 126 (the "Mean Machine") and inform passers-by that the doors had been welded shut to increase rigidity and so enhance the vehicle's handling.

Ours too goes from high to low and then settles there. I'm almost certain that the S205's three-stage system entirely shuts off after a specific amount of time.

Our 2007 Vito only has a 2-stage heated factory driver's seat, but maybe this was improved upon in the redesign.