TDudette

I've used the LR Extended Warranty and MoT warranty for a couple repairs, and I'll keep buying them because they seem to cover everything, and my go-to independent LR garage has no problems working with them. After my Evoque is 10 years old (or 100,000 miles), I will only go to a third party provider because LR will no longer offer coverage.

61 kWh should be more than enough for me as I'm not a boy racer. I will be satisfied if it can securely overtake when needed. During my test drive, I noticed that the Renault 4 possessed a surprising amount of power. Instead of waiting for the Kia, I would have bought it immediately if it had a battery with a little more range. In my opinion, the R4's cabin is both very sophisticated and attractive. In particular, I appreciate you taking time out of your vacation to provide feedback in the form of your comments.

It seems like the EV2 is a good fit for the 18" Hankook tires. They have been standard on VAG vehicles for a while now. In my experience, the tread life and traction of the Hankook Ventus Prime 3 or 4 tires are satisfactory. On the winding, hilly roads of Cornwall, how would you rate the overall performance of the car? It would be helpful to hear about your experiences with steep climbs as my test drive did not involve any.

One, be ready to spend £300 or more. 2. Just which service is lacking? The fourth-year service is extensive and includes replacing the cabin filter, brake fluid, air filter, and spark plugs (petrol) or fuel filters (diesel) as well as the brake fluid and air filters. Included in the fifth year's service is Service A, as well as ATF and filter change (automatic if applicable). Can you provide me with a copy of the DSB that shows the progress made so far? 3. You have a lot of options; you can acquire them from MB, Febi online, or simply choose not to wear them. Do you have authentic MB wheels or are they aftermarket?

Since the filter material is soft and sealed inside the box, it's possible you won't hear it rattle; alternatively, it might jam in place once the front flap is reattached.

Latest news: I followed Gemini's instructions after copying and pasting this message, and I was able to identify the problems with both loom connectors. I fixed them, and now it works! The parking sensors are working. Much obliged for the time you've taken.

Hi there, My search did not yield any results when I tried this site. So, this is the piece. 2012 Ford Mustang GT premium. Regarding the procedure, I perused the comments included in the service manual. There will be a short, three-second warning sound when you start the engine. When the parking sensors aren't working, there's no indication on the dashboard. As soon as I shift into reverse, the dash parking sensor switch light starts flashing. The module will be able to communicate with my scanner. The eight error messages that point to malfunctioning parking sensors are visible to me. Always all eight. They reappear the second after I scan them to remove them. From B1B36-14, we get the numbers 38–52. I would want to enquire about previous encounters with this particular issue and potential solutions before I begin to investigate the wiring of each sensor. Also, have you ever noticed that these modules need to be reinserted or reprogrammed? The aftermarket scanner I'm using isn't powerful enough to handle that task. Any advice would be much appreciated. All the best with your time!

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God, I really should learn to proofread, Viofo. Autocorrect is the devil.

The voodoo is fascinating, so I like it. Finding a way to attach the back camera when the roof is lowered is my only concern at the moment.

even in 2023

I was hoping you might suggest a dashcam that will work with our convertible. Due to screen real estate constraints, I would want it not to be overly invasive. It would be ideal if it could be hardwired in and could face either the front or the back. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I was going to, but then I measured the area to be worked in and the various connections to the + and - terminals, and I let my neighbourhood handyman figure it out. I fail to see why it would be necessary to link the new battery to the vehicle, even if it was mentioned. It took around thirty minutes to get it on. That cubicle is incredibly cramped.

My 2019 E63s' primary AGM battery was just changed. After last August, the stop-start rarely works anymore. Just 500 yards after starting today, it kicked in. Fluids are clearly not heated to the point where they can be seen below. When the green square with the A sign appears, it means that stop start is functioning properly. Got the traffic lights working again, but then it stopped working again. Starting next month, I will get the capacitor replaced.

Several online sources have informed me that the engine compartment provides access to a cover located behind the light. Even after a quick scan, I failed to spot one!

After I warmed them up, they were nearly transparent. It's annoying, but it's condensation, not a leak.

You can't tell the two camps apart.

My 2017 SL lights are giving me the creeps due to the dampness. The weather (cold!), but maybe not quite. Although it began in the corners, the haze has now spread across the majority of the lights. I read several notes on this and thought that maybe turning on the fan heater to warm the lights will help. At first, I thought I had it figured out, but as soon as I turn off the heat, the condensation returns. I suppose water evaporates to petrol when heated, but it doesn't necessarily go out of the light. Is it absorbing additional moisture as it cools down again? Worse worse, I have just received a notice stating that my "intelligent" lighting is malfunctioning. 🤔 The installation, which involves removing the front bumper, doesn't appear to be easy, but I saw that there are second-hand units available for around £350. My fingers are crossed that this will go away once the weather warms up, since it might be a summer/winter phenomenon. Views, pls 👍🏻

Fitted a new gasket to the cover and spark surround. Those wheels on this engine aren't circular! The worn-out rubber felt a little compressed and worn out! The acoustic cover is still removed, allowing me to inspect the coils for any additional leakage. All right, tightened down properly. While I am waiting for new spark plugs at my son's place, I must say that the current plugs are still in quite decent condition. His employment with Niterra (formerly NGK) is fairly practical.

I discovered that all four of the spark plug recesses were filled with old engine oil after yesterday's oil and filter change. Unexpectedly, the coil and plugs were functioning well (and continue to do so) and there was no engine misfire; I suppose it had to have been there for some time. Cleaned it all up & picking up a replacement cam cover gasket set today. I really hope the cover isn't cracked and that's the only thing it is. Are there any other common reasons for this problem?

Thanks for making it available "over here"; I've sent this tutorial to several folks on the other side since, as far as I can tell, W203 (and similar) diesels have a thermostat problem; I had to replace mine in the first year after purchasing the vehicle. It was well worth the little investment because it not only got the engine up to temperature but also raised mpg from 40+ to 45+, making the heater operate.

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Weak 12V power source. Less time to charge due to chilly weather and shorter journeys. Probably the dealer will swap it out for you.

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