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It's a spark plug gaske that's leaking from the cam cover.

In that circumstance, I'd expect to see a lot of combustion gas exiting. Perhaps the oil could even be redirected? Probably a cam cover that's leaking.

As far as I'm aware, there is no English word that adequately describes the shape of the spark plug recess gaskets, therefore I used the word "round" to describe them. Well done!

Fitted a new gasket to the cover and spark surround. Those wheels on this engine aren't circular! The worn-out rubber felt a little compressed and worn out! The acoustic cover is still removed, allowing me to inspect the coils for any additional leakage. All right, tightened down properly. While I am waiting for new spark plugs at my son's place, I must say that the current plugs are still in quite decent condition. His employment with Niterra (formerly NGK) is fairly practical.

Because they squeeze each round gasket around each plug, I would assume that whoever changed the plugs last didn't torque the spark plug nuts down correctly at 11nm (I think). The oil will seep past the gaskets and pool around the plugs if they aren't snug enough.

I discovered that all four of the spark plug recesses were filled with old engine oil after yesterday's oil and filter change. Unexpectedly, the coil and plugs were functioning well (and continue to do so) and there was no engine misfire; I suppose it had to have been there for some time. Cleaned it all up & picking up a replacement cam cover gasket set today. I really hope the cover isn't cracked and that's the only thing it is. Are there any other common reasons for this problem?

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Sure, I'd be happy to have a look if you were closer. Maybe someone in your neighborhood can suggest a place that won't take advantage of you with their parts cannon.

I also checked out your Facebook profile. What a shame your twin isn't a Chester resident. You seem like the ideal individual to provide me a hand.

Your kind words of guidance are greatly appreciated. Near Liverpool and Chester, I am. The first place I went was to a BMW expert. I was offered the option to purchase a new DPF or have it removed for the pitiful sum of £700.

The air plausibility could be caused by a multitude of causes. If I were in charge, I'd make sure there are no obstructions in the tubing that measures pressure before the turbine. Not even the turbo would be replaced at this point. In a perfect world, you'd be able to use Ista to aid in diagnostics; by the way, whose nation are you in?

Greetings, everyone Since I'm new to this website, I apologize in advance if this is posted in the incorrect area. As a result, I am completely distraught and hopeless. My 2016 BMW 318d Touring serves as both my personal vehicle and my mode of transportation when I provide end-of-life care as a practitioner and paramedic. When my car was chilly, it began to hesitate, jerk, and stall around two weeks ago. The automobile exhibited none of the aforementioned issues (only when engine was cold) after it was warmed up, and its pulling power was identical to the day I purchased it new. In any case, I was outside a patient's house when it stalled three times and the alarm for the drivetrain turned red. It was determined by a mechanic to be the DPF and an air plausibility code after I had them investigated. A mechanic I took it to for an inspection found no problems with the DPF, but the air intake breather hose was drenched in oil and broke apart in his hands. Two days after I swapped it out, the red drivetrain light went out and was replaced with a yellow light, which indicates reduced performance. Thankfully, I no longer experienced any symptoms, hesitancy, or uncertainty. After two garages (I appreciate you sticking with me thus far), Halfords diagnosed an air leak and told me it was my turbo, but the repair cost £1650, which is out of my price range. Apologies, but I'm not a mechanic. However, I seem to recall reading that the boost hose could pop out due to excessive boost pressure. So as not to appear to be an absolute moron, I only nodded. They claimed it would be a coin flip as to whether it was the turbo or not. I hate to beg, but after a terrible week of worry, I've been to three different garages and could really use some reassurance. No matter how much I wish I were mechanically inclined, the truth is that I am not. On the other hand, I observed that, similar to the previous pipe, the charge pipe that leads into the air intake had fresh oil surrounding its junction (image attached). Back smoke is nonexistent No odd "whistling" coming from the top Exhaust (before the warning light becomes red) It would be really appreciated if you could lend a hand. Air and DPF plausibility codes are being displayed. In exchange for medical advice, I will gladly trade mechanical advice 😉. Once again, I'm really grateful.

I switched it out, and now everything is working well. Every word you said was correct. Much obliged.

Used them on a wide variety of vehicles, but only ever had one BMW.

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Much obliged. To double-check that, I'll also grab one from the breakers. Is complete failure a possibility with them?

In this case, I'd bet on the swap.

Greetings everyone There are a couple of hiccups that require fixing, but overall, I got a great deal on a beautiful E61 BMW. The driver window switch is the first thing I need to fix if I ever want to use the drive-through 😂 Let me tell you where I am: Even though it doesn't work, the switch does light up. The passenger door switch raises and lowers the passenger window, while the rear two remain fixed (perhaps because the driver's switch had disabled them). By pressing the lock/unlock button on the keychain, you may adjust the height of all four windows. Both of the electronic folding mirrors in the vehicle are fully operational. No LIN communication to the switch block is the reason for the 93CB error code as reported by INPA. The driver's door card has obviously been removed at some point; the top light doesn't work, and the lock appears to be fused in the up position, even though the car locks and unlocks without a hitch. I'm going to give this a shot: To check whether it helps, unplug the mirrors. To find the source of the short, follow the door's cables. Is anything needed or am I heading in the correct direction? A heartfelt "thank you" to everyone.

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Saluti e benvenuti. My car actually made a difference because it had clear interiors. So, the other extremity of the country! My mom's family is from Milan....

You deserve all the credit for keeping your MB looking so beautiful, since I adore her.

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