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This presents the most recent figure for A642 092 03 01.

Thank you; it indeed appears peculiar. I previously enquired here and was provided with the original part number. If anyone is able to dig up the part number, my VIN is WDD2074032F073442. It appears peculiar that I would acquire an aftermarket component rather than a genuine Mercedes product.

The aftermarket units accommodate the heater element component that can be unscrewed from the original equipment manufacturer unit. F026402103 is equivalent to Bosch Mahle. The part number of the aforementioned unit is KL490D. The referenced part numbers are A642 092 03 01, A642 090 2052, A642 090 1752, and A642 090 1852.

All the photographs I have located of the part number you reference as the "original p/n," A6510901652, exhibit the identical pipe configuration and electrical connections as the part you have acquired (A6510902852), which is expected as the latter is a supersession of the former. Consequently, I assert that the fuel filter for your engine is neither an A6510901652 nor an A6510902852; therefore, you will require an individual with access to the relevant systems to ascertain the correct filter part number based on your vehicle's VIN.

My husband is performing maintenance on my automobile for the first time. Having acquired the Mercedes part numbers and procured the components, he is currently engaged in the task. However, the gasoline filter is incompatible, as indicated by the photograph. The Merc component you observe is part number A6510902852, which I have learnt supersedes the earlier part number A6510901652. We were unable to locate that part number for purchasing, therefore we acquired the superseded version. The electrical connection is not identical. I contacted Newcastle Merc on eBay, providing my VIN to acquire one of their service kits, but they have not responded. Therefore, procuring the components independently. Have I accurately acquired the exact part number, or is the superseded information misleading? He has disengaged the clamps and can observe "MAH," concluding that it is an MAHLE unit. The service history indicates that this has not been altered since it was modified by Mercedes in 2014 at 17,000 km. Please assist me.

Thank you very much.

Greetings, Once everything is secured and tightened in the service position at 40 degrees TDC, the timing is finalised. Once the timing is accurately established and secured at the service position, namely at 40 degrees TDC, the vehicle can be initiated from any position; it is not necessary for it to be at 40 degrees to commence operation. To ensure piece of mind, I typically rotate the tools many times to confirm they return to the service position, allowing for an assessment of any slack in the timing chain. Upon initiating the vehicle for the first time, I also engage and disengage the ignition momentarily several times to facilitate the buildup of oil pressure and enhance oil circulation. Additionally, refrain from revving the engine; allow the idle to stabilise autonomously. Please provide several photographs. 👍

Greetings, I have successfully done the task. I utilised the timing tool, ensuring that the timing remains accurate as the cams and other components were secured. Now that I have completed the assembly, my sole inquiry is the appropriate position of the crank for starting the vehicle. The service position was at 40°; I presume it should be at 0° to initiate the vehicle?

This position necessitates a considerable understanding, particularly about temporal configuration. I strongly advise reviewing Tasos' videos numerous times before to attempting. The crank pulley must be positioned at 40 degrees, and the piston in cylinder 1 (bank 1) should be at its apex; this is the initial step to confirm that the cylinder is at its top dead centre (TDC). To determine when cylinder 1 is at its highest position, remove the spark plug and carefully insert a clean rod through the spark plug hole to measure the distance. The timing tools simplify the task by eliminating all uncertainty. Simply affix the tools, which will secure all components in position from the camshafts and assist in aligning the phasers. If you are somewhat inexperienced and have not undertaken this task previously, I strongly recommend entrusting the job to a respected mechanic for your piece of mind. I have a friend who made a mistake and subsequently damaged valves. This video about timing is excellent.

should be able to assist, having recently completed this task on his M156

Greetings to everybody, I have just finished repairing my camshaft adjuster plates. I ultimately completed only one. I secured the cameras with the tool and reassembled everything. In what position must the motor be to initiate engine start-up? I estimated 0° TDC. Thank you. I am a newcomer, possessing a 2007 E63 with 79,000 kilometres.

Indeed, I installed these when I replaced the entire suspension a few years prior. I sincerely hope this knocking is due to a little issue, but it increasingly appears to be related to the subframe mounting points. This vehicle does not justify the expense of the repairs.

They appear satisfactory, my friend. BMW has issued a preventative solution for mushrooming. If you are maintaining the E46 aesthetic, consider that they are inexpensive and consist of a pair of plates positioned between the turret tips and the bolts (similar to a strut brace, but lacking the central brace that connects the two).

I examined my strut tops and do not believe they are distinctly mushroomed. Perhaps marginally. I placed a ruler on them, and there is a tiny curvature; I am not if this is typical.

Affirmative. Inspected them yesterday. One was recently substituted.

I will examine it today and provide updates with photographs.

Once all components have been replaced, including bushings and strut top mounts, my subsequent recommendation for an E46 would be to verify the absence of mushrooming on either strut tower, as this could elucidate the pronounced knocking on one side.

Have you examined the wheel bearings?

2003 BMW 330d Sport Touring, 6-speed manual gearbox, about 149,000 kilometres. I have been pursuing a persistent knocking noise in the front end for over a year and have explored numerous sites for solutions and recommendations. I changed the entire front suspension, including the bushes and both inner and outer ends of the rack, approximately 10,000 miles (3 years) ago. Recently inspected, and they remain structurally sound. Recently replaced the lower control (lollipop) bushings. I have recently replaced the rack with a refurbished one. Recently substituted the shocks and top mounts with Sachs, as I intend to sell the vehicle, although this alteration appeared to have no effect. The steering column link was removed and appears to be in excellent condition. Today, I detached the drop links and circumnavigated the block; the knocking persisted. I am aware that it is not associated with the anti-roll bar in any kind. I also navigated it over several curbs cautiously, and it appears to be more problematic on the front left. All components were torqued upon installation and subsequently re-verified. The only components on the front that I have not changed are the engine mounts; however, the issue does not appear to be related to them. Do you have any recommendations? (apart from incineration, I am inclined). I sincerely hope it is a little issue and not related to the front subframe mounting points. I intend to sell the item, but it is resisting my efforts. It seems to possess an awareness of my intention to sell it.

Indeed, I have had a similar issue previously with the holding clip detaching, necessitating an expenditure of at least £40 for lens replacement. It is advisable to warm the lens with a hairdryer to facilitate the flexibility of the plastic; attempting removal at low temperatures is ill-advised.

Exercise utmost caution; I have undergone the removal of both to accommodate LED lamps.