WordSmith

The fatigue of springs may occur on either the passengers' side, where the battery is located in the trunk, or on the drivers' side, depending on the weight of the previous owner, whether they were hefty or skinny. Is it possible for a stance to exhibit a bias towards one particular side? The springs on motor vehicles are susceptible to rusting, which may lead to the snapping of coils. If the aforementioned condition is not met, can the automobile still be considered safe to drive as long as the brakes are functioning properly?

Exercise caution while manipulating or exploring the spring region with manual dexterity, including with the use of hands and fingers. Utilize the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) jack to elevate your vehicle and proceed to detach one tire at a time. It is advised to refrain from exerting manual pressure on the springs, since doing so may result in personal injury, particularly if the springs are already damaged or compromised. It is important to use caution. Utilize a flashlight to ascertain if the springs have become disassembled.

The presence of broken ball joints, deteriorated bushings, or loose bolts inside the suspension system may result in excessive movement and audible disturbances. The presence of corroded and fractured springs in a vehicle is a potential hazard during operation, since they have the capacity to generate audible disturbances. There are several factors that need to be examined in order to identify the underlying issue. Please allocate sufficient time to conduct a comprehensive examination, starting from the front and proceeding to the back.

It is possible that some suspension bushings may exhibit signs of wear or degradation due to dry rot. The gear mount of an automatic gearbox may produce auditory disturbances when engaging and initiating motion. What is the total distance, measured in kilometers, traveled by the car?

The content seems to be commendable.

As you are undoubtedly aware, all BMW software upgrades come with integration levels. These integration levels allow the dealer to easily determine what programming level the car is programmed with by reading the key data, which is one of the many simple ways to verify. After the programming has been brought up to date, there is a lengthy adaptation method that must be carried out. This procedure must be performed to the letter in order to attempt to correct the error.

This is a known problem, and depending on the amount of integration that is currently installed in the vehicle, a software upgrade may be necessary. After then, there is a certain technique for adaptation that has to be carried out. In the event that this does not work, it is possible that you have a slow Valvetronic motor.

I am now facing a similar predicament whereby I am uncertain if it would be more prudent to engage in the sale of the item or to invest effort in rectifying the issue at hand. There is a pre-owned transmission available, which has accumulated a mileage of 66,000. The cost of acquiring and installing this transmission amounts to $3,000, inclusive of both components and labor expenses. Uncertainty exists over the potential efficacy of this solution in addressing the issue of reversal problem.

Cant rail — maybe the c-pillar beside the hatch?

It's funny that it took you five weeks to come up with that joke since your previous post.

The trick is to remove them without bending them too much, since it will be impossible to straighten them back to a perfect 90 degrees if that occurs.

Is it true that you can't reach them with the window partially open? When everything else fails, elimination is your best bet.

After a month of online study, I've concluded that MB should repair this at no cost to me under the terms of the guarantee. MB is aware, as far as I’m aware, that the original Wabco compressors have a somewhat short lifespan.

I forgot to inform everyone here. As of the first of December, you will be able to witness for yourself the nature of my problem. I switched out the relay and it appeared to fix it. However, the issue returned more than a week after a new relay was placed. I was able to obtain a replacement compressor pump from Miessler in Germany and have it sent to my address in Dublin within 24 hours. Have had no problems since installing it before the holidays. It's possible that a new relay (which shouldn't cost more than twenty pounds) might solve your problem if it's identical to mine. Alternately, you might pay extra to have a new relay and compressor installed simultaneously. You must also replace the relay when you swap out the pump on a compressor. I ordered a compressor pump from Miessler Automotive, and I'm quite pleased with the service I received. I was amazed at how soon everything came and how quickly my questions were handled.

Thanks. Nothing about this is particularly difficult to do or time-consuming. The error messages do not aid in problem identification. I am not in a hurry to take it to Mercedes since I know that their "technicians" (aka fitters) would simply throw parts at it at my cost and not truly get to the root of the problem but instead "fix it" by replacing everything at a premium price with a ludicrous labor fee.

I was hoping someone may be able to help me figure out what's causing my suspension to be shaky. My C350e is 45 months old this year. Almost 60,000 kilometers. About two weeks ago, the ride home from school with the kids was rather bouncy in the back. There was no warning light on the dashboard. I had to pull over to make sure the rear wheels weren't touching the ground. First impressions were favorable. After turning the key again, I climbed back into the car, and the dashboard screen showed that the vehicle was in motion. The suspension returned to normal, and the trip home was uneventful. I was quite comfortable going out later that night. On the way to school the next day, I saw a warning that said "STOP VEHICLE - VEHICLE TOO LOW" displayed on my dashboard. Before I could stop, it was gone, and when I finally did, the front and back suspension seemed unharmed. The fact that the automobile continued to function normally while the alert was shown makes me suspect that it was a bogus message. Back became quite bumpy, no warning sign, but rear suspension low (wheel arch over the tyres), same as the previous evening on the way home from school. When I hit the suspension up button and began driving again, the vehicle once again rose. The compressor engaged as expected, based on my hearing. Since the suspension remained in its normal position when the vehicle was parked from Thursday to Tuesday, we can rule out a leaking air spring as the cause of the problem. Similarly, I didn't hear the compressor start up on Tuesday when I turned the key to take the vehicle in for fault code reading. Less than five minutes from home, on the way to the garage, the dashboard warning message to stop illuminated once again, and this time the rear suspension absolutely sank straight down. However, when I stopped and clicked the button to lift the suspension, it went back up and rode smoothly the whole eight miles to the garage. The back end, which is the part that has been falling, did not register any problems in the code reading. Codes for both front sensors being out of range and an error for the compressor taking too long to increase the height were apparently present. Based on the symptoms, and that the compressor seems to be working and raising the car, and that it is an intermittent issue, my conclusion (before error codes read) was that it was either a sensor issue - system thinking rear is too high and dropping the rear, but doesnt pick up the change and therefore keeps trying to drop it. This, however, seems unlikely given that the error codes do not point to an issue in the back. The mechanism might have been opening a valve to lower the suspension, but it could have been stuck in the open position, causing the read to drop to zero. The compressor would run too long because it is attempting to raise pressure yet the air it is fed is escaping unimpeded. The fact that the vehicle did not issue a warning the first two times the system voltage dropped too low suggests otherwise, unless both explanations are correct. The technical data the mechanic at the garage has obtained seems to indicate that the compressor is leaking in some kind; yet, I still don't understand why the rear springs would be deflating in this way. After being looked at, it ran normally for a day before flashing the stop warning again; this time, however, the front end was the faulty component. I had the codes checked again the next morning and the same three appeared (even though I had already deleted them). Since then, it has occurred a few more times, always to the front or the back but never both at once. When I turn the vehicle off and then back on, I always receive the "car rising" message, and the car always rises again after around 30 seconds, which is about what you'd anticipate given that it's entirely filling two bags. I have ruled out a leaky air bag or supply line because of the compressor's direct connection to the valve manifold and the fact that it is alternating between the front and rear. Since the air bags all share the same discharge valve, I've deduced that it's staying open for longer than it should, either due to a strike or the controller's insistence on keeping it that way. This is causing the compressor to take too long to refill. The error numbers on the two front sensors are what I can't explain. In my opinion, this is the kind of problem that may be resolved with the assistance of someone who has encountered the same set of symptoms previously. I'd be thankful for any suggestions that use logic to connect the cause to the symptoms. If you agree with me, would you put more faith in the controller (despite the valve being a discrete component attached to the compressor, it is not sold separately, necessitating the replacement of the whole unit, even if it seems to function normally) or the valve? I've heard that a leak within the valve manifold would be to blame, but I don't believe that's the case here; the vehicle doesn't tip over while it's sitting still. If anybody thinks this might be the case, however, please explain how that would come about. Thanks

The most impressive collection of very well-maintained old vehicles that I've ever seen. It has expanded tremendously over the course of the years. When you include in Spitfires taking off only feet away, traditional pedal car racing, and an orchestra performing on the start-finish line, you have a car meet that could only take place at Goodwood. When people are leaning over a million pound Ferrari to get a better shot on a 10,000 mile 1981 Fiesta, it's a weird moment for old automobiles. And of course, there will be no charge for the admission tickets! I snapped a ton of pictures....I've put up some of my greatest work today. Apologies for the connection to another website; but, owing to the complicated nature of uploading pictures to this site and the absence of an automatic photo resizing feature, placing all of those pictures here would take an interminable amount of time.

Having previously driven a hot hatch and having spent several years in the Auris, I concur. It's more of a comfort-oriented conveyance than a B-road stormer. I didn't choose this, but I'm happy to have it. Since it has been on the road for four years, only scheduled maintenance has occurred. Interested in testing out the 180-hp Corolla.

For the last two years, my vehicle of choice has been an Auris hybrid. Toyota hybrids have fewer moving parts, which means fewer potential failure points. They do not include a turbocharger, dual-mass flywheels, clutch, sophisticated DSG gearbox, starting motor, or alternator. Planetary gearboxes are typically single-speed devices. The hybrid technology takes care of the rest, and it's the same basic idea behind over twenty years' worth of Prius models. They're dependable across long distances, as your neighbourhood Uber drivers can confirm.

I was driving home from work in silence when I came to a halt at a light and placed the gearbox in N. When the lights turn green, shift to D, but nothing happens—there are no gears at all! When the automobile entered Trans, Fail Mode, you managed to restart the ignition to get it rolling. Bringing it back to the garage one again tomorrow, predictions, please? Because with these automobiles, it's either nothing or a complete breakdown, a new gearbox or a malfunctioning sensor!

When I attempted this a few years ago, the corroded bolt made it an absolute nightmare for me to complete the task. Took me hours. I hope you have success with it. The most significant advantage is that you won't have to do it ever again!

Get the 1.5tsi cambelt replaced if Skoda would do it for £550. It's just half of what I've heard other people say. Any potential buyer in the future will inquire about the proper service history as you probably own it entirely. November is when mine is due. Almost unable to wait

A couple track days are on my agenda for this year. Which track day services would you suggest?

What tyre pressure do you have? When I switched the rear coil overs to gas, everything settled down significantly.

I have goodyear eagle asy 6 tyres on my f31 330d x drive, but urs3 performed better in the rain on my e46 330d, e90 330d, and focus st mk2.