Geek2232

The new bumper lacks it; the old one has many damaged wires.

Indeed, I had an accident, which necessitates the replacement of the bumper. Could you kindly provide the location of the control unit and the method for verifying it? What are fuses? Do front and rear sensors own distinct control units? Down supplied images of the redesigned bumper. Thank you

I apologize for any lack of clarity, since English is not my first language. I replaced the whole front bumper. Following the installation of the bumper, all components were reassembled; however, an error has now emerged.

Hello, after replacing the front bumper with a second-hand one (which is undamaged), many faults have emerged. The new bumper was already equipped with its own wiring. The rear component works well. Fuses? Do you have any suggestions, please?

I believed the dealership was being deceptive, as they are sometimes inclined to do. I have personally disabled the OTA updates, opting to do them myself and let the subsequent owner to benefit from them.

It is likely they were referring to software, since automobile manufacturers often do not let end users to upgrade firmware due to the risk of rendering the vehicle inoperable.

Thank you for the feedback, everyone. Given the low miles, the petrol alternative seems to be the preferable choice. It is reassuring to understand that the diesel alternative remains viable with occasional use and maybe the addition of an additive every few thousand miles.

Seeking a substitute vehicle for my wife and contemplating a 2020 D180 Evoque variant. Her customary round trip spans 20 miles at speeds ranging from 40 to 60 MPH to see her children and grandkids, maybe include a stop at the store. Approximately four times every week. Approximately 4,000 miles annually, with a MOT and service conducted each year by my local independent shop. Do these kind of excursions pose a risk for DPF issues?

Have you initiated a reboot? Could you have inadvertently disrupted the wiring when working on the parking brake assembly? Alternatively, you may get the Bimmer tool application and purchase either a Vgate iCar or Veepeak BLE interface from Amazon. This investment will amount to around £55, which I believe is a worthwhile expenditure. The system will scan all the accessible electronic control units (oecus) and provide a detailed analysis of any detected fault codes. This information may provide valuable insights into the problem at hand, most likely including all relevant aspects.

Have you operated the vehicle? Several individuals prefer not to leave until the vehicle has been driven a little distance and then restarted.

That is great effort - I appreciate it! Does this plug directly attach to the rear of the cigarette lighter socket, or is it located on the other end of the lines and hidden under the dashboard? Ideally, I would want to have the socket to which it connects, in order to create a 'breakout' y-cable.

Suggestion! Although I have reservations about modifying the original car wiring, I am less concerned about making modifications to the wiring of other components I have installed. The CarPlay adaptor uses a wire harness to get power from the supply of the COMAND head unit. I will examine the different ratings, but it is possible that the power supply may accommodate an additional amp or so in order to provide a 5V 3A output for the two USB connections. That is an alternative if I abandon my search for a direct connection from a fuse box.

Indeed, both cigarette lighter plugs are available as alternatives, since they possess a much larger current rating compared to the average power consumption of USB devices, which is the only purpose for which I use both ports. However, I really dislike the idea of altering the original wiring, even if I have access to the high-quality Wago connections. If I am able to locate the same plug (along with a corresponding socket) that is used for the cigarette lighter socket, I will gladly construct a y-connector in order to access that circuit. In the past, the cigarette lighter sockets were simple, usually equipped with spade connections at the rear. However, in modern times, the design has become much more advanced and intricate.

Oh, were you enquiring about the possibility of the connected connection supplying electricity to the charging puck? Regrettably, I failed to take into account the previous experience I had with creating a similar tray for my W221. In that case, I utilised the USB connection in the CarPlay adapter to supply power to the charging puck. However, I discovered that the power output was not sufficiently high. Additionally, due to the wireless energy losses, the charging rate was unable to keep up with the phone's power consumption while simultaneously running Google Maps and Spotify.

Affirmative. The device offers the option of a wired connection via USB, although it functions well when connected wirelessly. It first connects using Bluetooth and thereafter uses WiFi.

I was seeking a method to attach my phone to a wireless charging cradle. After installing a CarPlay adapter in my car, I realised that I don't need the phone to be visible or accessible on the dashboard. Therefore, I decided to place it in the centre console cubby. I covered it with the plastic lid of the cubby, ensuring a clear view from the sun roof and windscreen. This positioning should provide adequate satellite reception for the satnav. I created and fabricated a tray using 3D printing technology to fit snugly into the central storage compartment, positioned in a suspended manner like a mezzanine structure. The recess for the phone is specifically designed to accommodate the proportions of my iPhone when it is enclosed in a silicone rubber case. Additionally, the magnetic wireless puck is securely attached using hot melt glue. The area presented several challenges due to its irregular dimensions - the width of the cubby narrows from the front to the rear, and the floor of the cubby has a significant slope. However, the outcome is a well-fitting and tight arrangement, which allows for the typical clutter in the area under the tray. The legs are affixed using pegs and secured with superglue. The connection does not need excessive strength since the tray is firmly trapped in position and cannot move horizontally. Currently, my objective is to locate a method to insert a USB port inside the cubby. I own a 12-volt adaptor that may convert power to twin USB ports. Now, I just need to locate a practical method to connect it via wiring. I have a strong aversion to Scotchlocks, and I would rather get a power supply straight from a fuse box, for instance, by using a piggy-back fuse. I anticipated locating a fuse box either on one side or the other of the dashboard, but I only have one in the engine bay and one in the trunk, and neither of them is suitable for efficiently routing a wire to the central storage compartment. Meanwhile, I just connect the charging puck to an adaptor and insert it into one of the cigarette plugs.

https://www.centricparts.com/media/technical_bulletins_docs/Centric_and_APC_Technical_Whitepaper_B1-Warped-Brake-Disc-8-2018_1.pdf

The described operation does not physically distort the disc, but it might result in the formation of a residue that leads to vibrations when the brakes are applied later on. These vibrations are often mistakenly attributed to a warped disc.

It seems that the feature may not be compatible with my situation, since I consistently keep the start-stop function off. Alternatively, it is possible that the option just pertains to the electrical components. 🤔

Unfortunately, the item had already been checked. I decided to uncheck it and then check it again, hoping that this action would resolve the issue.

Hello... yep... just that! 😀 ... I had been using our previous vehicle during the whole week with a conventional key, thus I completely forgot about this one 😀 ...I understand...excellent...that sounds ideal...thank you very much 👍

Greetings, everyone. I am not enthusiastic about this engine. The functionality remains active even after the keys are removed. Does anybody know whether there is a method of averting it? Today, I was at the tip and inadvertently neglected to deactivate the motor using the designated button. I became aware of its continued operation only upon seeing the illumination of the lights. The model of the car is a 2019 520i. Thank you.

This is not the first occasion on which I have seen such behaviour from them. Last year, I examined a CL600 at that location (before the Superb version was released). It was priced at the higher range, but the photographs and description seems to justify the cost. Upon arrival, it was seen that the paint on the bonnet was broken and blistered, there were missing trim pieces, and the vehicle's history was incomplete. I see no use in proceeding and courteously refused. When I provided an explanation, they inquired as to why. In response, they promptly offered to reduce the price by £4,000 if that would pique my interest. That completely deterred me from them permanently.

Thank you for all the responses. The automobile has essentially remained inactive on the road for many years, but it was nevertheless started at least once every couple of months. Approximately a decade ago, the system was taken to a professional who conducted a thorough overhaul of the input system. This included performing a smoke test and replacing any seals, O rings, or gaskets that were deemed questionable. In addition, there were new leads and plugs installed. However, it is uncertain if the cap and arm were replaced. Thus far, the operation of the device has consistently been flawless upon the act of turning the key. The problem arises in cold weather, when the engine fails to start initially and stalls completely if you apply excessive power. However, after a period of 2-4 minutes, the issue resolves itself and the engine works smoothly. There are no issues with the idle; it remains precisely in the expected position. Perhaps it would be worthwhile to consider replacing the cap and rotor.