TDudette

BMW are acting really childishly. Meyle or Ridex are also good options.

Indeed, it will. However, I would never take my vehicle to one of the big franchises. Technicians charge up to £200 per hour to do nothing except replace components as instructed by Star. They seem to have been making educated guesses. A Mercedes expert will investigate the issue thoroughly before providing a solution. He stands to gain the most from happy customers. The major players don't give a hoot. The constant influx of new proprietors ensures the survival of the enterprise.

Poor service from the dealership when an issue is reported with a vehicle. Toss expensive replacement components at the problem and then tell the client you can't repair it when they're returned. If the identical problem arises again within 12 months after the repair, the service is on the house. If it were my Mercedes, I'd take it to a good Star-certified mechanic and have them figure out what's wrong.

Perhaps there is a photograph of them taken apart somewhere in the world.

It's possible that subsequent models have a different system, but the front and side rails on my vehicle can't be removed.

If we are referring to the front at side rails that support the headliner, I assume they are covered in place. The inside of my '67 was quite stock, and it was coated in vinyl that looks and feels like plastic. Currently in a fragile state. I have no idea how to take them off if they are really detachable. C-pillar, left and right of hatch panels are masonitel-like cardboard with foam and vinyl covering. The hue is somewhat darker than white and closer to a very pale gray.

I may consider purchasing the vehicle.

After the one-year warranty expired, MB nevertheless gave me a sizable contribution toward the cost of a new compressor. When the dealer has many in stock, you know they sell them.

My 2016 S205 with 50,000 miles on it fell down on all four wheels and was not drivable, so I had to have it towed to the dealership early this year. The compressor stopped working because the mobile recovery (RAC) team let it run for too long. A flatbed truck took the car to the dealership. In the end, the problem was the car's compressor, so the next day the mechanic came and replaced it along with its relay. There was still slightly over £300 to pay after MB's contribution, even though the vehicle was out of warranty by a year. We picked up the automobile and drove it home, according to the speed limit of fifty (50). After 20 miles, the rider saw a yellow caution truck, slowed to 30 mph, and kept going. After driving for three miles, but still less than a mile from home, the red stop vehicle alert illuminated. Dealer was called, and a second rescue was set up. Although the air bags were a remote possibility, I mentioned that the automobile had a new compressor and that all four wheels had failed. The dealer assured me that the new valves almost never break down (there are lots of aftermarket options available on eBay, so there must be a need for them). The automobile was ready for pickup the next day, so I did just that. Compressor replacement was discussed; after discovering the problem, a new compressor and its relay were installed. When I inquired as to whether or not the valve block had been updated, I was assured not to worry since the new design is foolproof. When I remarked that it was fortunate that they had two compressors on hand, the service manager said, "We have done a number of them." Since MB components are covered by a guarantee, there will be no fees associated with replacing them. I drove home fearing further trouble, but the vehicle has been running well for the last five months, despite often sitting for more than a week at a time. In that case, what have I discovered? Overheating or a jammed compressor in a W205 may burst a high amp fuse and relay, and the valve block is disconnected from the compressor, so repairs can be expensive. Why could I lose traction in the front sometimes, but the back on other occasions? Valve block malfunction? A malfunctioning airmatic electronics box? Is there a problem with the compressor's relay, the pressure relief valve, or the level sensor(s)? It may become expensive if you had to replace components without error codes. What is the approximate cost of a relay (£40), valve block (£70), and electronics box (£300)? And then there's the work. I've rambled on enough, I'm sorry.

Did you ever figure out the solution to your problem? I've had the same problem with the same engine; the upstream nox sensor has given me trouble twice, and I'd like not have to send it to the stealership to have it fixed.

Hello, I recently had a new battery installed since I assumed that was the problem as well. I believe that I will have to take it to Mercedes since I've already had all of the electrics examined, and I'm hoping that they won't tell me that I need a new EMC. Sincere gratitude

Hello, I have a Mercedes A class, and for the last two years, whenever I drive it, the vehicle enters what I believe to be the limp mode. Some items, such as the window wipers, windows that won't open or shut, my radio turning off, the air conditioning turning off, not reading my fuel level, and a few other things, aren't working, but I can still drive the vehicle without any difficulties. If I switch off the vehicle while it is still operating in this mode, I will not be able to turn it back on until I first detach the battery. I've taken it to three different garages, and nobody can pinpoint what the problem is, despite the fact that there must be one. It may occur as often as once a week or not at all for five to six months at a time. Anyone have any suggestions? You should have received an image showing the lights that are displayed when it enters that mode. Sincere gratitude

It may be seen as a good thing that you've found yourself back where you began.

This "Guard 360" feature is now supposed to be an optional add-on that costs an additional 139.00 pounds on my 2016 C-Class. Having said that, it seems to be functioning without me having to pay for it. (although when you activate it, it does show that it is "not available," but after a few seconds it begins to function properly)

OM651 E250 Estate Model Year 2010 Hello once again, If my expectations hadn't been reduced as much as they have been throughout the course of my ownership of this automobile, it would shatter my heart. As a result, I have come to terms with the fact that beyond a certain age, certain components might get damaged or fall off. This morning while I was doing my best to start the car, the engine wouldn't turn over, and I noticed a distinct diesel odor. According to the picture, the pipe had been ripped, and fuel was everywhere...... In an ideal situation, I would cut off the frayed ends and rejoin the hose, despite the fact that I lost two centimeters where it broke. I have a brand fresh mb clic clip that you can use for it. If that does not work, and since I do not want to disassemble things to get to where the other end of the hose joins, I may have to cut out a portion and join another length of fresh 8mm hose if that is the only option. If this is the case, what diameter of joiner should be used to provide the optimum diesel-proof fit, using a pair of jubilee clips to secure the joint? Also, would the fact that I have been revving the engine indicate that I have to cleanse the system before drawing gasoline from one end? Thank you so much in advance, D. PS In a prior thread, I experienced leaking coming from the same location, so maybe I should have anticipated that the hose would rupture, but I didn't.

Mk3 Kugas, I think, can reset the tpms using the steering wheel options, although it is widely known not to shift a tyre with wear from left to right, and definitely not rotation directed ones. The app's instructions should explain.

Unfortunately, a resting key only addresses the problem in certain circumstances, but it is a significant improvement over the Mk2 keyless system. In some instances, the signal has been captured as the proprietor exits the vehicle, such as in a parking lot. When the owner is out of site, adjacent thieves intercept the signal that the car is being sealed and steal it. Despite the fact that cameras are present in many parking lots and there are more individuals nearby, car thefts continue to occur. Obviously, by the time the signal is captured, the key would not have gone to slumber. Even a faraday bag is ineffective because the signal is required to secure the car, so the key cannot be placed in the bag until after securing, which is too late. Thefts may be deterred by a high-quality visual anti-theft device, such as a steering wheel lock, or an alternative such as Autowatch Ghost II. Even though the new slumber key does not completely prevent duplication, it is a significant enhancement over what was previously available.

I suppose it flashes if you merely press the motion switch? I'd hazard a bet that the motion isn't off in the situation you describe; you may check this at home by locking the vehicle while remaining inside and moving your arms about. To observe what occurs, try pressing the buttons in the reverse sequence (motion, then tilt).

You should avoid hard drive-based camcorders since vibration will eventually destroy the hard drive, and DVD camcorders will often lose frames owing to error correction. MiniDV is more than adequate. If you intend to conducting live PC->camcorder editing, DV in makes editing much simpler. Otherwise, you'll have to upload the whole movie to your PC and edit it from there, which would take up a lot of disk space. Firewire over USB is much superior. 400 megabits per second against 100 megabits per second. There is no need for a separate mic input on the camera since AV-in incorporates this. Having a camcorder with a remote control cable drive (rather than infrared) apparently makes start/stop simpler... for example, the driver can stop/start the recording process.

The car is a Superspec, so a portion of the suspension would have been assembled at the RH factory prior to sale; therefore, you cannot fault him unless the original fabricator altered the design. Having said that, I have just been beneath mine and am unable to relate it to the image. Is it the front or back fastener of the lower wishbone (which, on my Superspec, is attached to the cross-box that houses the steering rack)?

One of the historical defects that caused my red pressure indicator to illuminate at a fairly consistent time/distance (even after the chain and guides were replaced) was the oil pump's balance shafts. This may or may not be related to your issue, but it could have been a contributing factor, as deterioration like that must be attributable to inadequate lubrication at the very least. My warranty replaced the pump entirely, and I've never had a problem with it again.

I would suggest purchasing a K+DCAN cable from eBay and using it in conjunction with specialised software such as INPA to diagnose and reset faults. BMWs may occasionally register errors, even if they are not permanent. They could be electrical flaws that require resetting/erasing.

I would suggest purchasing a K+DCAN cable from eBay and using it in conjunction with specialised software such as INPA to diagnose and reset faults. BMWs may occasionally register errors, even if they are not permanent. They could be electrical flaws that require resetting/erasing.

If it were me, I'd always look for the CPU with the greatest specifications and the maximum amount of memory since, just like with a computer or a laptop, you want the gadget to work swiftly and smoothly. When I link my vehicle to my smartphone via CarPlay, I utilise the built-in radio applications on my iPhone to listen to live streaming radio. I also have a 4G SIM card in my unit, however you can't use the Wi-Fi in the unit with the data sim at the same time if you have car play going. This is because car play connects to BT via an app called z-link, which utilises the Wi-Fi mode. No one tells you this. I found this out the hard way.

I got a droid unit from droiduk and put it in. This works with the standard mic that came with the car. You can also use a 3.5mm jack to connect an extra mic, which is what I've done. I found an original BMW mic for a good price, attached a 3.5mm jack plug to it, and then put it in. Since my car is a convertible, I put the second microphone right next to the first one in the steering hood. It works well, but the mic sound on phone calls is a little low, but I can still be heard.