DreamWeaver

I am seeking to replace my MAF sensor. The present sensor I have is a Bosch 0928400504, and I have discovered a new one which is the Bosch 0928400529. Is coding required after the replacement? The make and model of my automobile is a 2005 EU4.

Vehicle identification number: WBABS72040PR55929 I conducted a thorough investigation and discovered a map sensor manufactured by PIERBURG. However, I am uncertain whether it is compatible with my vehicle, since the original sensor is labelled as BMW.

I have not found any information on the part number of the MAP sensor.

Hello everyone, I am now in need of an authentic MAP sensor for my 2005 e46 320cd. Unfortunately, I have been unable to locate any genuine options. Can anybody provide assistance or suggestions? I am unable to locate the specific component number.I am currently using a BMW-branded sensor, but I am unable to locate an identical replacement. Can anybody provide assistance? Thank you.

Thank you for sharing your article. It is always intriguing to learn about the thoughts and actions of others about their autos.

Although you mention that the fault code is still being shown, I would want to confirm whether the EML light remains on. It is possible that the fault code just needs to be cleared.

If webuyanycar offers £3.5k, then the car's value must exceed that amount. As previously said, I recommend exploring online platforms such as eBay to find a product priced at £5,000. I assume you are already aware, but exercise caution about fraudulent individuals on such networks.

One must pay in order to participate. Does insurance not provide coverage for windscreens? Why is it necessary to replace that?

Thank you for the photographs 🙂 Was the throw out bearing the only cause of the leak in your situation?

Thank you for your response. It seems that this might possibly be the cause of the leak. Removing the rear timing chain cover sounds like a significant task. However, considering the amount of effort and money involved, it may be worthwhile to replace the gasket while doing this procedure.

Thank you for your response. However, I have discovered that the shaft on the engine side does not pass through the "oil sump" as I first believed, and the same applies to the gearbox side. There are only two possible causes for an oil leak within the bellhouse: the "slave cylinder" and the crankshaft seal.

Hello, I am replacing the flywheel, clutch, and release bearing. There was a significant oil spill in the bellhouse, making it difficult to establish whether it is just hydraulic fluid, or a combination of gear oil and engine oil (I could not detect the fragrance of gear oil). I want to ensure that I achieve complete accuracy while doing the task. While it is clear how to replace the crankshaft seal, is there also a replaceable seal on the intermediate shaft, both on the engine and gearbox side? There is a red ring visible in the picture. (I neglected to get a photograph of my personal bellhouse, therefore the one I am using is sourced from the internet. My bellhouse was covered with filthy oil.)

Greetings The gearbox, whether operated manually or with a hydraulic accumulator, requires the use of gear oil with the specification VAG > G 052 171 A2. The hydraulic oil (VAG > G 004 000 M2) enters the hydraulic accumulator.

Indeed, even after a duration exceeding six and a half years of ownership of my C43, I continue to have a strong aversion towards speed bumps, humps, and any other road obstacles. Regardless of the velocity at which I traverse these impediments, the undercarriage of my vehicle consistently makes contact with their summits, resulting in discomfort for my posterior and financial repercussions. The presence of potholes may be quite dangerous. I am contemplating using Uber, but the one factor preventing me from doing so is that it is the only location where I can really appreciate my music. I was exposed to Jesse Cook and since then, I have remained steadfastly devoted to his music.

However, it must be acknowledged that the centre van is visually appealing.

It is advisable to get the glass s/h and then choose a suitable individual to install it. However, it will not be cost-effective. I conducted an impromptu search on the eBay platform for E Class glass, selecting the read passenger door glass for £55 and the quarterlight glass for £50. The cost of the doors alone amounts to £200. The rear side glass was priced at £130, while the rear hatch was priced at £80. The price for the lot is £540. In addition, appropriate.

I have a strong preference for automobiles with two doors, to the extent that I seldom consider cars with four doors. Currently, I own three cars with six doors, all of them are black. I am clearly influenced by the concept of CDO.

I'm glad you have resolved the issue. When I encountered the issue, it was unfamiliar to me. I believe it was related to the regenerative braking system or something they are trying to improve for my satisfaction. Both alternators seemed identical when seen side by side, save for the presence of a clutch in one of the pulleys.

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The process of ageing and cognitive decline Apologies, but I had a similar issue last year. I had an incorrect alternator on my vehicle, but I am unable to recall the codes. Which alternator did you replace?

I chose to reinstall the original EGR valve and successfully replaced it without experiencing the coolant leak that occurred in earlier tries. Unable to locate the proposed pipe by BlackC55, I cleared the 14CF00 code and took the vehicle for a spin. The car performed well with no warning lights, showing a considerable improvement from its former condition. After checking my code reader and finding no codes, I drove for about half an hour. The car started reverting to its previous state, feeling like the brakes were being applied intermittently. This made driving uncomfortable and challenging. The car seemed fine for a while but then started jerking several times before I reached home. When inspecting the code reader, no 14CF00 code or warning light was found, indicating a possible issue with the ERG system. It seems that the actuator code is not visible and may need removal for identification, which may be inconvenient. That's my update, making a little advancement.Cheers

I appreciate the information and guidance. The EGR is a refurbished Wahler part. The second part of your reply is beyond my current knowledge. I am unsure of the location of the EGR pipe in the front or the throttle flap. I will examine the pipes tomorrow during daylight to see if I can understand them and determine if it is something I can attempt. Thank you

When replacing the batwing yesterday, I heard a faint but regular beeping noise in the engine. The noise was not loud and could not be heard inside the car. It sounded like an alarm going off repeatedly. I couldn't pinpoint its exact source. It's possible that something is unplugged.

I borrowed the batwing loaner from a vehicle of comparable age. However, after initially improving, it eventually started surging and bucking again. It was worth attempting and it has eliminated a possibility, which is beneficial. Thank you.