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I fail to comprehend the tuner's peculiar behaviour.

It is necessary for DDE to be aware of exhaust pressures.

Surely that plays a pivotal role in the engine's performance?

If the sensor is not there, you should be able to fix the problem by replacing it.

My car doesn't seem to have turbo, and I received a fault on the diagnostic, so I wanted to get everyone's opinions. I have a 28EC00 code for the pressure sensor, which means the sensor is missing from the metal pipe. The tuner installed the bolt, but I didn't pay attention to it.By the way, I removed the dpf, EGR, swirl flaps, and stage 1 from my car as well. However, the only part that still gave me trouble was the pressure sensor. I'd be grateful for any advice you could provide me.

If I were to guess, I'd say you should talk to a Xentry representative about it.

This man has the same problem, but he hasn't explained how he fixed it.

Much obliged for the response. There was clearly not enough water to cover the intake area... I'm almost certain it isn't hydrolocked. Underneath these vehicles, you could find the ECU, which might be damaged by water or some wiring.

Appears to have severed communications with the engine ECU. Assuming you didn't hydrolock the engine after plunging through floodwaters....

Hi there, everyone. Excuse me, but I was hoping someone could lend me a hand. The other night, I was commuting for two hours in my 2017 Mercedes C63S while the weather was absolutely horrible. As soon as I over a couple small puddles and entered the highway, a red battery warning light came on and the power went off. I park on the side of the road and turn off the engine. Once again, the car wouldn't crank or start. I charged the battery after arriving back home, but it still hasn't worked. It appears to be operational in every other way, but it simply refuses to crank. On the dashboard, I am seeing a few of warnings... Electronic rear axle differential lock is not functioning, traction control is not working, etc. I ran a quick scan and received a few codes... There is an issue with communication with the "combustion engine" control unit (U010031). We are unable to receive the signal. U010029 There is an issue with communication with the "combustion engine" control unit. Something is wrong with the signal. Is anyone else familiar with this? We would really appreciate any assistance you can provide.

This was also on my R231 refresh. The Voltage Converter was entirely submerged in water as well. Various Headlights (A2319067900, A2539051601, etc.) for £1440 Costs £192 for a brand new voltage converter plus the cost of diagnostics, labour, a small amount of wiring, and a connector. The water intrusion is of no concern to MB's used car warranty.

It finally dried out in the past few days, which is a relief because I had a similar issue on one side. According to some online research, the trick was to put the little desiccant bags that come with certain electronics inside the electronics bit (where they wouldn't be seen from the outside). Where did you find R231 ILS headlights that are in good working condition and priced at £350? I couldn't find any sets for less than £1200.

Several online sources have informed me that the engine compartment provides access to a cover located behind the light. Even after a quick scan, I failed to spot one!

This happened to me twice, but each time the problem was with the LED light controller (water ingress), not the headlights themselves.

After I warmed them up, they were nearly transparent. It's annoying, but it's condensation, not a leak.

Since it's implausible that two bulbs would undergo that at the same time, it casts doubt on my theory of a clogged breather system.

You can't tell the two camps apart.

I was wondering whether there was some sort of breather device built in to let out any trapped water vapour. What makes these lights identical? A thorough STAR diagnosis is required to determine the source of the ILS not working message; nevertheless, considering the quantity of condensation, it is highly probable that the levelling motor has failed. I wish you the best of luck with the solution.

My 2017 SL lights are giving me the creeps due to the dampness. The weather (cold!), but maybe not quite. Although it began in the corners, the haze has now spread across the majority of the lights. I read several notes on this and thought that maybe turning on the fan heater to warm the lights will help. At first, I thought I had it figured out, but as soon as I turn off the heat, the condensation returns. I suppose water evaporates to petrol when heated, but it doesn't necessarily go out of the light. Is it absorbing additional moisture as it cools down again? Worse worse, I have just received a notice stating that my "intelligent" lighting is malfunctioning. 🤔 The installation, which involves removing the front bumper, doesn't appear to be easy, but I saw that there are second-hand units available for around £350. My fingers are crossed that this will go away once the weather warms up, since it might be a summer/winter phenomenon. Views, pls 👍🏻

I will keep it in mind for the next time; I feel like it was probably just a false lock. Is that to say that I was successful in releasing the crank bolt upon startup? It is appreciated.

Will not make contact with valves when cam locks are engaged and camshafts are at an angle where valves are not open sufficiently to touch. By default, when you lock the crank, you should attempt to turn it in both directions. If it only turns in one way, it's about 180 degrees out of whack; a false lock occurs when the crank catches on a ridge on the flywheel.

The dowel slid into the hole with a satisfying thunk, so I'm very sure it's in there now; I appreciate your response. I didn't feel any resistance or contact with anything, so I'm hoping no valves were hit.

You can only insert the dowel pin into one of the flywheel's holes. You should be good to go if you lock the cams and insert the flywheel pin so that the small handle almost touches the bellhousing. To secure the 18mm socket wrench in place, give it a little wiggle, but be careful not to apply any force. You can tell when the flywheel pin is in a recess rather than a hole because the small handle on the pin is far from touching the surface of the bellhousing. When the flywheel pin is placed, there is one way to turn the crank such that all of the pistons are even. While trying to locate top dead again, I hope you didn't bing any valves.

Excuse me, As I work on the timing chain, I would appreciate any guidance. The cams are locked, so I removed everything—which I mistakenly believed was the crank—and left the car for a few days to wait for the kit to come. I was going to tighten the crank bolt today when the crank suddenly spun as I began the initial torque! I either failed to lock the crank properly or accidentally knocked it at some point, so the cams remained locked and never moved. I'm confused about my next move. Now that I've locked it correctly again and the pistons are all the same height, how can I make sure the time is right and I'm not spinning out of control? Thank you once more.